uxcell Knock Sensor 22060-AA070 Replacement for Subaru Legacy Impreza Forester 1999-2000 for Subaru Outback 1999-2001
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Yes, it will happen. It instantly cleared my mother's code after I installed it on her 2001 Outback. That was a little more than a year ago, and it's still going strong.
This is a non-profit organization that was established by a third party. Original equipment manufacturer (OEM) part with a price tag of $12. It has no warranty attached to it. Simply go out and buy another. It's about a third of the price of a gas fill-up.
Yes, it is appropriate. Thx!
If you're not sure, check Amazon, but it worked for me in 2001. It should work on any model with the J25 engine from 1998 to 2007, but double-check. You can find a video on how to install it on YouTube.
Selected User Reviews For uxcell Knock Sensor 22060-AA070 Replacement for Subaru Legacy Impreza Forester 1999-2000 for Subaru Outback 1999-2001
My 2002 Forester was a slug; I bought it used and it never seemed to run right; we replaced the O2 sensors, catalytic converters, radiator, water pump, spark plugs, valve cover gasket, adjusted the valves, replaced the idle air motor, adjusted the throttle position sensor, and other items, but it never seemed to run right; it developed a knock sensor code, and my local auto parts store wanted $60 for a new aftermarket knock sensor; it developed a knock sensor code, and 50, installed it, and Scubby now runs like she should, with a smoother idle, better fuel mileage, and MUCH better acceleration. Try this simple replacement if your Subaru is a slow poke; it's the best bang for your buck.
When I double-checked Amazon for this knocking beauty, an opportunity presented itself. Instead of knocking on local parts suppliers' doors, I let Amazon knock on my door using this knock sensor. On the plus side, the knock sensor is in perfect working order, and the engine runs as smoothly as it ever has.
So far, everything is working perfectly! The knock sensor was causing the car to generate a CEL code. It would cost a minimum of $175, according to the shop. I did it myself for $12 and 5 minutes of work. The car definitely idles better and seems to have a little more oomph at the low end now that the check engine light has been turned off for two days. If anything changes, I'll let you know. br>br>If you search YouTube for how to change a Subaru's knock sensor, you'll find several videos. All you need is a 12mm socket and an extension, as well as a few helpful hints.
On a 2000 Forester 2, this is a replacement part. The only issue is that when replacing the bolt, it strips the hole, which is a common heavy-handed problem, as I discovered. I didn't want to take a helicopter ride. Due to the age and mileage on the car, the stripped hole had to be relocated to a hole to the rear of the original location that was factory threaded the same size (a quick and easy fix). JB weld was ineffective as well. Doesn't exactly fit with all of the surface in its original position @ 80 % but it performs well in this position with no ck eng light! These sensors are tuned to the engines harmonics, according to some information searches. As far as I'm concerned, as long as the feedback falls within the parameters required for the ECU to function normally and does not indicate knocking or enriching the fuel, I'm fine. The main point is this: At 210K miles, the engine is in good working order, with normal gas mileage and power. It was a wise decision.
First and foremost, the cost is astronomically low. Or, more likely, the price on this one is reasonable compared to the other $60-$100 brands. $80 is a blatant price rip-off! )br>br>It also works really well. )br>br> The intermittent CEL has vanished, and the engine has improved noticeably. It feels better than it has in a few years (which makes me wonder how long my old knock sensor was bad but not bad enough to cause a CEL). br>br>If you can undo one bolt and one plug and put them both back in, changing it is a breeze. It's essential to have a socket drive extension (I used a 24-inch one). It would probably help if you had small hands (about an inch). Unfortunately, I only had one of those items, so my hands were scratched.
I was annoyed by the MIL light on the dash, and I was spending weeks clearing DTCs for the knock sensor code. Knowing there was a problem with the sensor, I chose not to replace it due to the high cost of an OE part on my older car because there was no noticeable difference in engine performance. I eventually gave up and decided to live with the MIL light on until I discovered this aftermarket knock sensor for a reasonable price. I gave it a shot, and it appears to work just like OEM, with the exception that the MIL light hasn't lit up in over a month.
This is NOT a good replacement part for a Subaru Impreza WRX from 2002. The plug section in the middle has been switched around. In addition, I had to cut the old plug and solder it in place to make it fit. When I used to get a high voltage reading, I now get a low voltage reading. Erasing the code has no effect. This may or may not work for other cars, but it will not work for the Wrz. Simply put, oem is the way to go.
The check engine light has gone out, and the car's acceleration has greatly improved; there is no longer any hesitation when I press the gas pedal to get onto highways. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLT TOO MUCH WHEN INSTALLING THE NEW ONE. Snug is fine; you don't want to snap the bolt. Watch some videos, have a couple of extensions, and a 12mm socket for your ratchet, and you'll be fine. The price here is unbeatable; a local store would charge nearly ten times as much.
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