IRHAPSODY 12V DC 250 Amp Continuous Duty Relay, SPDT 5-pin Heavy Duty Starter Relay, Split Charge Relay Switch - 5 Terminals High Power Relay
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It makes no difference, as previously stated. It doesn't matter which way they're wired, they'll still work. The majority of relays work in the same way.
Yes. In North Carolina, I make use of it. There will be no change in the current rating.
Although I'm not certain, the product description only lists two modes, both of which are normally open. Negative connection energizes one mode, while positive connection energizes the other. On my boat, I use this relay as a normally open, momentarily closed relay to power diesel fuel stop relays. My fuel stop solenoids were controlled by a momentary stop button on the flybridge before I installed the relays on the engine. Due to the voltage drop along the long wire run, this setup frequently failed. My problem was resolved after I installed the relays.
Selected User Reviews For IRHAPSODY 12V DC 250 Amp Continuous Duty Relay, SPDT 5-pin Heavy Duty Starter Relay, Split Charge Relay Switch - 5 Terminals High Power Relay
There will be no long-term trials. Took the load off the ignition switch, so I bought this. I bought a backup because it seemed a little too good for the money. Initial bench testing indicates that the activation coil is close to the 80 Ohm mark (76. On one hand, there are four players on one hand, and there are 76 players on the other 6 on the other hand), putting it in the 2-person category. When the engine is running, the power output is in the 5 watt range. If/when it fails, I'll attempt to update.
Although it appears to be a good product, it is not designed to be used on a continuous basis. The relay burned out in about a week after it was installed as part of a remote kill switch system and the ground connection from the remote switch was not broken. br>br>It's probably fine for other applications, but it's not what I was looking for. Having said that, I did remove the outer cover and inspect the internals, and everything appears to be in good working order. All of the physical components appear to be in perfect working order, so one of the wires must have been burned.
This product was used with my 2017 Polaris RZR XP 1000 to turn on and off power from a blue sea 12 circuit fuse box/distribution box with a total capacity of 100 amps. If you intend to add a lot of electronic accessories to your UTV or vehicle, this will make the installation look cleaner and more professional. br>br>I've put this product through its paces in the elements for a few rides now, and it's performed admirably. It is something that I would suggest.
br>For my inverter application, I need about 175 amps and 2/0 cable with 5/16 crimp lugs that won't fit with the relay's post spacing. I'm curious as to how they manage to get 200 amps into and out of the relay. I could grind the lugs down and space them above one another, but that reduces the lug's ampacity and raises the risk of lugs moving and shorting to the neighboring post. br>br>I thought some pictures of the internals would be useful. br>br>I was able to ground the 2/0-millimeter wire. I'm down to 5/6 lugs, and if I can tighten the nuts and secure the cables, they won't touch.
It connects to my electric power steering pump and functions properly. We'll have to wait and see if it sticks around. My maximum running current is 40 amps, so it should be fine. The connections were sufficient for my needs, but not for 120 Amps. I'm an electrical engineer with experience with relays and control devices who writes this. A relay's life will be cut short if it is operated at its nameplate current.
Other relays I've used have melted the wires and the relay when the cooling fans are left on a little longer. To power a 30-watt light bulb, use a 120-volt relay. With a draw through relay contacts far below its rated amps, the 45a circuit performs admirably. For many automotive circuits, this is an overkill, as it actually UPGRADES what the vehicle manufacturer should have done.
Because the nuts on the studs are very loose, the stud threads are very shallow, and the stud seat is very narrow, you'll need terminals that fit very tightly. I don't like returning things, so I'll figure something out. I'll make washers to the exact size I need for a good seat on the studs, and if necessary, I'll rethread the studs to a smaller size so the nuts don't strip the threads off the studs, which will cost me more in labor than I paid for it. This is an item that I will not purchase again. After some consideration, I have decided not to use this relay and will instead use the tyco bosch 74960, which is what I should have used in the first place.
These relays were purchased to avoid a voltage drop on a long wire run from my boat's flybridge to the fuel stop solenoid. The fuel stop solenoid draws a lot more current than the relay. Because of the low current draw, I was able to power the relay with existing wiring from the flybridge. I was then able to use a larger gauge wire and a shorter distance to rewire the positive wire through the relay to the fuel stop solenoid. The flybridge engine stop switch now reliably activates the fuel stop solenoid. So far, everything seems to be going swimmingly. Because I don't do automotive or marine electrical work professionally, it's difficult for me to assess the item's value or quality. In comparison to other relays I looked at during my search, the price seemed reasonable.
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