The Stop Shop 8 Foot Roll / Coil of 3/16 Inch (.028" Wall) Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing

You know those old commercials with the "it's so easy a caveman could do it" line? One of them would be appropriate in this case. The last time I made brake lines, it was for a project. In fact, I didn't know (a) that you can make your own brake lines or (b) that brake lines can rust before a week ago. It has certainly been more years since the internet became a thing for me to work on cars and I have never seen a brake line that had rusted through either from the inside or from the outside. While I've been around the block a few times, I've never worked on a good-quality product This is Ole- It's been a long time since I've driven an American truck. As I can gather from the internet (which is a thing now), brake lines commonly rust on older trucks (meaning mid- to late 2000s models, not 1950s models) due to the curious decision to use uncoated mild steel There is no outrage over this occurrence, and everyone seems to be accepting of it. I think any of those could be utilized as a sort of stopping block, and then I think for a half second about which color Prius I should use to stop me (it's the chartreuse one, of course!). In any case, I have a little too much energy This is what the actual review looks like This thing is easy to work with!

Holy hell, these knobs are fast! The variety of benders I have used has varying degrees of success, depending on the material. My experience ranges from copper HVAC lines to steel tubing. As a result of a relatively thick wall on these lines and the soft nature of the metal, we are able to bend them by hand, even into pretty tight spaces. The radius turns that you need match the original shape of the lines (should you choose to do so) do not pose a problem. They really can't be kinked on your first go, even if you You can get a cheap double bed if you go to the mall If you don't want to do this again anytime soon, you could wrap the lines with something (to prevent them from getting hit by debris) and some stainless fasteners if you don't want to do this again anytime soon. As a result of rusty brake lines, your brakes are probably in pretty bad shape, so you should invest in rear brake cylinders (they're only $10 each and will save you the trouble of replacing bleeders if you strip them during removal. You may have to retap the holes if you have to drill those out first). If you want to replace the fronts, you just have to get the bleeders you need, as well as the tap and retap necessary after drilling out the existing hole. After you bleed your brakes, don't forget to bleed your tires. Take a ride and wait for something else that shouldn't 4) fall off your pickup It was just the brakes that failed. I lost 'em in the driveway and was able to stop before I got to the road. Don't worry, no cars were injured.

Cali Grant

| Nov 16, 2020

My home is located in the rust belt, and I had to replace old, rusted, worn-out metal parts Several brake lines on the rear of my 1996 Chevy Blazer are worn out. Note that I am a "backyard mechanic", but I grew up with a dad who worked in the auto industry for all of his life, and I have a great deal of experience learning how to rebuild cars from other people. After using the Polyarmor steel lines they carry in many auto parts stores last year to replace the fuel lines on it, I noticed they already looked like they were starting to rust. I couldn't imagine using that stuff again, so I decided to try this. I would have probably spent three times as much to run new lines in the back due to the cost of polyarmor. Therefore, I wanted something particularly effective at fighting rust, but also simple to install and less expensive, especially on a vehicle that is over 20 years old, and in which I don't want to pay ridiculous amounts for it. I have found working with this vs. to be extremely enjoyable so far. This appears to be made of steel. Unlike a lot of other materials, this one is very flexible! It is entirely possible to bend these lines by hand, and unless you are making a very sharp turn, you do not need a bending tool (although I do My surprise is that it's so easy to make the turn, and they don't kink easily (even if I make a very sharp turn, they seem very difficult The ease of routing makes them astronomically easier to route underneath your vehicle and in tight places in the engine compartment. Steel lines can be kinked a lot easier than this product. This type of line also lends itself to flares 10x easier than others. The flares can be easily made on Vs thanks to the double/bubble flare functionality. You will find hard steel lines on these There have been a few mentions here of these being easy to "over flare," and I would agree with them There are some finer points to practicing it (especially with hand flaring tools) and you should not use too much line through your flaring tool or it may end up looking like this. There is an inconsistent size of the walls here as well, according to others. It has happened a few times during flaring that the bubble flares are a bit uneven, but hardly a cause for complaint. The following is compared with the following. My preference is for steel lines over stainless steel because of their ease of use. It has not leaked at any of my wheel cylinders, or at any of the hoses. . . They do a good job of flareing because of a joint at the rear of the vehicle. I did a test drive today and saw that the brakes are flawless. Luckily there are no leaks, so I am not worried. The real test will come in time, and whether these things corrode or hold up over the winter. As I continue to review the book, I will update my review. However, this product is something I am cheering for. I expect that these will hold up well over the winter, so I'm going to use them for all future projects with hard lines, whether those are steering, brake, There is just something about working with it that I like more than working with. This appears to be made of steel.

Romeo Ramsey

| Mar 31, 2021

Tubes made of very high quality that replace the original, rusted ones. The copper nickel brake line is actually best over the steel brake line as it won't rust in the traditional sense and it's easier to bend to shape and form appropriate inverted double flares so there will not be any distortion in the brake line or brake line line to wear out. Two ends are sealed with caps, and inside the plastic wrap are a small bag of dessicant to absorb any moisture that may be inside the I love how neat, professional, and permanent it looks under the car in place of the rusted out lines, as well as being very similar to steel tubing in terms of psi rating.

Valerie Wyatt

| Jul 03, 2021

Despite its softness, this hardening material is corrosion-resistant and durable If you did not have a special tool, you could bend the tubing very easily In addition to being an all-around bending tool, it is also a simple matter to flare with a cheap ISO flaring tool that I purchased on Amazon. I have no doubt that this tubing will outlast the rest of the vehicle for a long time to come. Nicop was my first time using it, and I highly recommend it to anyone who had trouble bending and flaring hard steel lines.

Jaxxon Lopez

| May 12, 2021

There is no problem with this line whether it is bubble flare or standard flare!
I will definitely buy it again when it runs
Use thicker wall tubes with copper and nickel, not the thin, cheap ones that only seem to split when you flare them!.

Lena Jenkins

| Feb 11, 2021