Orion Motor Tech Clutch Pedal Fix, Compatible with 1987-1998 Ford F150, F250, F350, F450, F550 Clutch Rod
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I believe I used the master cylinder on a Ford F350, but I believe F150, F250, and F350 used the same master cylinder.
It doesn't make a difference whether you're trans or not. The clutch pedal arm is where it is attached. I'm pretty sure it'll fit on a bronco. A ranger's pedal assembly is likely to be similar.
3/8"
Yes. My 93 F250 7 has no issues with mine. 3 IDI (I've been having problems with that bushing for years.) At the most inconvenient times, I've always failed). The clutch master cylinder in both of your vehicles is the same.
Selected User Reviews For Orion Motor Tech Clutch Pedal Fix, Compatible with 1987-1998 Ford F150, F250, F350, F450, F550 Clutch Rod
"Step-by-step instructions" step" and then go over everything again! Ok. I was planning on making a "how to" video, but I've never done anything like that before, so I'll write as detailed a review/instructions as possible to assist others. br>WARNING: THIS INSTALLATION IS NOT FOR THE WEAK OF HEART. br>To remove the clutch control lever, which is "press fit" and requires a small pry bar to work it back and forth until it is removed (mine was closer to 18mm and was tight as hell). The slave cylinder rod is being cut. I tried hacking it open with a hacksaw, but it's hardened steel. It's so tough that it's tougher than the clutch lever made of hardened steel. Because of wear, mine was about half eaten through. So. I used a worn cutoff wheel (so that it could fit into small spaces). On the slave cylinder, I cut VERY close to the "ring. " It took some filing to get it to fit into the heim sleeve because the factory made it "belled out" near the ring. br>It took a lot of effort to remove the factory pin. I used a grinder on the factory weld and it actually drives out from the side opposite the pin; once it's out, you'll need to drill the hole out a little to use the supplied bolt. br>When it came time to reinstall the clutch lever, I simply made sure that "all the way out" was in the right spot as I tightened the clutch lever press fit back into place(a little at a time). br>I hope that this information is useful. I have a good collection of mechanic's and shop tools, and it took me about 1. From beginning to end, the process took 5 hours. br>Finishing Thoughts: The clutch feels a lot better now. There will be no slop in the future. I just finished this and haven't driven it yet, but I started the truck and rocked it forward/backward to get a feel for the clutch. It's already a big step forward!.
Overall? Easy 5 stars because it eliminated all slop and play in my clutch pedal assembly, as well as some friction. My pedal now has a buttery smooth feel to it and is a breeze to operate. br>br>I'd installed a new clutch slave/master combo from luk, and the oem plastic bushing had promptly broken. There was no extra pressure from a high performance clutch because I had a factory-style luk clutch. Even so, the plastic continued to crack. br>br>I've had this heim joint setup for three years that Orion sells for three dollars. It's been 4 weeks and it's far superior to the original equipment. The most difficult part was removing the ring from the master cylinder's stock pushrod. I also ordered a new oem Ford lever and punched out the pivot stud after grounding the weld off the stud. I still had to drill a hole in the part to fit the Allen bolt that came with it.
br>1. There are no instructions to be found. br>2. If you have a plastic end on your clutch push rod, this will break it off and leave you stranded. This should only be used with metal push rods. If yours is made of plastic, you'll have to replace it with an all-metal master cylinder. It's difficult to come across them.
3. All of the modifications to your push rod must be done while the master cylinder is still connected. Remove the master cylinder by unbolting it and pulling it through the firewall, leaving it connected. It's difficult and risky to try to remove the push rod from the master cylinder.
4. Make sure the new push rod is at least 1/16" longer in length than the old one. If you don't, the new joint will bottom out and break the neutral/safety switch. Because the rod is slightly longer, you'll need to index the lever you drilled the pin out of one or two spline teeth back.
5. You'll need to remove your front seat if you want to be comfortable and safe while doing this. br>br>Your pin may be too worn in some cases, in which case you will need to make this adjustment. It's possible if you follow my instructions carefully. Best of luck to you.
Ford KIT - br>br>Ford KIT - br>br>Ford KIT - br>br Pull the clutch arm away from the bolt and scribe a line on the assembly so you know where the splines should line up when reassembling it. This ensures that the clutch is calibrated to work right away and that you aren't left guessing where it should go! br>br>I would highly recommend this to anyone who has a sloppy clutch because it makes shifting much easier and less work!.
If you're doing it right, you'll need a new one of those lever arms, as well as a drill to remove the existing pin and replace it with a bolt. (Using the old lever arm is problematic because tightening it to the pedal assembly the first time cuts grooves into the metal, and there's no way to ensure a tight fit if you try to reuse it. ) Beats my old solution of fashioning a busing out of brass to fit the worn push rod opening!.
It worked out great, no more stupid clutch linkage plastic clips breaking. I used a cut off wheel to cut the end of the shaft off while it was still in the truck because it was easier that way than trying to get the linkage out of the master cylinder and the arm on the pedal. I took it off and ground the stud flush with the side of the arm and punched the rest of it out because there was no need to bore the hole out bigger because the bolt fit perfectly. Now that I know it won't pop off again, I feel a lot better. The photo shows where the rod should be cut.
It took me less than an hour to install, but it wasn't quite as simple as some users claimed. br>br>As an addendum to the other installation guides, here is a list of additional resources: br>br>I found it easier to cut the eye off by unbolting the master cylinder from the firewall. br>br>After putting it together, I still had a lot of slop until I adjusted the arm by rotating it one or two splines in the pedal linkage. br>br>After the adjustments, it was as if I had a new clutch or truck! This is something I should have done a decade ago!.