Victory Lap FDA-03 Alternator Repair Kit
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You should be able to cross reference the numbers
My 93 F150 xl with the 4 had no problem with it. This motor has a 9l capacity.
There is no way to tell. This did not fit my 1989 tempo, and I was a little disappointed
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Selected User Reviews For Victory Lap FDA-03 Alternator Repair Kit
All their needs were taken into account! It has been more than a month since I purchased this kit, and the alternator on my '89 Mercury Cougar is still functioning. saved my life! financial situation has declined dramatically, so I am always looking for ways to save money. This kit was extremely useful for me, as it was less expensive than getting a dealer to fix it. The kit included everything I needed to rebuild my alternator to brand-new condition (in other words, I did not have the funds to afford a professional repair at the time). It has even (Switches the alternators to the AC polarity ) which are bad for my brand and model because the voltage is converted into direct current. There is even a little capsule of thermal paste attached to the inside of the housing to help mount the regulator. A socket of one inch is required for the main pulley - Nut) and I took things very slowly to be sure I was doing it correctly. In the beginning, most of the work was straight forward (releasing the serpentine belt, undoing the required connectors and bolts, etc. ), but pulling the alternator apart was a bit difficult. With 230,000 miles on it, my poor baby was a bit crusty and impossible to work on. It's time for me to remove the bolt. instructions kept me on track even though some details applied to different models of alternators for my car. Nevertheless, in the end, I was able to work through any ambiguities and accomplish my task. My questions were answered by Line, and I was supplied with the exact information I needed to move forward. stalled my progress was the fact that the Alternator's configuration wasn't quite as specified. As described, the front bearing was held in place with a plate and screws, but they were inside the housing and the armature kept them from being seen. After I had shoved the main bearing into the case, I learned that the bearing was installed using a bearing press, which meant I needed to have access to one. A new bearing is installed by inserting the shaft through the bearing. In the end, I decided to just pinch the shaft and try and see if I could get it to move if I held it up. I only have myself to blame for this, since I should have used a plastic hammer or at least threaded the main pulley nut on the shaft until it was flush with the end of it. My solution ended up being to slightly mash the outer threads. It simply wouldn't hook onto the threads when it came time to reassembly. In order to park the thing, I had to walk to a corner We took the problem to the shop, and they fixed it astonished that a geek like me could actually rebuild an alternator on my own. They might have charged me an hourly rate for their amusement, but their amusement was worth it. )
Regarding the repairs inside Disassembling everything was the first step of the job, but reassembling it was even more important The slippery rings will be surfaced. (The copper circular surfaces on which the brushes ride. One of the old brushes had worn down to the embedded copper leads, while another was already beginning to score the slip-on plastic. You are ringing. (Finding the likely cause of the alternator the slip-resistant surface needed to be resurfaced To get the rings flat and smooth, it took a lot of work. Apparently there are some fast things you can do to automate this process, but I used several grades of sandpaper and did it by hand. One of the slip rings was very clean, but it still took a while to bring it down to a clear copper finish. While it was difficult to work with the one that had been scored, I pressed on, being careful not to bring the ring diameters too far apart. (Too late to be perfectly equal, I gave up. Since I did not have access to a bearing, let me just mention that I did not have access to By ignoring the forward bearing, I was able to save time. appeared to rotate as though it were smooth, with no slop or granularity. put back together, I decided to tighten the main pulley. While I did not have a socket to fit it, I tightened it as much as possible. A few months later, the re-evaluation began A new installation, a reinstallation The belt was the biggest problem. *By the way, the connection wasn't bad at all. Besides, I live alone and have no one to ask for help with that, and the last time I tied any belt was long before belt tighteners were invented. "The "cheater" I was using slipped off the end of my socket wrench as I was working on the belt and a pulley and I caught my middle finger between them. I had to struggle for a couple of minutes just to get myself out. Since I've been a life-long AAA member, I was able to contact them and get someone to come out and help me reinstall the belt. (It took both of us to get it back in, but AAA never charged me anything for it. *)
Starting my vehicle again was like attending a Moon Launch, but she was fired up in no time. The voltage was at 13/14 volts at idle using a meter as described, which was also found in the advert. It was expected that the revs would be higher, but they remained well within limits as intended. in perfect working order. )
I drove back to the corner garage and got my main pulley bolt tightened properly with an impact wrench, then It has been almost two years since that alternator was repaired, which means I have never had any problems with it. (The regulator, bearings, brushes, and rectifier were all manufactured perfectly. anyone who has some experience with auto repair, and is willing to put in the effort to complete the job correctly. Be sure to have a bearing press, a large socket or wrench to work with the nut on the main pulley, and a bit of stamina when It's all about the wax (on and A synthesized version of the real thing! to Victory Lap for providing a great kit and superb customer support. Thank you to Amazon for the low price and prompt delivery. The fall of things has already begun (Who says that?).
I couldn't afford to put in an alternator so I made do with just this way. I replaced only the voltage regulator and brushes, and I cleaned up the copper rings with sand paper until they were We're back to charging the way we used to. We have been in for a week and will update if things don't go well. There will be a day when I will install the remaining parts. Forged in 1992, the Ford F150 5 is a classic. A 10 o clock position regulator connector is installed on an 8L 80amp alternator.
Despite the fact that it arrived 2 days early, this repair kit was not faulty. In addition, it was a really great thing since our truck had a bad alternator bearing. All the parts inside the Ford Ranger have been replaced by my husband, so the pickup sounds and runs as good as it can for a 1987. The fact that he's happy makes me happy too. Please take note It can be tricky, and you might have to use some choice words in taking an alternator apart. The deal was great on Prime Day and a video on how to open it is online to help you.
If you don't know how to open it, watch the video online to learn a few tricks.
The part DOES NOT fit a 1993 Ford F150 300-series The six-cylinder engine. The item should have been compatible with Amazon, according to them. It cannot be used for 75 amp alternatives. The only way is to get 40 amps. Including this in the description would have been great. My four checks are complete!.
Kits like this one are useful in a pinch and likely will last longer than an alternator, but there is no way to tell for certain. Despite the kit extending the life of my alternator, it only lasted about three months before it needed to be replaced. Christmas just so happened to be the day when it was released. It took me a while to get home, but that is one bad present.
All the parts fit together correctly after the alternator was rebuilt, and the charging was within specifications. I have only one complaint about the pieces they were packaged in a way that said "Made in the USA" but most of them were unmarked and didn't seem to be of the same quality as the OEM parts. It will be interesting to see how things go, but this is a much better option than buying a rebuilt unit from the local.
Not all of the parts were listed on the product. When I got to the final step, where the rectifier is, I did not realize that it was missing. The other parts have fitted correctly so far, but I'd like to get this part before I can't return it. I cannot return the product any further, however, so I'd like this part to be sent to me. Thank you.
This is the hardest part. To solder, you will need a high-temperature iron, not an electronics soldering iron.
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