ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle
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A 6 quart capacity will require an 8 oz bottle, so adjust accordingly.
I was hesitant to use it in my 4L60E, but I had no choice when the leak became severe and I couldn't fix it. I only used one bottle instead of the recommended two, but what a difference it made: the leak was completely stopped in less than half an hour. I was completely taken aback by the experience. blown out of the water Thought it was snake oil at first, but it turns out to be real. Then, as if that wasn't enough, there was this. The dreadful transmission began to shift more precisely. a completely unanticipated side benefit It's been almost a year since the leak stopped, and now it's starting to return. I wouldn't hesitate to treat it again. It can't go overboard because it can't. I'll be adding the recommended two bottles to swell the seals this time. This product is a rare diamond in the rough when it comes to snake oil. So, in response to your question, it appears to work in 4L60E transmissions.
It was tested on a 2014 Audi A6 with a supercharged 3.0 liter engine. 109,500 miles on the 0T. I couldn't figure out where a very small leak was coming from (backside of engine, not the timing chain covers, possibly the oil filter housing). Anyway, after installing it and driving about 300 miles, the leak appeared to be stopped for a few months. I later sold the car for other reasons, but I'm satisfied with the results. It gave the seals a new lease on life.
I used it on a full synthetic Audi A6 2014 with 109K miles. I was able to stop a small leak. It is something that I would recommend.
Selected User Reviews For ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle
AT- said Scotty Kilmer. Because it's a polymer, 205 is watery and harmless. A watery polymer was something new to me. It's referred to as a plasticizer by ATP. A plasticizer is a solvent that loosens the bonds between molecules in a polymer, making it more rubbery. Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether appears to be the culprit in this case. Internal components, according to ATP, will not be harmed. It works with conventional and synthetic oils, ATF, gear oil, power steering fluids, and hydraulic oil, according to the website. It has a 3-star rating. For 5 seconds, a chart of recommended amounts with three columns of seven figures each is shown in a minute video. Do they really think you'll be able to process that in 5 seconds? br>br>There are two lines of print below the chart for those 5 seconds, but they are grayed out and covered with ads if you pause the video. That segment had to be replayed several times for me to be sure I understood it. "Due to blending properties with oil, recommended use is approximate," they say. If slightly overtreated, there is no risk. "br>br>This implies a risk, despite their assurances. It appears that ATP did not intend for the warning to be seen by the viewer. br>br>In the video, the representative opens a hood, pours in a bottle of AT-X, and closes it. Close the hood after dialing 205. The concentrated solvent in the oil pan caused the paint to come loose and clog the screen on an Amazon customer's oil pump after he did so, according to the customer. The video didn't recommend running the engine to mix the solvent, even though it isn't a new product. Be wary of the buyer! br>br>I'm 35 years old, and I've been married for 35 years. year- When the old car was started, it would occasionally smoke. Valve seals were most likely worn or shrunk. Spark plugs and O2 sensors were harmed by deposits from oil additives. AT- 205 would be a lot less expensive than replacing the seals, but I was afraid of AT- 205 has the potential to over-extend seals, causing premature wear. ATP recommends 6 ounces (180 ml) for 4 quarts. It is estimated that the oil will have a 4. 7% solvent is a number that is used to describe the amount of solvent in I decided to experiment with 100ml (approximately 2. 7%) and then add the remainder if needed. I made a measuring cylinder out of polypropylene. It measures accurately, pours as neatly as a funnel, and is easier to clean than glass. To mix it, I went on a quick errand, then went on another quick errand the next day. Then I cleaned the grime that had accumulated beneath the leaking valve cover gasket. Years have passed. br>br>Months have gone by. I haven't seen or smelled any oil smoke because the gasket hasn't leaked. br>br>I had a 25-year-old riding mower. Chaff accumulated on the cooling fins, which were hidden beneath the housing, due to an unseen oil leak. The cooling air flow was disrupted as a result. It smoked a lot when it first started up. I wasn't sure if leaking rubber seals were to blame for either issue. br>br>I put 25ml of AT-X into the mix. About 1% of the oil in the crankcase is in the crankcase is in the crankcase is in the crankcase is To combine it, I mowed for a few minutes. I cleaned the oil and grime off the following day, and the engine has remained clean and hasn't smoked on startup in the months since. br>br>If I ever have a leaky machine again, I'll start with 0. 5% in order to reduce the risk. I'm sure I'll be able to come up with something else. br>br>Recent changes: br>br> Scotty was correct in his assessment of AT- To keep plastic parts from deteriorating, use 205. The hinge on my positive battery terminal protector is made of "living plastic. " It had stiffened to the point of not being able to stay in place. There are a few AT-related uses. It was made better by 205. The duct from the MAF meter to the throttle was a major source of concern for me. Over time, it had become brittle. With all those hose fittings, it seemed impossible to make a new one. I've put AT- to work for me. Three times 205. It only takes a little to make a big difference. I put about a teaspoon in a cup and use a cotton ball to apply it. I also use it to clean the hoses on pneumatic equipment. I check after a few days because plastic absorbs it slowly. Although it is easily absorbed by the skin, research has revealed that it is safe (pharmacologically inert). Another update: br>br> Oil changes are recommended according to engine hours by the manufacturer of my mower engine, but no time intervals are specified. Two years had passed since I had waited. The oil felt and smelled fine during that time. I had a lot of oil smoke on startup two weeks after the oil change. I had assumed that any solvent that was not absorbed by the rubber had long since evaporated from the old oil. It had apparently remained in the oil, renewing the old seals on a regular basis. I had some on hand to supplement the new oil because I'd been using it sparingly.
