Intermatic CD1-024R Compressor Defender Protects Central Air Conditioner / Heat Pump Compressors and Circuit Boards
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As a rule, you should use two AG3000s, or in my case, I use three AG3000s, unless your outdoor compressor (or heat pump) is more than 20 years old. This is what I want to There is a substantial difference between CD1 and CD2 The difference between the CD1 and the 024R is the CD1 has surge protection and short cycle It means that if you have a short-term power failure that lasts just a few seconds, the CD1 will prevent the compressor from starting immediately because this will damage it. As a result, virtually all compressors and heat pumps manufactured in the past 20 years have short-cycle protection built in to the unit, so the CD1 would extend the delayed startup from 3 minutes to about 5 minutes. I spent six minutes on this. CD1 is extremely expensive, and since it already has the feature you need, you may be wasting money for something you already have. You could test your unit by turning the circuit breaker off while your compressor is running, and then turning it back on after a few Look at the compressor to see if it comes on instantly when you turn on the breaker, or if it takes a few minutes to come on due to the delay. Two AG3000s are attached to my two stage 240 volt electric heating coil of my house's air handling unit, and one AG3000 is attached to my outdoor compressor. It is recommended to have a surge protector on every 240v line when using a two stage heating coil (three stage coils are also available). By doing it the way I did, I also protected my outside compressor and my indoor air handling and heating system. Usually, this is referred to as a point-based system Make sure you are protected. Adding to my safety, I also have an entire home surge protector installed on my circuit breaker box which suppresses surges at the mains and protects all electrical devices in my It is recommended that both be used, according to experts in this field. It is my hope that this will be helpful
As an ac tech, I can't tell you what voltage Y1 is, but it's 24 volts. Depending on what kind of unit you have. It depends on what model you have with the new I-force technology. In order to gain control, I went to the Internet The 24 volt input is controlled.
It should be connected to the outdoor unit's disconnect. Connect the two low voltage wires to the outdoor unit and connect the yellow wire (usually) to the y terminals. To use this method of connection, wire-nut one of the wires to the yellow wire, and connect the other to the terminal on the yellow wire.
It was hooked up using these wires by a previous commenter with the same unit. Then disconnect one of the low voltage wires from the control board, connect one of the two control wires to the point on the control board, and finally connect the other control wire to the disconnected low voltage wire, so that it is in series with the low voltage The orange wire on the D line on the control board was a red wire, but it doesn't matter what color it is to the electrons. I have a Carrier unit with a similar control system, so I plugged the Compressor Defender in series with it.
Selected User Reviews For Intermatic CD1-024R Compressor Defender Protects Central Air Conditioner / Heat Pump Compressors and Circuit Boards
I think this product is OK, but is more suited to older systems that don't already have the latest technology integrated into the outdoor compressor unit's control board. To be more specific The 240-page report does not include a table of contents It seems the voltage protection for a typical surge protection device (SPD) is enough, however the 24-volt seems to be inadequate On most HVAC systems built over the last 20 years, the volt line on the Compressor Defender will be redundant. In the case of the 24-volt system, the Compressor Defender will not protect against surges There is only one thing the 24-volt line is used for supplying power to the compressor control board, which is located outside, from the thermostat, and to the air handler unit inside. Compressor Defender has 24-volt line, so after a power failure (whether for a few seconds or a few hours), the 24-volt line will step on within 3 seconds, which will automatically shut off the compressor and recompress it. Three minutes are lost when the volt line on the compressor defender is connected to the compressor control board. As a precautionary measure, you should not allow the compressor to run for too short a time before restarting it in order to avoid what is called a "compressor short cycle. " The majority of today's outdoor compressors and heat pumps have a 5 to 6 minute short-cycle protection circuit built in As a result, when the Compressor Defender's 24-inch screen is connected, In addition to two delays, you will end up with a double delay if you connect your 24 volt lines to the compressor control board. Unfortunately, reading the product listing information and description will not make it clear that the 24-inch video game console is a console released in 2013 It consists of two 12-volt The only way I discovered this was after purchasing the product and talking with their tech support team. There are a couple of amateurish techs working for Intermatic who aren't really qualified for tech support position if you happen to encounter them like the first tech I spoke with who shouldn't be in tech support position in the first place. The person hung up on me after I asked to speak with someone else When I called back, I spoke to the person next to me, and he was much more helpful and knowledgeable about electrical components. As a result, you spend roughly two times as much on the Intermatic CD1-S The protection system for the volt short-circuit). As an alternative, the Siemens FirstSurge FS140 - a far superior product for surge protection than either of these products (I have reviewed the Siemens product too) - is a great choice. Please note EDIT A very good article on Whole-Foods can be found by clicking the above link The House Surge Protection Devices is a third party product review written by a third party reviewer who evaluates a small number Another third-party article I found noted that two-times as many men as women are divorced There is tier-based protection, where you have surge protectors on your service panel and on your points The strip type) is an effective way of protecting your electrical equipment. Generally, most people are not aware that a considerable amount of damage is also caused by phone lines, cable/satellite connections, etc. Therefore, anything connected to them (e. g. Televisions, cable and satellite receivers, modems, routers, cordless and corded phones) face exposure on coax lines and modular phone lines without additional protection.
