Mr. Gasket 7872 Fuel Pump Safety Switch
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This is a two-input switch that can be activated by pressure or 12 volts. The starter circuit should be powered by a 12v source, as this allows the fuel pump to run while the engine is starting, and the oil pressure keeps the switch closed after that.
The original oil pressure sensor in the VW Beetle had a similar one. I'm afraid I won't be able to help you with that - I bought three, but they all failed after a few weeks, so I threw them out.
Selected User Reviews For Mr. Gasket 7872 Fuel Pump Safety Switch
Its contacts switch at 1 to 2 psi, not the 15 psi that Mr. Gasket/Holley recommends. br>Amazon won't let me post the specifications, but you can find them on Holley's website. br>br>This is the third switch I've purchased in an attempt to find one that will turn on a warning light when the temperature drops below 15 degrees Fahrenheit. 30psi. br>A warning at 2 or 3 psi is pointless because your engine has already been destroyed. br>br>The majority of these pressure switches don't even list their pressure rating, and those that do appear to be inaccurate.
I tried the Holly version, but it leaked after only 5 minutes, so I had to order another. When it arrived, it appeared to have a 15psi cutoff, as far as I could tell. I installed it, tested it, and warmed up the engine to operating temperature before bleeding the cooling system (removing the air). The sensor has not leaked like some of the others, according to reports. If the motor stops running (stalls out in the event of an accident on a race track), I needed one of these to shut off the fuel after a few seconds. One thing I'd recommend, but keep in mind that these are just my thoughts: Use a pressure switch to activate the primary side of a relay, then use the secondary side of the relay to power the fuel pump. If you have a high-power fuel pump, I'd be concerned about damaging the contacts, so I use a prime button to bypass the switch rather than putting it in the path of the entire current. br>Chris.
A VW Beetle was fitted with one. It worked fine for about a month before failing (no power to the fuel pump terminal when oil pressure is present). I replaced it with a new one. After one month of work, I decided to leave. A third, brand-new one has been installed. Straight out of the box, it didn't work: After the engine has been turned off, the fuel pump continues to run. All three switches were properly connected, and the fuel pump was in good working order. The oil pressure is adequate - Oil pump has been replaced, and the oil has been replaced as well. br>This switch appears to be a shambles. Instead, I'm using a fuel pump relay, which provides an electrical rather than a mechanical solution for the fuel pump safety requirement. br>Ordering this item will result in a waste of money. I was extremely disappointed.
There are no issues. As a precaution, this was included in my installation. It worked perfectly with my fuel pump relay harness kit and I had no problems with it. Although it was a little too long for my application, I was able to make it work. On the first try, the vehicle started. 1984 GMC S15 Jimmy 4X4 2. br>br>1984 GMC S15 Jimmy 4X4 br>br>1984 GMC S15 Jimmy 4X4 br 8L - > Engine swap to a 4L.
Quit the first time you're under duress. When the motor ran, the starter pulled in. After about an hour of proper operation, the solenoid began to engage.
This unit functioned properly, but it was extremely difficult to access on a 1985 Vette.
It does exactly what it says. Three wires must be connected once the ignition, start, and fuel pump have been threaded into the NPT tee. I would have given it five stars if the instructions had not been destroyed when I attempted to remove them due to the packaging's design.
It's universal if the threads fit, and it's used for an old boat motor application. It has both normally open and normally closed modes, which makes it suitable for the majority of applications I've encountered.