Arterra WF-8955-MBA 55 DC Amp Replacement Main Board Assembly

We called the next large town's big RV shop and asked if they could get this part for us, but they said it would take two weeks, so I went on Amazon and found this exact replacement part and ordered it. In Colorado Springs, where we were headed next, we chose an Amazon "locker" at a Whole Foods Grocery. This happened late on a Friday evening. and the part arrived on Monday before 2 p. m. We went grocery shopping and then went to the excellent "locker" to get the part by simply entering the "code" Amazon had emailed to our phone. Suddenly, a magical door appeared. Here's where we came in: we connected the wires exactly like the ones we'd taken out of the connections on the failed unit. and there you have it! PERFECT REPLACEMENT and a fantastic solution to a difficult problem WHILE ON THE GO! Although there is a minor difference in appearance and design, the unit is an exact replacement. The cooling capacity of the new unit has been improved. compared to the failed unit's fan shield This should, in my opinion, extend its useful life. ) Thank you, Amazon. and a big thank you to Alterra! (I feared he was an aftermarket vendor. ) It's a genuine WFCO replacement part, to be sure. ).

Valeria Andrews

| Oct 09, 2021

If you own a 7300, you should read this. This can be used to replace any 7300 series converter, according to the parallax website. Many reviews claim that it only takes ten minutes to complete the task. If you have a 7300 and only purchase this motherboard assembly, you will not be able to use it. If you want to save time, purchase the entire assembly, including the converter casing. It'll set you back an additional $40. It'll take some work to get this one to fit in the same box as the 7300 converter. Here are some things to keep in mind if you're replacing a 7300 with just this main board assembly: Once you've removed the case from the power center, you'll need a drill to remove the pop rivets on the top. For the screws that hold the 7300 in place, you'll have to drill out one of the old mounting shafts. The WFCO blends in with the rest of the crowd. Once the broken 7300 is removed, you'll need to re-drill the case's mounting holes. To install the new converter, you'll need pop rivets and a rivet gun. To get the wires up to the fuse box panel, you'll need to drill a half-inch hole in the top of the case. Additional positive (big red) and thin green ground wires will be required. They aren't long enough to get to where they need to go. The top will be pop riveted back on after the wfco converter is installed in the case. Because you drilled it while the top was off the case, it will have a new hole to route the three small wires up through. The positive wire is long enough to reach the negative terminal on the batt. You'll need some extra of the big red wire to get it to the fuse block where it connects. Let's get into the technical details: The wiring is fairly straightforward; it does not come with instructions, but you should be fine if you simply duplicate what was in there with the old 7300. It's just a matter of screwing the old case back into the power center and putting the front back on at that point. A useful test/troubleshooting diagram for the 7300 series converter can be found online, and it can also be used to test the new unit. If you're not sure what's wrong with your 7300, consult the guide. It's extremely useful for determining whether or not your 7300 converter is damaged. The new one does fit in the 7300 box nicely, and it performs better than the 7300 in terms of functionality. If I could go back in time, I would spend the extra $40 and skip all of the work required to make this unit fit and function.

Stanley Boyle

| Jul 09, 2021

The equipment is an exact replica of the original. I'm not sure why the first one failed, but I'm hoping this one will last longer. I'm not an electrician, so I was a little intimidated when the original failed. Unsure how to diagnose the problem, I decided it was cheaper to throw money at the problem than to take it to an RV repair shop, which would have probably charged me three times the cost of this unit. Only five wires are required for installation, so pay attention to how you remove them and they will be simple to replace. I strongly advise using a surge protector because many RV parks are deteriorating, and I believe this unit blew up because an older RV park failed to maintain their electrical boxes properly. I don't have proof, but I have a feeling it's true.

Malia Jensen

| Apr 25, 2021

I purchased it after discovering that the one in our R- We were on a trip when Pod 179 failed. It was simple to install once I was able to obtain it (it was shipped to a friend and delivered to our location). Everything was fully functional again after the installation. Because it is a replacement for an identical unit, there are no instructions; all that is required is to note which wires go to the terminals when disconnecting (after removing power from both the AC and DC sides). The wires from the new unit are then connected to the terminals from the old unit. Connecting the heavy red and white wires to the circuit board is the most difficult part; it's easier to remove it first to get the wires in place, then replace it later. A square- A tip screwdriver is also useful because a Phillips screwdriver will not be able to loosen the screws with enough force. The square-shaped To tighten stubborn screws, use the tip. br>Due to the failure of the previous unit, I gave this one four stars. At the very least, it's still under warranty, so the old unit is on its way to Arterra to be inspected and replaced. I couldn't send it until after we got back because we were on the road. In the event that this happens again, we'll have a spare.

Bentlee Pitts

| Nov 23, 2021