Dorman 800-643 Line Splice For 5/16 In. Aluminum Lines
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I'm not sure which line you want to fix, but measure the outside diameter carefully and order according to that measurement. The repair fitting, by the way, is in excellent condition. All the best!
Take a measurement of the tube's outer diameter. It was tested on a Lexus SC400 from 1995.
Then you'll need the 3/4-size one, lad.
Yes, it appears to be feasible. 5/16 equals 0. 3125
Selected User Reviews For Dorman 800-643 Line Splice For 5/16 In. Aluminum Lines
Five out of five stars. The front sway bar was resting on a high-pressure line for the rear air conditioner. Over time, this wore a hole in the seal, allowing all of the refrigerant to escape. There were at least a hundred new lines to create, and the time and effort involved wouldn't be easy. While researching the issue, I discovered that cutting out the hole and splicing in a repair was an option. I went to Amazon and found this Dorman product quickly; to put it another way, it saved me both time and money. br>br>You must know the EXACT diameter of the line you plan to splice in order to purchase the appropriate kit. Examine the problem area carefully to ensure that you'll have enough room to cut the damaged line and join the cut ends into the coupler body. To get some play, you might have to untangle the lines from existing support brackets. If the section to be removed is too long, you may also need to get some extra hard line and multiple couplers. In my case, I obtained a short length of scrap AC line from another vehicle and used this splice connector to connect one end to a nearby connection fitting and the other cut end to the damaged line.
My 1995 Lexus SC300 appears to be holding up. A corroded line is held in place by a steel clamp in the center of the radiator. I was able to pull the ends together by cutting a small piece off each end. I was losing vacuum, so I gave each side a second turn, which sealed the deal. It appears that the situation is stable.
I used this Dorman A/C line splice to repair a broken metal A/C line, and it worked perfectly and without leaking. I do wish, however, that I had the lines brazed instead. o- is used in these fittings. o-rings to seal the line, but brazing would never fail, as o-rings are o-rings are o-rings are o-rings It's possible that rings will do so over time.
I was skeptical at first, but it worked to repair the air conditioning in my Toyota. I spliced this in after cutting through an aluminum line. For more than a year, it has remained stable. No refrigerant has been lost. I was able to save a significant amount of money as a result of your assistance.
This worked perfectly for me as a female who refused to pay hundreds of dollars to have my Acura MDX's air conditioner repaired. Because a screw was rubbing against it, it made a hole. This is something I brought with me. It was the ideal size and extremely simple to use. This year, I promised my children that we would have air, and we did. I only spent $30 in total.
Although it failed a Valvoline leak test, it appears to be in good working order. I used a sniffer and it's barely enough to last the summer. I'll probably have to restock in the middle of next year. But, by then, you'll have a new car, so it'll be fine.
I had a leak/hole in my aluminum air conditioning tubing for my 98 Corolla because it was rubbing up against a bolt, so I moved it back into place, cut the tubing at the affected area with a saw, added mineral oil to the rubber seals (per directions), connected the connections on both ends of cut tubing, put it all together, and hand tightened as best I could because no tools would fit in the tight space, and it worked! The air conditioner is back to normal now that the system has been refilled with the proper refrigerant. It's very pleasant and relaxing.
It was no problem splicing a bad line into a salvage yard replacement piece. There were no leaks the first time, and using a torque wrench, as suggested, was a good idea.