MICTUNING LED Light Bar Wiring Harness Off Road Power 40A Relay Fuse ON-Off Switch (2 Lead)

DONT BUY. This ended up costing me $300 in heartache, hours of time, and multiple times being stranded on the side of the road. But please, please, please don't buy this wiring harness twice. br>br>So, what happened, you might wonder? My truck, on the other hand, had a LED light bar. To make it work, I needed a wiring harness. I intended to make my own, as I have done many times before, so I started buying all the supplies I would need, and then boom. Amazon sends me a nice little recommendation that says, "Hey, this wiring harness will do everything you need. " As a result, I'm like, "Hell ya. " That was simple! I buy it. It arrives quickly after that. It only takes a few minutes to set up. I'm in a fantastic mood! The light bar is functioning properly. The switch is functional. Everything appears to be in order. Thank you so much, Amazon. br>br>Fast forward about a month, and I go to start my truck, only to find that the battery is dead. What the hell is going on, I'm thinking. What could be the problem with this battery (it's less than a year old)? I try to charge it but can't seem to get it to work. As a result, I spend a hundred dollars on a new battery. It needs to be replaced. Everything is in good working order, and we're back on the road. After a week or so, I got a call. Again, the battery is dead. As a result, I'm like, "OK. " There is clearly something wrong with this situation. I don't know much about electricity, but I figured I'd play around with it and see what I could come up with. When I use a multimeter to check the voltage, I notice that I'm getting a POSITIVE reading from the battery's NEGATIVE side! What the hell is going on, I'm thinking. So, to cut a long story short, I go out and buy another battery, assuming that the first one was defective. It dies in the drive through at Whataburger, and I spend hours tracing wires, thinking something is wrong with my truck, only to discover that it's this cheap, no-good wiring harness that has somehow revered polarity, and is now FRYING my batteries by sending a positive charge to the negative lead on my battery. br>br>And, before you ask, no, I did not connect it in reverse. I didn't break anything by accident or make a mistake. It can't get any easier than this. From the color red to the color red From the dark to the light. Unless you're a complete moron, there's no room for error, so TRUST ME when I say DO NOT BUY THIS JUNK.

Dax Jarvis

| Jan 28, 2021

On my atv, I bought this to go with a 50w led light bar. The idea of using a relay, a fuse, and a lighted switch, among other things, appealed to me because the purpose of a relay is to control a high current device with a low current power source. My lamp only uses 4 watts at 50 watts. 2 amps (50 watts/12 volts). Because this switch is unlikely to handle 4 amps continuously, the load is controlled by a relay. The issue with this harness is that the switch is powered by the battery, which means that the red and green indicator lights are always on. The indicator stays on even when the lights are turned off (red) and the key is turned off. What should have happened was that the relay should have been connected to the battery via a fuse for the high current load, regardless of what anyone says, over time. Also, the switch power should have had a wire that could be connected to an ignition source that only turned on when the key was turned on. This way, the switch could control the high current light load via the fuse, but only when the key was turned on. Key off turns off all lights; key on turns on either the red or green light on the switch, depending on whether the light bar (load) is turned on or off. This would have been the best course of action for everyone involved. br>If you don't mind running the battery down, you could connect the relay and switch power and connect them to the battery, or you could connect the relay to the battery and the switch to the ignition (accessory) for the rest of us who don't want dead batteries. If the harness had been properly implemented, I would have given it 5 stars. But now I have to make some changes to the new harness, which was almost perfect before. The larger white wire on the pigtail going to the switch (on the relay side of the connector) must be cut. The large white wire connecting the relay and the switch should not be used (it is connected directly to the battery and will keep your switch indicator light on at all times). Instead. Using the large white wire from the connector, splice it to any 12V source that is only on when your key is on. Your light bar and switch indicator lights will only turn on when the key is turned on as a result of this. The light bar and switch indicator lights will remain off when the key is turned off, preventing the battery from being drained. This will also keep your switch connector in good shape, allowing you to replace it at a later date if it fails, etc. , without having to do any additional splicing. They were on the verge of getting it right. br> However, it is still worth the ten dollars to have to make the changes. Someone, hopefully, will read this and make the necessary changes. All that is required is to disconnect the white wire from the relay and leave 3 feet or so of red wire to tie into the position of the battery. Alternatively, you can cut the ring terminal and connect it to an accessory power source. To make it perfect, it's fairly simple.

Keira Ewing

| Dec 09, 2021

This is a great way to mount auxiliary lights to a car. My only criticism is that the connector between the switch and the relay should not be attached when the product is purchased, as this would make routing through the firewall more difficult. You'll almost certainly have to push it through a rubber boot, or two in my case. Because the connector made this difficult, I cut it off on both sides, pushed the wires through, and soldered them back together. Aside from that, it's a good fit.

Zahir Bautista

| Jul 28, 2021

This is the second time I've bought this wire harness. Once to power a set of four 4-inch LED lights and once to power a single 20-inch LED light. br>br>Once you've seen where all the connections go, the harness is very easy to understand. I made a video for both of my LED installations in case you have any questions. You can find them on YouTube if you search for the following terms: br>br>How to install a 20'' light bar on a Nissan Xterra videobr>br>Andbr>br>Oslamp LED 4'' Spot Light Bar Bumper Installation Video/Reviewbr>br>In both of those videos, I explain the harness. The button itself has a cheap feel to it. It lacked substance, and I wished it had more. But, so far, it's been flawless. br>br>If anything happens, I'll update this review.

Madisyn Michael

| Aug 21, 2021

I bought it because it came with everything I needed. The switch, light leads, relay, and so on. br>As soon as I connected the system, I turned on the negative and then the positive, and the switch lit for a nanosecond before dying. The switch wasn't going to last long, and the wiring was made of the cheapest and lightest aluminum available. Buy copper wire, a relay, and an off-road toggle if you want to spend a little more money. You'll feel better about yourself knowing you did everything correctly.

Trace Boyer

| Sep 04, 2021