Dorman 917-142 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX)
Score By Feature
OveReview Final Score
Product Description
Questions & Answers
Yes, it will work; I used the rear bracket as well as the side bracket with the hole in it on both sides of my bike. Every day, I work on these trucks, and the same problem of random bolts breaking off the manifolds persists. Since installing these parts 50,000 miles ago, I have had no problems with them. And because I'm sick of ripping the heads off these GM trucks, such as Tahoes, Silverados, Suburbans, and Escalades. The brackets made by Dorman come highly recommended by me. There are two types to choose from. One mounts to the back of the cylinder head, while the other can be placed on either side.
We are unable to provide a clamp for the 5. 7 motors.
Only 4 can use this. 8, 5. 3 and 6. 0 engines
This is only for 02-. 1500 avalanche avalanche avalanche avalanche ava
Selected User Reviews For Dorman 917-142 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX)
Tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, This was installed in a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD, but it should fit any LS engine (5. 3, 6. 0, 6. 2 etc). I had no idea this was a common problem with LS engines until my manifold head bolts sheered off. Chevy, despite having a known issue, continues to use inferior manifold bolts. It's so common that Dorman has devised a band-aid solution to save you hundreds of dollars in repairs. br>br>First and foremost, I'd like to clarify the part numbers and installation locations, as some of the reviews are inaccurate. Depending on which of your manifold bolt heads sheared off, you'll need to use one of two brackets. Dorman 917-Dorman 917-Dorman 917-Dorman 917-Dorman 917- 107 (has a completely different appearance) - The rear of the driver's side or the front of the passenger's side are the locations to be installed. Dorman 917-Dorman 917-Dorman 917-Dorman 917-Dorman 917- (This item) 142 The driver's side rear or the passenger's side front are the two locations to be installed. The reason for this is that the heads are essentially the same but have been rotated 180 degrees. So make sure you get the right part. br>br>Now it's time to put it together. Because BOTH of the rear manifold's bold heads had sheered off, I needed both of the part numbers listed above. However, this is the installation for the passenger side rear (917-) of the vehicle. 142). If you get this part, you're in luck because it's a lot easier than the 917-. 107 The heat shield on the manifold prevents the bracket from being mounted, but it's so close to fitting that it's annoying. You'll need about 1/4"-1/2" of material. The heat shield is 3/8" thick. I cut it off with my compressor cutoff tool, which made quick work of it. You could also use a dremel. I suppose you could use shears, but the location is a bit awkward. After that, it's just a matter of bolting the bracket down (I used anti-seize) and torqueing it to the instructions' specifications. Then, using high temp loctite, install the third bolt that holds the presses against the manifold and torque to spec (I believe it was 18 lbs-ft-lbs-ft-lbs-ft-lbs-ft-lbs-ft-lbs-ft-lbs-ft-lbs-ft-lbs-ft-lbs-ft-lbs- ft). br>br>It was significantly better after I finished both sides and started the truck, but I gave the bolts to the manifolds an extra one flat turn past the recommended torque just to give it a little extra sealing. br>br>It took about an hour to complete the entire process. The majority of the time was spent figuring out how to cut the exhaust heat shield in the most efficient manner possible. The bracket is installed in about 10 minutes after that is cut. br>br>Because the tick tick tick is no longer there, the brackets are still functional. The brackets are a bit pricey (around $30), but it's a lot cheaper than removing the head. br>br>Because the tick tick tick is no longer there, the brackets are still functional. The brackets are a bit pricey (around $30), but it's a lot cheaper than removing the head.
On my 6, it worked perfectly. 2008 Escalade 2L I'm not sure why they don't put 6 2L on the sign. Competitors are the ones who make the decisions. I rolled the dice and it came up with a fantastic result. Before you loctite and torque the bolts, make sure you plug in the water temperature sensor. To make it easier to lock in, I trimmed the plug's lock tab. Bend the metal heat shield on the manifold down with a hammer as well. Trimming isn't necessary.
The exhaust leak from the rear right exhaust manifold was fixed by 142. Tahoe was released in 2009. Chevy should have used thicker bolts to secure the exhaust manifolds to the heads. This Dorman exhaust clamp can be used on the front left or rear right of your vehicle. In order to get to the area, I had to take off the right front tire and inner fender. There is a heat shield that makes it difficult, but it only took 3 minutes from start to finish. It's the best way to fix those exhaust manifold areas where the mount bolt heads have popped off, and it only takes about 1/2 hour. It helps you save a lot of cash. I also used part number Dorman exhaust clamp on the rear left a few years ago, and it still works perfectly.
I attempted this to save time by not having to remove the entire manifold and extract the broken stud. My manifold, on the other hand, was slightly bent, which was most likely to blame for the broken studs. The clamp wouldn't even make a half-decent seal, so I torqued it down harder, which bent the bolts and the clamp. If everything else is in order, it should work, but if something is distorted, it's useless as a band-aid. In the end, I replaced the manifold with an ABN Stud Extractor Set from Amazon, which worked perfectly in a pinch. It should have been done correctly the first time around, and it didn't take long at all.
On a 2004 2500HD 6, this was the first time. 0L, and now a Suburban 5 from 2006. 3L. The 18 ft lb torque specification is the only one that has been questioned. on the central bolt that pushes against the manifold I have a pretty good bolt feel when it comes to tightening, and I knew this was way too tight before my torque wrench even touched it. Finally, make sure you have some high-temp thread lock/sealer on hand before starting the job; the brackets do not come with any!.
As a result, this is what I went with. The only significant difference between the two brands is at the end of the "pinch" bolt: the Kral has a nut welded onto the end of the "pinch" bolt, I guess to expand surface pressure, whereas the dorman is just a straight up bolt, no nut. In any case, it took me about half an hour to install, which I did at night with flashlights (I was impatient and couldn't wait until the next day!). ) Some engines may require heat shield trimming; mine, on the other hand, was so rusted that I simply ripped off the small piece that was in the way with my hand. The other thing I will say is to be VERY CAREFUL with your DIPSTICK TUBE! To get the bracket bolt into the dipstick tube, you'll need to unbolt the bracket and slightly manipulate the dipstick tube. The tube will most likely have a lot of rust/rot where it meets the manifolds, just like mine did. When manipulating the tube, use caution! With that said, it was installed, and there was no more ticktocktocktocktocktocktocktocktocktocktocktocktocktockt I'll keep everyone updated if anything changes in the near future with this excellent product.
On eBay, you can find cheaper clones, but Dorman maintains a high standard of quality. Applied to the front left 5. Easy fix for a broken exhaust manifold bolt on a 3LS 1500 Chevy. There are a lot of videos on YouTube. Simply adhere to the guidelines.
I think you should get it. The second and fifth bolts are not clamped by Dorman. Check out KRAL if you're looking for one. I'm not aware of any other alternatives. On my 1999 4x4, this works perfectly. Silverado with a capacity of eight liters.
Related Products For Dorman 917-142 Exhaust Manifold Clamp Repair Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX)
