HFS (R) Heavy Duty Guillotine Paper Cutter -12'' (12'' Paper Cutter)
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A new blade will be ordered on May 24 to replace the one I brought on May 8. After 16 days of moderately heavy use on and off, this is what it looks like. The other answer did not exactly match what I had in mind when I saw the words "a while.".
To keep the paper in place, it has a press. Until now, only 100 sheets have been cut each time. So far, there has not been any slippage.
It was not clear how many pages were in it. It was fairly easy for me to cut 125 pages of 20Lb paper. My cuts had no glossy paper, so I'm not sure how well they will hold. Note when tightening down the clamp mechanism, it would be a good idea to put a few pages under the bar to protect your top sheet. If it is tight, make sure you do not loosen it. Using a single sheet, test your guide bar on each cut to match the guide bar to what you are trying to Wishing you all the best
It can be difficult to determine the thickness of paper based on its weight. In spite of all the stuff I have thrown at this cutter, it has not failed. The thickness of the card stock I usually cut is 18pt In my experience, it is able to cut 30 sheets at a time (018 inch) which are laminated on one side. I can cut a little over 1/2" thick sheets in this machine. In order to cut the material, a holding gate is cranked up over it. The actual cutting is done with a razor sharp blade that is lever operated, and the operation capacity and comfort level of the operator will determine how many inches can be cut at a time. The machine itself is very sturdy and made from steel primarily. The toughest thing I have cut with this machine is a 12" strip of only 1/16" thick virgin Teflon sheet, which I typically cut with a band saw, but in this case a very clean cut line was needed. (Not recommended, but it did the job)
Selected User Reviews For HFS (R) Heavy Duty Guillotine Paper Cutter -12'' (12'' Paper Cutter)
This cutting machine has now been in my possession for 8 months, and I have cut over 230 stacks of paper for planners and journals For me, the following are typical uses Making a cut on a letter An 80+ sheet stack of paper that weighs 118 grams and is 80 pounds. First-time users should keep these tips in mind I. - It is important to use the black fence to aid in keeping the fence in place. I. - I have a ruler on the base of mine that I. - There is no way around the need to use the pressure bar or clamp (front knob), however the way this item is constructed may leave a mark on your top two. There are 3 sheets, so just put two At that spot, there are 3 scraps of paper on top of the stack. As stated by some other commenters, it is not necessary to crank this clamp down to the maximum amount that can be physically applied. Set it up snugly, then make your cut and loosen it as soon as possible! The clamp will only leave indentions on your paper if it is left snug. I. - You will receive an oiled blade when you receive it (this is how it stays sharp) and you may need to carefully wipe it off to avoid damaging your papers. Please note - You will need to turn the gate thing down to use a wider piece of This is something that I didn't do at first and it has helped immensely. I. - A few red flakes do come off from the strip below the blade, but I just dust them with a swiffer after they fall off. I. - Using this device in the same way you might use a 5-inch TV is not a good idea The guillotine trimmer is used for cutting sheets. The black fence has to be set based on distance from the black line where you want your cut. You cannot just eyeball it here. Still, it may be difficult to exactly bend in half the length of a letter-sized sheet so that each cut piece matches the other side By simply printing 2- I was able to fix this The cut of my books is designed so that what's slightly off doesn't matter since the two halves don't try to match each other, they work as separate stories. I. - As a final note, I have the following advice If you are using this tool for the first time, try the first few cuts on paper you won't care about, so you won't waste any.
We have resolved the issue with the Plus Slip! My favorite feature of the cutter is its precision. During cutting, it tends to shift the stack of paper away from the blade, so you must make sure that the paper press is snug. In the extreme, the press will become out of level, and if you press too far, it will not work properly. However, it can be adjusted easily back to its original position. It is necessary to remove the covered cover by removing the four thumbscrews as illustrated in the above You need to loosen the bolts that are above the thumbscrews, each with a 10mm hex head. Once you have made the press level, you can proceed to the next step. Those two bolts need to be tightened pretty well! The cover should be replaced, and the four thumbscrews should be replaced. I did it. The process is really simple. With the goal of preventing slippage, I glued a strip of thin abrasive paper to the base of the press just beneath the platen to prevent stack slippage during cutting without tightening the platen excessively. There is a better grip on the paper. The slippage was cured as a result of this. Perhaps a strip will be added to the top of the press too, but it is a little less crucial. In the basic design, a finely knurled texture on stainless steel could be used instead. But this design works just fine as it stands.
