Carter P72165 Fuel Pump and Strainer Set
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That should be the case
It came with an all-inclusive fuel pump assembly, although the tank gaskets had to be purchased separately. I am very satisfied with how well the pump works.
Based on the information provided, this is the correct kit for your vehicle if you already have the stock
Selected User Reviews For Carter P72165 Fuel Pump and Strainer Set
This is 1989 Mazda B2600i by Mazda. A road trip of 294k miles should be considered as a challenge. I bought a new tank ($125) (which came with gasket and screws) (and be sure to check your door as the fuel tanks have "to" and "from" dates. A different tank was used for my date (to) and for the date (from). If you wish to clamp the fuel lines on the vent line, you can do that with the pinch -On the two fuel lines coming from the sending unit, you'll have to use screw style clamps (I had a leak, so I had to get a 1/4 drive extension to tighten the clamps. There may be a need to lower the tank a bit if the fit is tight- Keep the upper nuts on)
I had to grind the screw heads off on the sending unit since they were rusted solid (being very careful not to damage anything because you can no longer buy them). The tubes had been cleaned after I removed the sending unit, and I noticed a daylight (hole) in one of the tubes near the end where the hose goes in. The solution is With screw clamps on both ends I covered the hole in the tube with a slightly larger piece of fuel line slid down the tube and down the fuel line. As a result- The hose from the steel fuel line on the frame rail to the sending unit could be connected to the sending unit For examples of bolt patterns in the sending unit, see the following It was not possible to match the bolt patterns for the sending unit, the tank, and the gasket. The solution is Place as many screws as you can (I got three) after which take a sharpe and mark the areas that need to be elongated. As a result- Take the unit out again and use a dremmel type bit to elongate your holes (not by much, but to prevent cross threading- Not as tedious as it sounds). The pump installation procedure is as follows Please take note Even though it is a smaller pump, it is installed the same way as the original. It is straight forward to install the pump after you have removed the sending unit. Carefully remove the old one, taking care not to strip the screws holding the power and ground wires in place. This pump came with a bung for the butt connector, not an eyelet. The eyelets were used to hold the string- I had just the right amount of wire. With a heat gun, I removed the hard plastic from the eyelets, and then I used heat shrink as per the original instructions. In addition to the original grommet, the pump came with a second grommet that fits in the sending unit. When installing the pump, make sure you put on the strainer first. You may use this as a Obtaining some of the parts (if I could find them), such as the fuel vent valve, fuel filler neck, and grommet took about a month- For your information. * Replaced the fuel filter in accordance with the recommendations of the fuel pump installation. Wishing you all the best and having a great day! I appreciate you- It is now.
This component is in my 1988 Toyota 4Runner and is working flawlessly. A fuel pressure reading of 18 pounds was recorded. The weight of the machine used to be poor before, but is now 40 lbs. Having no errors, and running perfectly.
I am using it on a 1989 Mazda RX7. The article failed to mention that the hardware has to be altered in order to fit the new design since it is an upgraded model. It is difficult, but it is well worth it.
A great fit for a 1984 Toyota pickup fitted with an EFI engine. It was written in the instructions or marked on the pump as to what polarity was.
This fit my 89 3. It was easy to install and worked well. There were few modifications to make it fit into the fuel pump hanger, just like a new fuel pump does.
The price is better than the fit.