Mayflash W010 Wireless Sensor DolphinBar for Wii

I lost my Wii in a divorce in 2011, though I did miss it at times. I didn't miss having a second power brick; in fact, I preferred it. I didn't have to look for a new home for another gadget; I didn't even notice the absence of component cables. Since then, I've only used HDMI, and while some adapters allow you to connect a Wii to HDMI, this allows me to run the Dolphin emulator on my HTPC. Dolphin is free (as in speech), works well, and allows you to use authentic (or knockoff) Wii controllers, despite the fact that it can emulate Wiimotes or GameCube controllers using anything that works on your PC. Wii sensor bars are a misnomer because they don't actually do any sensing (that's done by the Wii remote), but they do require power to power their USB emitters. Wireless sensor bars are useful, as are a variety of other options, but this is one of the best; the magic is in the reliable Bluetooth connection for Wii remotes. Other options exist, but they are neither less expensive nor more straightforward. That's exactly what you've been looking for. br>br>Once you know what to do, it's pretty simple to set it up. Let me assist you because it took you some time to figure out what to do. I didn't use the included CD for a variety of reasons, the most important of which is that my computer lacks a built-in drive. br>br>* There is no need for or availability of a driver. Despite my best efforts, I was unable to locate one. br>* There is, however, a firmware update available, which we will begin with because it is small and simple to install. br>br>1) Download the firmware update from (look for W010br>Wireless Sensor DolphinBar MAYFLASH DolphinBar)br>br>2) Unrar it (need to do this twice) and run updater (note sensor bar not plugged in)br>br>3) while holding synch, plug sensor bar into usb port (a good quality extender should work, but unpowered hubs are not recommended)br>br>4) after plugging Update firmware (takes a second because it's tiny)br>br>5) on the back of the bar, there's a hardware switch for above and below TV placement (never seen one of those), so fill that out. Change to mode 4 as well. br>br>6) Make sure you have the most recent version of Dolphin from dolphin-software. com. emu. org (not to be confused with dolphin-org) is a non-profit organization emulator. com- br>br>7) Pair the Wiimote(s) and everything should work with the default settings. You might want to double-check that "continuous scanning" is turned on in the controller settings (it was probably set to on by default). br>br>* Keep in mind that the Wii Remotes will turn off on their own after a certain amount of time, but pressing the power button will turn it off faster. br>* all extras (classic controller, nunchuck, and so on. ) ) should workbr>* four controllers should workbr>* I got 90-percentile resultsbr>* I got 90-percentile resultsbr>* I got 90-percentile resultsbr>* 95% OEM Wii sensor bar performance (it has a harsher cut off than I remember, but it works great when pointed at the screen) br>* keep in mind that Dolphin, like the Wii, has a software setting for above/below TV placementbr>* the cable is embarrassingly short, but it does help with cable routing because you can simply run the extender cable to the TV and plug this in there. I had no complaints about the product's quality (despite the fact that it was only $6). 8) USB 2. There is no extension cable. Unpowered hubs have been reported to cause problems. br>br>My biggest hardware issue was not knowing which mode to use (if everything else wasn't so good, I'd take a star away). 1& 2 aren't designed to be used in video games. 3 is a good start, but it's not quite what you're looking for. Mode 4 is the best option. It's worth noting that you can switch modes using the Wiimote (press home and the D pad-- Each mode is represented by a different direction). The most serious problem is that you downloaded the wrong version from the wrong site, which wasn't up to date and wouldn't work. Use Dolphin's mode 4 and the most recent version. emu. org, and you'll be all right!.

Kelly HUMPHRIES

| Nov 29, 2021

I bought this instead of a cheap USB-powered sensor bar because it was only $8 more and I figured the extra functionality would be useful in the future, and I figured Mayflash would make a better product. br>However, the latest firmware update from Mayflash reveals that it is far too intelligent for its own good: br>"Once the Wiimote is disconnected, the infrared ray LED will be closed. " br>This means that if I just plug it into my TV's USB port or a wall outlet for power, the infrared LEDs will not turn on. br>I already have a working setup, and all I wanted was a sensor bar that didn't require an old Wii sitting in the corner acting as a very expensive LED power supply, but that won't do. I tried to 'downgrade' the firmware, but it does not appear to be possible.

Kassidy Thornton

| Aug 03, 2021

There's a lot more information that needs to be added to this. The following settings are required for it to function properly (using the Dolphin Emulator): 1. br>br> Set the computer as the default - My sensor bar did not have the PC / WiiU markings that the product image did, and for what it's worth, PC is "away" from the cable for me.
2. Mode 4 - This appears to be the reason for the sensor bar's ability to function as a pure Bluetooth pass-through. The other three "Modes" appear to try to use the Wii Mote as a mouse (I had limited success with this), so you should probably set it to Mode 4 and forget it. I was having a lot of trouble until I came across a random post on the forums that detailed the modes, so hopefully this will be of use to someone. br>br>Another star was taken away because I was unable to update the firmware on this device; I followed their instructions, but Windows 10 failed to recognize the device when it was put into flashing mode. I believe, but can't prove, that this is related to the FTDI Driver issue (search online, tl;dr). Windows does not recognize some versions of these chips because they are suspect). I'm wondering if the version I got was a clone now that I think about it. In any case, with the above settings, it works in my setup.

Princess Barker

| Aug 16, 2021

This was a year ago when I purchased it. I tried several different online instructions and videos when I first got it, but I couldn't get the Wii Mote to work with the trigger and A button. I got the same result regardless of which emulator I used. I didn't return or refund it because I didn't think it was the dolphinbar at the time. As a result, I made the decision to "put the wrench down" and return to this difficult task later. I tried again due to the pandemic and in an attempt to keep my mind off things. It's the same problem as before. So I went back to the internet to look for answers, and after hours of searching, I came across one post in a forum where the poster stated that the dolphinbar must be plugged into USB ports 1 or 2 on the Pi for the emulator to work properly, and that it wasn't well documented. I've added a lot of USB-powered lights and other USB devices to my arcade, in addition to the buttons and joysticks. I had purchased a powered USB hub, into which the dolphinbar had been plugged the entire time. So I swapped out one of the other USB devices and plugged the dolphinbar into a USB port next to the Pi's network port. When I restarted the game, several different emulators in the game config began to pick up the trigger and A button that I had been trying to get to work. I couldn't contain my joy. Except for one online forum poster, no video or online instructions that I could find mentioned that as a requirement. If you're having trouble with RetroPie, make sure it's connected to USB Port 1 or 2, which is next to the network port!! So, I'm off to hunt down some bad guys, ducks, aliens, or zombies.

Thalia Ochoa

| Dec 02, 2021