With this cutter, I was really pleased. It didn't take me long until I tried cutting some paper about an inch thick and realized that it doesn't cut at 90 degrees. As you can see, the papers on top are about the same size as I want them to be, but the ones in the bottom are about 1mm smaller (see the picture I've attached). This is the exact tool I bought for trimming handmade books. This is an unacceptable way of cutting. I tried adjusting the screws thinking that maybe the blade is loose or crooked, but it still produces diagonal cuts.
What I wanted it to do was precisely what it did. The pattern of going to a print shop to get my cutting done and paying them money, to then have uneven or angled cuts, got very old for me. I sell my products for resale and cuts like that make my products unsellable. The paper cutter I chose for my paper cutting project was the result of extensive research and the answers to questions from other buyers here. The majority of cards I cut are 80 lb card stock (216 g/m2), but I also cut a bit of 24 lb and 32 lb text or note paper for notepads. My rotary paper cutter can cut up to 1000 sheets of paper, but when I have 500 to 1000 sheets to cut, it is not practical for 500 to 1000 sheets. I think that's where this one fits in. The cutter does an excellent job cutting the 80 lb card stock. I can cut about 50 sheets at once with the machine. The paper can be lined up and held in place in two different ways. There can be no slippage if both are nice and tight. When I got the results that I did, I was ecstatic. My arm was unable to cut 100 sheets of card stock due to the number of sheets. It was the machine that was having trouble. There was no way to use just one hand. Machine accuracy does not vary whether you cut a half inch or a full inch. Depending on which reviewer you ask, you may need to place some cardboard or card stock at the top of your stack and at the bottom. It will not be necessary to remove the piece on the bottom after the first few cuts, as the oil and residue on the bottom will be removed. There will still need to be a top, as the arm of the stack will have to be tightened to prevent the dent from being made to the top. As for my top sheet, I am using a cheaper card stock. Extras such as these are helpful when making a sample card. It has been noted that there are no instructions in several reviews, and I am in agreement with them. The cutter has basically no instructions or manuals for its operation or handling. As far as I can tell, there are instructions for changing a blade whenever that becomes necessary, so that is good. I had a problem at the beginning with the handle on the front right, which you use to adjust the height of the securing bar, which was on backwards during Until I noticed that there was an allen wrench in the sack with the screws, all I could think about was how to fix it. It then occurred to me that the handle was attached with an allen wrench screw. The only thing I had to do is remove the screw and flip the handle so that the knobbed portion was facing outward instead of turning inward. (Sounds so simple now) Can you understand what I'm trying to say? I think a diagram would be more helpful. The handle is black and almost shaped like a j- shaped part of the handle is on the right side of the tub The shaped part that interferes with cutting. (Not the handle that is used directly for cutting. ) In order to operate, the large cutting handle slips over a cylindrical 4 inch object located to the right at the back. The large cutting handle has no screws. When not in use, the clip can easily be slid back off and laid aside. I like the safety feature on this device, which keeps anyone with the big handle from accidentally lowering the blade. The lock at the back prevents this from happening. When you tap on the round extension on the handle, the lock on the handle is released and you can start cutting. Be sure to let go of the handle before letting go if you don't want it to A feature that I appreciate is the safety feature. Here are some instructions for anyone who is thinking about buying this and needs more information. For my experience and for what I need, it is definitely worth the price. The projector is heavy duty and is perfect for a small office or even home use. It is also ideal for cutting heavy material for long periods. The cutter is very well made and I'm very happy with it. The machine can cut a great deal of paper in a short amount of time.
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