GM Genuine Parts 215-603 Secondary Air Injection Pump with Bracket
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That truck won't be able to fit it, but it will fit anywhere else!
Selected User Reviews For GM Genuine Parts 215-603 Secondary Air Injection Pump with Bracket
After diagnosing the problem, it was determined that the problem was with the air pump in my 2006 Chevy Cobalt. It arrived quickly and was installed after I bought it through Amazon. Two months later, the 40a fuse for the pump blew because the pump internal became short, and a short occurred, and the pump stopped working. When I unplugged the pump, no blown fuse, but when I plugged it back in, the fuse blew. Checked the relay, got a diagram, checked the conductors, and then replaced the relay. Only 2 months of use were possible before this part failed. I take exception to the fact that it is easy to swap (15 mins), but it They honored the warranty for 12 months and 12K miles on the part and sent me a new part and prepaid return label within two days of contacting them. On Amazon's end, the service is excellent, on GM's end, it is horrible. Unfortunately, there are no aftermarket options yet, so we are stuck with this poorly engineered part, which is the most common cause of failure.
An installation that's a bit tricky I spent about half a day on it (including installing a valve). You must replace the air injection valve along with the pump if there is water dripping from the old pump. Otherwise, the old pump will result in the same results as the new If you are installing a new pump, you should clean the hose to get rid of any remnant water. The fuse box may also need to be replaced with a 40A fuse. When using electrical connectors, dielectric grease should be used, while thread anti seize lubricant should be used.
It's an OE part for a 2008 Cobalt. The car has 55k miles on it. A code P0411 has been issued. Make sure the fuse for the 40-amp section is plugged in. There is a clear marking on the back of the fuse box cover that says "Air Injection Pump". I am not certain what it says. You don't want to blow too many of these bad boys since they're green and cost about $7 bucks. In any case, if it has blown, there's a pretty good chance you require The job is easy to do in a lift. If you do it lying flat on your back as I did, it's a bit more challenging. This valve can be found between the A/C compressor and the A/C compressor assembly on the front of the motor block Starting the race from the front. I find disconnecting the air tubes to be the most challenging part. If it is best for you, I suggest disconnecting the electrical connector, then the 3 bolts, and then dropping the pump until you can grasp the pipes with your fingers, squeeze and pull, and it will be gone. When you find water dripping from the old pump, then you can be certain that it's dead. The EGR (air diverter) valve is probably also bad since your engine is getting a lot of air. You will not be able to use your new pump for very long if you don't replace it soon. I applied a very thin coat of grease to the air tube connectors at the time of installation, and they locked back on with a click, signaling that they're properly seated. Please re-read The three mounting bolts should be installed with a little anti-theft lubricant The threads should not seize, the electrical connector should be plugged in with dielectric grease, and so on The rest is up to you. By the way, do not forget to install the new fuse when you need.
The computer did not recognize an aftermarket brand at first, but I put in the original. I was able to do it this way.
We put an old rug under the car, put the ramps on, and, after a little time and some patience, we were able to change the rug. It took about an hour and a half to finish. It was challenging for me to disconnect the hose connections, of which there were two. Because the starter was close by, I disconnected the battery first and then I disconnected the power source, too. After sprayed the hose connections with a little WD40, and with some prying with a screwdriver and extra elbow grease, I was able to remove An outside plastic clamp slides over the pump connection. We removed that with the WD-40 and a bit of prying. Once the power cord is disconnected, it's just a matter of replacing three mounting bolts and putting the unit in your hand. It didn't take long for the new one to fit. I have held the mounting bracket in place and hand tightened the 3 bolts, then made the 2 hose connections by pushing them For it to stay on, you have to use a bit of force. Finally, I tightened the 3 mounting bolts and connected the power connector, and my work was done By ordering it here on Amazon and doing it myself, it cost me much less than it would have if I'd bought it elsewhere. By the way, when I started the car for the first time after finishing the job, the check engine light had gone out. Thus, it was the cake that was icing on the cake.
Despite the broken nature of the part, we installed it anyway and it worked fine, but we had to tape the clips together.
We are going to need to replace the part again after it malfunctioned.
Breakage of the anchor holding the electric connector to the pump body. In order to tie the frame to the connector, I had to attach it to the Work is being done on the unit. I recommend that you be honest about the condition of the part.
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