POR-15 42268 Chevy Orange Engine Enamel - 1 pint
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Questions & Answers
Yes, I agree
My opinion is that is not the case! In any case, why would you want to paint the inside of a gearbox?
The only time I've used it was on a vehicle. Applied in high gloss, it dries very durable and is very hard-wearing. Rails would be better served if it was implemented
Selected User Reviews For POR-15 42268 Chevy Orange Engine Enamel - 1 pint
I've always had good results with POR15, but the can of white engine enamel I picked up today did not seem to be Even after repeated stirring and scraping of the bottom, the liquid still appears very watery. I tried to use it, but because it didn't go on like it should (and since cured POR15 is nearly indestructible), I slathered it in I figured it was old product, but the can was as clean as if it had just been bought. I have given this can a five-star rating for past experiences, but a zero for this one. I give it a four star rating because of the bad math. I hope I can get another can elsewhere - Por 15 is a good product - If you don't care about it, you might as well forget.
As I began to assemble it, as I started to find out, this paint chipped off easily. While this did not happen on the block, the flakes did. As a professional painter with 25 years of experience, I followed the instructions to the tee. My timing cover was the same color as my engine, so I used the same product. The worst nightmare I have ever experienced! Applying paint is difficult since it is hard to spread evenly on a flat surface without it becoming Air bubbles begin to form as soon as you begin applying it, no matter how slowly you move the brush. Even after you stop spreading the paint, the air bubbles continue to surface. To remove the bubbles, I tried spreading paint thinner on them, but it caused even more bubbles. Bubbles remain after the paint settles, and it drips and sags where it could not be spread properly because it is not evenly spread. When I tried a different brush with softer bristles on the second coat, the same thing happened. My next step is to sand a little bit to remove the bubbled surface, then to add Not only did it do the same thing, but it also shrank and cracked after drying, destroying the part! I feel so cheated! It is extremely rare to find parts like this! We'll have to soak it in acetone for a whole bath before we can strip it back! Then why do they not sell this in spray cans? As a result of this, I have spent quite a bit of time and money, and now I have to try and match the engine color using this method again! I would use a totally different paint if I had a chance to start over with the engine. This garbage is so disgusting, that I cannot even begin to describe how much I dislike it! In addition to industrial epoxy, this paint is by far the worst I have ever used. I have used both regular house paint and industrial epoxy.
As far as I know, I have used regular Pork- I have tried 15 with good results, so I thought I would give this a try as well. Essentially, the instructions say to start with a basecoat of regular Porcelain My score was 15, which I achieved. The Por-fowl course was of course a must for me Use the 15 degreaser and do the metal prep as directed. As far as this is concerned, it doesn't take place like you would expect - A thin and runny substance is found in 15. It was easy to build the block, but the oil pan turned out to be I had to clean off the runs as I did the first coat and let it soak over night. When I returned, the oil pan was a runny mess. It was possible to touch up the block, but trying to fix anything with the pan made things My current plan is to strip off the oil pan and use spray cans instead, since they have worked for me in the past, and are much cheaper. Even with all the crazy prep work you have to do, this product is still preferable to most others out there.
Although I don't know how it will turn out, the 1975 GoldWing block (aluminum) I am painting looks very promising. The block has been caked-on for several weeks now, so I've been cleaning it up You can rub it on oil, grease, and road grime to make it shine. The final step is to scrub with carb cleaner, then scrub with scrub bubbles, and then clean While I used a brush to apply the paint the paint turned out well, even though it was brushed on. Whether durability will stand the test of time remains to be seen. A brief update More than a year later, it still looks great and is winning trophies! There were a couple of tiny chips on it from handling - This is a perfect match. The motorcycle with an MG Maroon engine works well in dark emerald green metallic.
During the renovations of my engine, I spent a great deal of time According to the directions, I prepared it as directed We had a terrible time with the paint There was an excessive amount of bright light (almost fluorescent) in the exhaust and the color was unrecognisable from the original engine paint. You may also refer to Despite this, the paint remained very sticky and did not adhere evenly the next day This is a MAJOR problem Spending money on something that isn't worth it My first step was to remove all the painted areas and start over The product I will use next time will be different As for the POR degreaser, it was also.
(It does not match the VHT very well since the VHT is more red). An even coating of paint on the block and a glossy finish ensure a durable In the end, it proved more difficult to obtain an acceptable finish on the oil pan. Various runs are caused by wet finishes and brush marks are caused by dry finishes. Generally, I think this block will be a good fit for the block and is solid enough to last for.
The paint went on easily and adhered well. When the paint was applied, it was a nice white, but over time, it has turned almost beige in color after being exposed to the hot exhaust gases. temperature gun and the part painted has consistently been below 300 degrees Fahrenheit. So it can't be due to the temperature being too high. Although the paint seems durable, it shouldn't yellow like this, especially not when it's nowhere near the rated temperature of 500 degrees. It is not something I would purchase.
It brushed on wonderfully. Two coats of paint were applied with a foam brush, and the paint dried smoothly and without It was more than enough to paint the whole block, heads, and oil pan in one pint. At first, I was concerned it would be too little. As far as looks go, it is way more beautiful than anything I could have gotten from a spray can, and if it stands up like the rust sealer stuff they sell, it will stay that way.
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