Motorcraft BT97 Belt Tensioner
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Use a 3/8" breaker bar to remove the belt (tilt the tensioner clockwise) and then release it. On the D3 platform (Taurus/Explorer/Flex/MKS/MKT), the A/C line bracket can get in the way of a ratchet, which is why I recommend using a breaker bar. Worst case scenario: you jam your ratchet in there, causing bad karma. It was necessary for me to wiggle my breaker bar in and out. Then, using an 8mm socket, remove the three bolts. The bolt closest to the alternator on my 2018 Explorer was in a tight spot, and there was no way I could use a 3/8" ratchet or torque wrench, so I had to use a 1/4" ratchet. The clearance problem was caused by the same A/C line bracket that I previously mentioned. The bolts are tightened to a torque of 97 in-lbs. lb / 11 N- lb / 11 N- lb / 11 N I recommend using a string or zip-tie when reinstalling the new BT97 tensioner. As you start one of the bolts by hand, tie through the square 3/8" drive hole to keep it in place. Because of the limited clearance, it's difficult to support the tensioner while also starting the bots. The same goes for putting on the belt; I suggest using a string or zip-tie. Lift the belt over the alternator pulley by tying it at the alternator side. br>br>Whoever designed the front-end packaging should be congratulated. The D3 platform's end accessory drive is most likely also in charge of the internal water pump. Rather than moving the unibody structure, they designed around it, which is very expensive in the long run. The CD4 platform (Fusion/Edge/MKZ/Continental) was able to use the 2. if you look at the CD4 platform (Fusion/Edge/MKZ/Continental). 7/3. Because the unibody crossmember was missing, 0 EcoBoost engines were forced to use an external water pump.
Selected User Reviews For Motorcraft BT97 Belt Tensioner
It's unclear how long the new one will last, but there's a Gates logo on the pulley for the original Ford tensioner and the new BT97 replacement. These tensioners are not made by Ford, but they are made by Gates. My 2018 Explorer's original tensioner and belt began chirping during cold starts this year, despite the fact that it had only 22k miles. I discovered one of the micro-belts after removing the original belt. The crack in V's has developed. However, the tensioner pulley, like all of my other pulleys, spun smoothly. The tensioner was a little sluggish, as I could only move it with a lot of force with my hands, but the new BT97 wouldn't budge. I'm not sure how long it'll last, as I've had Fords in the past with original tensioners that lasted 20 years and others that only lasted a few. Procedure: br>br> Using a 3/8" breaker bar, remove the belt and release it (tilt the tensioner clockwise). On the D3 platform (Taurus/Explorer/Flex/MKS/MKT), the A/C line bracket can get in the way of a ratchet, which is why I recommend using a breaker bar. Worst case scenario: you jam your ratchet in there, causing bad karma. It was necessary for me to wiggle my breaker bar in and out. Then, using an 8mm socket, remove the three bolts. The bolt closest to the alternator on my 2018 Explorer was in a tight spot, and there was no way I could use a 3/8" ratchet or torque wrench, so I had to use a 1/4" ratchet. The clearance problem was caused by the same A/C line bracket that I previously mentioned. The bolts are tightened to a torque of 97 in-lbs. lb / 11 N- lb / 11 N- lb / 11 N I recommend using a string or zip-tie when reinstalling the new BT97 tensioner. As you start one of the bolts by hand, tie through the square 3/8" drive hole to keep it in place. Because of the limited clearance, it's difficult to support the tensioner while also starting the bots. The same goes for putting on the belt; I suggest using a string or zip-tie. Lift the belt over the alternator pulley by tying it at the alternator side. Finally, double-check that the belt is fully seated, properly wrapped, and not caught on anything. I removed my PTU cooling duct to inspect it from the bottom, but I don't think it's absolutely necessary, but it's a good idea if this is your first time replacing it on a D3 vehicle. br>br>Whoever designed the front-end packaging should be congratulated. The D3 platform's end accessory drive is most likely also in charge of the internal water pump. Rather than moving the unibody structure (which is right in the way and causes the A/C line bracket interference), they designed around it, which is very expensive for the end-user. Due to labor hours, particularly for the water pump (12 hours), the user. The CD4 platform (Fusion/Edge/MKZ/Continental) was able to utilize the 2. 7/3. Because the unibody crossmember was missing, 0 EcoBoost engines were forced to use an external water pump.
My 2010 Fusion Sport's belt tensioner was replaced in February, and this "new" belt tensioner is already failing. I had Autozone check the battery and alternator because I noticed lower voltage readings, and during testing, the belt tensioner was making horrible clicking noises. For something that is OEM and brand new, this is completely unacceptable.
Everything went according to plan. The old tensioner is removed with three (3) bolts. I highly recommend using a "flat" breaker bar (or 3/8" tensioner bar) for the installation of a new serpentine belt, as I used a standard 3/8" ratchet and ended up having to cut it out (and now need a new one). The issue is that because the new belt is tighter than the old one, it caused the ratchet (installed in the tensioner) to rest directly in front of another bolt-head once it was installed. I couldn't get the ratchet out because I didn't have enough clearance. This shouldn't be a difficult project if you have the necessary tools (and a helping hand for the new belt installation). br>br>Overall, this product performed admirably. br>2013 Ford Explorer Limited.
It was simple to set up and it eliminated a strange noise I was hearing. This part is near the top of the 2013 Taurus engine, so it's easy to find the sound. A couple of bolts and you're done. I decided to put on a new belt while I was at it (why not?). The whole thing took about 45 minutes because the belt got caught on something underneath when I was putting it back on. It was easy to put the belt on once I realized that. It should have taken about 15 minutes in total (yeah, I squandered half an hour due to my stubbornness).
In my wife's Edge, I replaced the belt tensioner. This component is of excellent quality!.
Pros It was exactly what I needed for my SUV. It was somewhat difficult to install without special tools due to the cramped interior of the engine bay. I've had no issues with it since it was properly installed.
The original Ford part lasted 120,000 miles before it needed to be replaced. 6 years. This "Motorcraft" component only lasted a year and 10,000 miles. Either I got a faulty product or these aren't genuine Ford parts.
Brought this on July 31st and took it to the mechanic today, September 2nd, to figure out why I'm hearing the same noise. He showed me and it was rattling Defective Wound up having to pay 77 dollars for a new one.
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