EasyHeat 2102 Freeze Free Heating Cable - 100'
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Gary, looping this cable over itself, in mid-air, to other nearby pipes, etc. is not a problem. There is never any risk of overheating with this self-regulating heating cable.
The heat plug, however, must be purchased separately.
Around 3 Watts per square foot. Ice guard cables have a power consumption of about 7 Watts per foot. One box (100 ft.) was all that was needed. I made two 25' cables and two 33' cables out of a single strand of cable. br>This one, at 25', has a draw of around 1. When you plug it in, it draws about 3 amps and then drops to around. When heated up, it draws 6 amps. The cable system is outstanding. One end cap is included with each plug in.
Greetings, Jon.br>I'm afraid I can't help you. This heating cable needs to be kept dry at all times. Take a look at the cable (or systems) that are designed to defrost or melt ice from the roof eaves and gutters. Then only use power when there is water flowing through it.
Selected User Reviews For EasyHeat 2102 Freeze Free Heating Cable - 100'
Here are some of the lessons I learned during my installation. Because I did not install the heat cable myself, I will refer to my installer when I say "I" in this review. In a vacation home in the Northern Arizona White Mountains, I installed 240 feet of this heat cable beneath the crawl space. This heat cable allows me to turn off the water instead of draining the pipes, allowing me to come in and simply turn on the water if I want to visit during the winter. A few observations from my installation are as follows: 1. br>br> If you'll need more than 300 feet of cable, go for the 300-foot roll. The maximum length of a single run is 75 feet. I was left with a number of 25-pound bags. I had 30ft sections left over from a 100ft roll that I couldn't use. I measured 75 feet for the longer runs and used a marker tape to indicate when I had reached the maximum length. I kept the runs close to 75 feet each to keep the number of heat cable circuits to a bare minimum.
2. Instead of using the manufacturer's recommended tape, we recommend using a good quality electrical tape. I wound the tape in a spiral to save time by not having to cut it to length all the time. br>3. This heat cable is turned on even when the temperature is not near freezing. When not in use, use a thermostat plug to turn it off and save electricity.
4. Calculating the circuit power requirements should be done with caution. A current requirement of 3W/ft is shown on the heat cable chart for my region. This heat cable, on the other hand, comes with a built-in thermostat. There is a much stronger rush current. 720W (6A) at 50 degrees (3W/ft * 240ft) is my steady state circuit requirement. However, the maximum cable draw was 1,440W (12A), or 6W/ft, for the first few minutes. When the weather gets a lot colder, this in-home heating system will come in handy. It's possible that the rush current will be increased. This winter, I'm putting it to the test so that when it gets really cold in January, I'll be prepared.
4. I was able to install it underneath the pipe rather than wrapping it around it for my installation. However, in some installations where the hot and cold copper pipes are close together, I don't see why the heat cable couldn't be wrapped around both hot and cold to make the installation go more smoothly. Where the pipes were close enough, I wrapped the insulation around both of them.
5. Other reviewers suggested using a monitoring device to ensure that the heat cable is functioning properly. Because I'm a bit of a nerd, I made my own and now use it to monitor the temperature of each heat cable circuit. If one of the pipes freezes, it sends me a text message as a warning. If you're working underneath the crawl space, the installation isn't easy. Electrical, thermostat, cable installation, insulation, and remote monitoring all took a week to complete. Nonetheless, it isn't rocket science; it simply requires a lot of time spent lying flat on your back in very small spaces. br>br>December 2018 Update: On a cold day, the 240 feet of heat cable, as predicted, tripped a 15A breaker upon startup. This is more than 7 watts per square foot. br>br>October 2019 Update: I added a controller that has both a thermostat and an 8-minute soft start for the heat cable. Over the winter, I'll be putting it to the test. In addition, the circuit will be upgraded to a 20A one. br>br>October 2020 Update: After putting the soft start controller to the test for 8 minutes, I discovered that my total cable in- At near-freezing temperatures, a rush current draw of 20 Amps AC is required. This refers to the soft-goods components I chose. They were underappreciated at the start. I replaced this simple design with a more complex one in which the thermostat controls the temperature of the heat cable between 35 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit. It also allows you to set an on time delay, which can help prevent multiple circuits from turning on at the same time, as I do with my four. My 270 feet of heat cable is connected to a 30 amp service that has been split into two 15 amp circuits, each with two heat cable systems. Based on what a proper thermostat/controller can do, this is a huge overkill. I'm testing my prototype this winter, so hopefully by March 2021, I'll have more information.
Because I live in Alaska, I've used a variety of heat tapes over the course of my nearly 40 years here. Installing the "easy heat" brand is surprisingly "easy. " Other heat tapes are a pain to work with, requiring heat shrink tubing, soldering, and so on; these, on the other hand, are incredibly simple to cut to any length you need, and can be done in under 5 minutes. You can now proceed. Despite the fact that my water line is well insulated, 20 feet from my house to below ground got me through a - The temperature is 43 degrees. For only 3 watts per square foot, this is quite impressive. On a P-100, I have a second of these installed. trap and my rented cabin, both of which had no issues. It worked flawlessly all the way down to - Alaska has been put through its paces. br>br>In my review, I thought I'd include one cautionary note. This cable isn't meant to be in contact with water, and it could short out. It's best to cover it with moisture-resistant fiberglass insulation. Either foil or plastic should be used. Against the heat tape, you'll want to use a noncombustible material. If your pipes have a tendency to "sweat" or are otherwise in a very moist environment, be extra cautious. In this case, a different type of cable might be more appropriate. This cable is designed to be used in dry conditions. br>br>Having said that, I've had it in wet conditions and had no problems, but there is the potential for issues.
Waterproofing the plugs is a simple process. Heat drink tubing was used to waterproof the end cap plug, which was then dipped in liquid tape. The interior of the plug harness was waterproofed by flooding it with liquid tape and then closing it up again. br>br>My lines are connected to a thermos cube outlet, which turns on at 35 degrees Fahrenheit and turns off at 48 degrees Fahrenheit. I'm ecstatic and relieved that I purchased this for my RV.
Thank you very much! Cut to length, and it performs exactly as described, if not better! Heat trace product that is far superior to what is available in any big or small hardware store comes highly recommended. Don't forget to bring a plug-in thermostat and a power cord. For ease of use and peace of mind, I connected mine to a switched outlet I had wired in my attic.
It takes a little time to set up the hookup and plug attachment, but it's worth it, and the instructions are clear. This cable heats only where and when it is required. The internal wires run through a semiconductor material, which heats up more as the temperature drops, and if only one part of the run is cold, it only heats that part. Previous versions of the software have been used by me. It's a fantastic idea that's also extremely dependable. Make sure to use the fused plug that comes with it. It has a good safety feature in case it shorts out, but I haven't had any problems with it so far.
This was used to keep the pipes of a customer from freezing in the winter. It's simple to put on and can be wrapped around itself, as shown in the box image. You'll need to buy the outlet plug separately, but they're not too expensive. I also suggest getting a thermostat to control when the product turns on, so it isn't on all the time. My customer chose Easy Heat's SL-100 thermostat, which was slightly more expensive. This isn't the thermostat that plugs into the wall. It comes with a built-in GFCI and more temperature-control options. I conducted extensive research in order to obtain the best product for my customer, and this was it.
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