GlowShift Tinted 7 Color 30 PSI Turbo Boost / Vacuum Gauge Kit - Includes Mechanical Hose & T-Fitting - Black Dial - Smoked Lens - for Car & Truck - 2-1/16" 52mm

I really liked this meter. Initially. . . But, thankfully, it arrived two months before the one-year anniversary of my order, and it is now completely dead in the water. It's ridiculous that I can't see my boost at night. The boost/vacuum needle is still operational, but the lights have gone dark. All of my ties are strong. The unit is in good working order, but it will not light up when you apply a low voltage to it. Faulty. During the night, I couldn't see it at all. br>br>NOTE: THIS PAGE HAS BEEN UPDATED. DO. NOT. BUY. Unless you don't mind buying a new one every 10 months, which isn't a big deal, the false promise of warranty coverage is a big deal. There is no customer service, and the warranty is not honored. (Always answering machine) There is no customer service phone number. For 42 dollars, this is what I get:.

Dakota Rowe

| Mar 07, 2021

2017 Ford F150 3 5 stars for ecoboost; it performs as expected and comes with excellent installation instructions. I haven't yet wired the headlight option. Under the steering wheel, there are several places where you can find constant 12v. To get my ignition 12 volts, I use the passenger fuse box fuse 1 10 amp fuse with a micro 2 and a circuit fuse tap. It's your cabin dimmer delay fuse, so it's perfect. I didn't have to take anything out to run the wire back to the drivers side; there's a ground screw right next to the obdII port, and my boost line went through the firewall grommets. It's a pain to use the two factory zip ties. The Dorman 1/8-inch adjustable Trim the 1/8 ends off the section inline with the original boost line on the 3/8 tee, as the opening was already 3/8 and you don't want to restrict it. The Dorman variety clam set was also purchased. To install the tee, I had to cut out about 2 inches of my factory boost line and heat the ends. Save time and money by purchasing a 12v circuit tester from Harbor Freight for $3. The quickest method of determining the constant and ignition voltages is to use a 12 volt voltmeter. Everything is accessible from there by removing the side panel, vent, and the left half of the plactic beneath the steering wheel. br>Wishing you all the best. Encourage your friends to help you.

Roselyn Winters

| Jan 01, 2021

It's simple to connect if you know where the power sources are as well as how and where you want it to be set up. br>br>I was able to pin mine directly into the ignition harness clip without having to cut or tap any wires, which was a huge plus for me (I despise messing with car wires). The gauge's headlight dimmer control is the only thing I haven't connected yet. Because I keep my gauge in the red color to match my stock gauges, I don't use the dimmer. br>br>The only issue I have is that without a power source to light the numbers, the gauge is basically useless because it's so dark that you won't be able to see it even in daylight. br>Also, the vacuum hose that came with the kit is very thin and cheap. During the installation, it ripped quite easily on one end. Fortunately, it was long enough for my setup, so I was able to shorten it and finish the installation without the need for any additional parts. Finally, I'm not sure if my guage is defective because I can't see more than 12 psi on it, despite the fact that my stock setup should be at 16 psi. I have full vacuum where it should be, and it appears to be showing small amounts of boost properly with no visible signs of vacuum or boost leaks, so I'm hoping it's my ecu throttling boost or the wastegate venting early for some reason.

Clara Sloan

| Oct 13, 2021

Is it true that more expensive, more accurate gauges exist? Yes. Are these the most attractive gauges for the least amount of money? Yes. The only complaint I have is that the gauge appears to be off by a constant 1-percentage point. When in vacuum, the pressure is 2 PSI, and the ratio is similar. The others have been in my truck for five years and are still going strong.

Dangelo Jarvis

| Mar 26, 2021

It's entertaining to watch the colors change. First and foremost, I'd like to express my gratitude to Damion Aarons for his thoughtful review. His feedback aided in the completion of my project, even though the installation of this small device took longer than I anticipated. The hose that comes with the kit is thin, cheap, and not long enough to reach far. I tapped into my Roush supercharger with an ICT Billet Straight 1/8 hose barb fitting. There is an allen bolt directly behind cyl 4 (passenger side) that you remove and replace with your barb fitting. I then went to an auto parts store and bought a 10' 1/8 vacuum hose, which I ran into my cabin. It was a little difficult to mount the gauge. From Amazon, I bought the GlowShift Universal Black Single Pillar Gauge Pod- That's not going to work with the F150's pillar. So that the right side of this pod didn't stick out, I had to do some cutting. Sources of energy I was on the verge of returning the gauge when I came across this section. I ran the headlight and constant power to the front fuse box in the engine bay by extending my wires. I discovered a location in the steering column where you can tap into the ignition and constant wires. I tried several wires, but nothing on that gauge would light up. Because my voltage meter was broken, this became a lot more enjoyable. Finally, I tapped into the engine bay fuser box- For constant power, a 14-amplifier is used. The ignition wire is located in the passenger side fuse box in the cabin. I read a review that said one user tapped into one dimmer, and so on, but mine had no fuse at all and everything worked fine inside. I tapped the ignition wire to the next-to-it fuse port, 23. I'm looking for the headlight wire, but I can't seem to find it. I tried using the same fuse that I use for my Morimoto lamps, but there is no dimming when the lights are turned on. However, everything functions perfectly. My gauge display appeared dim and difficult to read at first. The gauge lit up like a tree when I moved my ground position. The headlight wire isn't a big deal because the headlights aren't particularly bright. The glare cover for the gauge is completely ineffective. The needle isn't at a zero position. I'm not sure if that's what you're looking for. When I give it some gas, I get around 13 psi, so it appears to be working. It's adequate for the price.

Siena Pham

| Jun 16, 2021

For my 2017 STI, I purchased this boost gauge. It looks great in the A piller pod, and I like that the colors are interchangeable. I like to keep it red to match the factory instrument clusters, but every now and then I'll change it to blue to mix things up. Because of the erroneous reading, I'm giving it a two-star rating. It appears that the pressure is incorrect by 5 psi. The factory boost gauge reads - when the engine is running at idle. The glo shift says - at 10 vacuum. When the switch is turned off, the needle sits at - instead of 0 when the switch is turned on. 5 vaccum. It's possible that you've just received a faulty gauge.

Wynter Norton

| Aug 12, 2021