My story: br>br>This product was purchased and used in my 2000 Toyota Camry in May 2013. A cloud of blue was causing me problems. Regardless of the temperature, I always got white smoke when I started the car. I assumed the valve stem seals had worn out over time, but there was no way I was spending that much money on a 13-year-old car. year- I had an old car, so I figured a $10 additive would be a good bet. I ordered it from Amazon, and when I got home from work a few days later, it was waiting for me in the mailbox. I popped the hood and tossed it in the crankcase because I was tired and hungry. On my way to work the next day, I figured it would blend in fine. The smoke dissipated as a result of this. Bingo! The ten-dollar solution was successful! br>br>Three weeks later, I was driving home from work when the oil light came on while I was at the grocery store. Not a flashing light like when the oil level is extremely low, but a constant light. time on. Normally, I'd have it towed to a repair shop to avoid any engine damage, but I decided to finish my journey and drive home slowly (about 5 miles). I began driving my truck to work while applying my best shade-creating techniques. I put my tree mechanic skills to use by replacing the oil pressure sending unit and performing other minor checks that I discovered on Google. I couldn't find anything, so I had it towed to a non-profit organization in my neighborhood. For a diagnostic, take your vehicle to a Toyota dealer. They dropped the oil pan to inspect the pump because there was no oil pressure at all. The pickup screen, it turned out, was completely clogged with paint from the oil pan's inner lining! (Toyota, a minor rant: What made you decide to paint an engine component? Every other oil pan I've seen is either bare or zinc-plated. ) Six hundred dollars later, I was back up and running, though they couldn't guarantee there hadn't been any bearing damage. br>br>Given the fact that Re- Because seals are designed to react with rubber seals, and paint has some chemical similarities to rubber, I'm guessing it loosened the paint in the oil pan. This would not have happened if I hadn't just thrown out the Re- Seal it in and let it sit for a while without running the engine; I blame myself for not following the directions to the letter, with a small slice of blame (or is that shame) going to Toyota for their careless product design. br>br>Today, I noticed this product as a Lightning Deal, which reminded me to write this review. It's worth noting that it's now January 2017, and the smoke problem hasn't returned in the nearly three years since I first used the Re- My car has a seal in it. I would recommend this product, at least in terms of motor oil, as long as you follow the instructions implicitly (I don't have any other experience with it). I would not hesitate to purchase this product again if my 1996 Toyota Tacoma had a similar problem.
With all of the positive feedback, I was confident that this product would be effective. I put AT- I put 205 in my automatic transmission and it worked for 4 days to stop the leak. I went on a fishing trip for a few days and returned home to find a puddle of transmission oil on my garage floor. The seals inside the transmission had broken loose, according to the transmission shop where the jeep was flatbed. I kept it a secret from them that I had put AT- I dialed 205 in the transmission because I was curious about their diagnoses. They called the next day to invite me to the shop before beginning the transmission rebuild. When I arrived at the shop, the transmission had been completely disassembled into hundreds of pieces. They claimed that the seals failed and began to leak because someone added a leak additive to the oil, which expanded all of the major O-rings. In the housing and on the shafts, there are rings. This is not something I would recommend to someone who intends to keep their car. This is a $35 AT- I spent $2500 on a transmission rebuild because of the 205 additive! If you use this product, you will regret it!!.
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