Dorman 800-995 Aluminum Line Block Off For 5/8 Line
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Hello Alisha, To block the supply and return tubes, use a caliper to measure their outer diameters. For each tube, order a single unit. It's been a year or more since I used it, and it's still going strong. Best of luck!
Check to see if a 5/8 open end wrench will fit over the line you're terminating. The fitting should fit if the wrench does.
Right after the front-to-back union, I put the block off on the back lines. Make sure they're completely tightened, as one of ours came loose while the system was being charged.
First and foremost, this product is only intended for use on metal lines. Without a doubt. They're fantastic on metal lines. Even though refrigerant tends to leak past elastomeric seals, I like the elastomer sealing rings because they allow for a little corrosion or roughness in the metal line. The next step is to differentiate between low and high pressure lines (or hoses). If you have a low-pressure line, such as a heater hose, a simple solid plug and a worm-drive worm-drive worm-drive worm-drive worm-drive worm-drive worm-drive worm-drive worm-drive The solution is to use a gear hose clamp. Round stock is available at most hardware stores, or a bolt with an unthreaded portion can be used. However, if you need to block off a refrigerant line, proceed with caution. The stakes are high, and the jury selection process is time-consuming. Rigged plugs are prone to failure, particularly if the hose is damaged. The best option is to either disconnect the far end of the hose and replace it with a plug or other suitable blind fitting, or completely remove the hose and replace it with a plug or other suitable blind fitting for whatever the hose used to connect to. Flare plugs are common, but depending on the manufacturer, finding a fitting that fits your vehicle may be difficult. Finally, keep in mind that if you use this or any other plug on an air conditioner, you must recover any remaining charge to comply with EPA regulations. You'll also need to evacuate (with a high-powered fan) because of air in the line system. Before recharging the system, vacuum pump it. I like to take it apart, fill it with dry nitrogen, and then reassemble it. It should be evacuated to ensure that all of the moisture has been removed. In order to do a good job, you'll need an electronic vacuum gauge.
Selected User Reviews For Dorman 800-995 Aluminum Line Block Off For 5/8 Line
On my 2011 Dodge Durango's rear A/C lines, I installed this kit (along with a 3/8 version). Cut the lines near the transfer case and follow the directions to install the terminations. Take it easy and cautiously. AC lines are under 40 PSI of pressure, so be careful if you cut into one that hasn't been fully discharged. You'll want a nice, clean, uniform cut, so use a proper tubing cutter to cut the lines. With a Q-tip, smooth the edges and clean the insides of the pipes. tip. Installation was a breeze, and the terminations fit snugly and are working well so far. My third-row passengers will be hot this summer, but this is a brilliant repair idea that will undoubtedly save me a lot of money. It is highly recommended.
There are two options left for you. Either spend several thousand dollars to fix it, or have a mechanic remove the entire rear air conditioning system and replace the lines with these. I went with the less expensive option. I still have air conditioning, and it only cost me around $140.
These were purchased as a less expensive alternative to the other block off kit for a Dodge Grand Caravan that had a leak at the rear AC unit. This kit will not work if the lines have already been connected. This kit will not work unless the AC line is cut. When you're cutting, make sure you have at least four cuts. If you only have 5" to work with, make sure the end of the line goes all the way into the silver part of the kit or it will not seal. Because I did not want to cut my lines, I returned this product. It says in the product description that you can simply remove and reconnect, but cutting the lines makes that difficult.
These are extremely effective. I've used these and a similar model that's a splice connector to repair A/C lines a few times. On this project, I hit a snag because there wasn't enough straight tubing where I needed to cut the line for this guy to fully push on and seat, so it leaked after installation. It wasn't the product's fault; it simply didn't fit in the space I had planned for it on this app. Keep in mind that the line must push in and seat all the way into the silver nut at the end. On the one I was working on, I eventually folded over the line and brazed the end closed.
My 1998 Sienna had a large leak in the rear evaporator piping (oil was used to mark the location). Rather than replacing expensive piping on an old vehicle, I used 1/2" and 5/8" terminators to plug the lines leading to the back, where they exit the firewall Y. A new drier was installed, as well as two additional driers. Vacuumed (it held 30" for an hour), then recharged the system with 7 oz of Supercool PAG46 oil/dye. At the register, the temperature is still hovering around 40 degrees. This is a fantastic way to save both time and money.
To clean the line and remove any burrs, use an emery cloth or 600 grit sandpaper. Follow the manufacturer's instructions when installing the fitting. No leaks. No headaches, and after vacuuming and charging the system, I was able to get my front A/C to work again. In an auto parts store, this item costs more than $50, so Amazon is your best bet.
These (along with a 1/2" set) were purchased to seal off the rear A/C on my 1999 Toyota Sienna. It's been about two years, and my air conditioner is still full and working!.
It's a perfect fit and a breeze to use.
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