OTC 6007 Lower Control Arm Prying Tool
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In the photo, the tool is upside down. To move the control arm, slide the long, straight side over it, insert a pry bar through the tool's eye, and pry down. It's easy to understand and use.
This tool worked fine, but you'll need a 36-inch long pry bar to use it. 42" long.
Yes, and it's a fantastic solution. br>br>Tip: if you're looking for a unique way to express yourself, try using the words " Remove the sway bar bushing bracket bolts and hang the sway bar so you don't have to fight with the sway links when removing/installing the struts.
Selected User Reviews For OTC 6007 Lower Control Arm Prying Tool
As you can see in my photos, I was able to get my 36" large prybar through the loop. br>br>Simply hang it from the end of a control arm and push down with your prybar through the loop. br>br>*Note: This should only be used after you've broken the balljoint free from the steering knuckle with a pickle fork, a ball joint separator, or by striking it in the correct spot with a large hammer.
I just got this tool, and it'll be perfect for separating the lower control arms from the spindle. My opening is large enough to fit a quarter through with about a 1/8-inch margin of safety. I'm excited to try it out; as a professional mechanic for over 40 years, I wish I had this tool years ago.
The simplicity is elegant. Sometimes you come across a very simple yet subtly elegant solution to a common problem, and you think it could never work. You'd be completely wrong on this one. br>This is a problem that affects everyone in my field. When I can't pry down on this thing anywhere, where am I supposed to put this damn prybar to get this (strut, ball joint, axle) out? Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr It's also very straightforward and effective. You pass your bar through the loop on the straight end, which sits on the lower arm just behind or in front of the ball joint. That is all there is to it. Not kidding, that's the end of it. br>br>Note: If you're looking for a unique way to express yourself, try using the words "creative This will fit Mayhew's massive colossal prybar, which I believe is known as the dominator. It fits. br>br>It's cheap, it's a good brand, and it works. br>br>Why are you still reading your idiot hit buy now sheesh?.
This is a hard nut to crack. I couldn't figure it out when I first got it. I knew I'd need a pry bar, but there were no instructions with it. The technical mind kicked in right away the first time I used it, and it was simple and effective: get a long pry bar, strong rod, or pipe that is at least 1 inch in diameter. The length of the lower control arm is 5 times that of the upper one. br>Instructions
1. Remove the ball joint nut (or slacken it if there isn't enough room) and free up the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle as usual.
2. The hook should be hung from the lower control arm (the hole should be below it). The side you choose to gain more leverage will be determined by the shape of your arm, but it will work on either side if the third step is correctly completed).
3. Through the hole, insert your pry bar (or any other strong bar or pipe).
4. To prevent the pry bar from slipping, make sure the other end is properly connected to the inned part of the lower control arm.
5. Pry the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle by bending the pry bar handle downward. (If you didn't have enough room to remove the ball joint nut before, back it off all the way at this step until the control arm can be pushed down far enough. ) )
6. Maintain a downward force on the pry bar as you pull/push the steering knuckle away from the ball joint. Follow steps 2 through 5 to reinstall the arm to the steering knuckle. br>It's a one-time deal. There will be no more slipping with this man job! br>I was planning on purchasing the other tool, which is much longer and much more expensive, but I decided to give this one a try first. br>Buy it!.
BUY IT. Oh my gosh, I adore this. I'm getting requests from master technicians to borrow it. I work as an automotive technician for a dealership, so I understand how valuable time, strength, and the ability to avoid smashing ball joint boots are. This tiny piece of metal has saved my life numerous times. It saves me from having to ask another technician to move the strut/hub assembly out of the way while I dangle from the lower control arm about once a week. It's absolutely incredible. To be honest, I haven't tried it on a full-size truck yet.
Would be a five-star game if you weren't so careful not to slip. If I didn't have this tool, I'd wrap a chain around my arm and secure it with a carabiner, then put a pry bar through it at work. The same feature that makes it so useful (the tool's ability to slip right over the arm due to the open side) can also make it a slipping hazard. I'd say you're fine as long as you're paying attention.
S-steel (likely a high-strength heat-treated alloy) appears to be the finished product. A hook with a loop at one end. I just tried to install it on the lower control arm of a Toyota light truck (not a car chassis that had been modified to be a "crossover" or other "SUV" vehicle). The open S section is insufficiently wide. I believe that this would work on the vast majority of modern cars and vehicles that are built on a car chassis. I might keep it if I could figure out which vehicles it could be used on. It will be returned un-addressed if this is not provided. used.
I purchased this to use with my big kahuna pry bar when working on suspensions, particularly lower control arms. When exerting force on the control arm to remove ball joints, etc. , this unit is much easier and more efficient than using a chain. br>This unit is solid, and I expect it to last for many years.
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