In a nutshell, I knew that for me this would work, because my 5 year old compressor did not have electronic boards or numerous relays, only a starter cap and contactor (24 V relay) plus the compressor, so I knew this would work. In the beginning, Intermatic had an mp4 video that took a long time to run, so I downloaded it, then I You will need to wait for half an hour for this It will take longer to install than it will to remove. When I attempted to upload it to AMAZON, You can see how to physically hook it up to the AC disconnect in the video. The manual does not mention this. In addition to the manual, they also have it available for summary, for those with an understanding of this, the white wire in the disconnect is connected to ground, while the two black ones are connected to the wires that provide power for the disconnect. Essentially, you untighten each screw, insert the wire, then tighten each new screw. Make it tighter. You insert the red and black wires between the thermostat and the contactor of the compressor, essentially connecting it between them, using the long thick cable that connects to the 24V wire inside the compressor by unscrewing the wire nut that connects your Y1 cable. Thus you now have your Y1 cable connected to the Compressor Defender as well. The following is a tip for beginners Please read the following before ordering By attempting to unscrew the three screws in the AC Disconnect and then screwing them back in (with the main switched off and verified off of course), you can make sure that nothing is jammed or broken. Increasing the tension. Doing this first will give you a pretty good idea as to whether the installation will go smoothly, or if you might end up replacing a stripped out old AC Disconnect box as well. A brief description of what CD1 is What the 024R does is to break the Y1 connection when the voltage is low or there is a power failure. During its non-interactive portion, three minutes will be allotted. It is possible to adjust the If you turn the power back on after 3 minutes, the compressor will not come on until it has been running for FEEL FREE TO READ THE INSTRUCTIONS AND TRY NOT TO KILL YOURSELF. In the event you do not usually deal with electricity, HAVE AN ELECTRICIAN OR AC guy (preferable) perform it. You need to be calm for about 20 minutes to complete this. Additionally, you need a wire cutter and a set of strippers. A second wire nut is also required (a small, good one that has a metal spring inside, not one of the cheap It is also necessary to have UV-B Ties made of plastic that are suitable. They will all crack and eventually fall off from the sun if they use the clear or white kind. UV-rated packages are available at HD or LOWES, and they are marked on the packaging with They are resilient. Let's face it, even if you're an AC expert or an electrician, there are a few tips you can use. There are two options for where you should connect the two black power wires. They can be either ON both LINES or ON In a standard installation based on the instruction manual, and the sticker on the unit, it appears the CD1-A can be connected to the Internet via LINE (which appears to be the default installation). Despite removing the disconnect, the 024 continues to operate even when you disconnect it. If you connect them to the load, it goes off when the disconnect is off. No other information is provided in the instructions besides the fact that both are acceptable. Due to the label on the outside of the unit indicating that it is tied to a LINE, I connected it in that manner for safety reasons (the label matches the circuit), even though I preferred connecting it to a When an AC guy pulls the breaker, if the breaker is connected to LINE, it does not reset immediately. He must wait 3 minutes before he can connect it again. In the end, I guess there's no perfect solution, but how the unit is run makes little difference, whether it's It is standard to connect to LINE during installation. It is important to note that the label and instructions are not consistent. Take a look inside the unit before choosing the knock out to use to determine how much space it will take. Punch holes in a knock out so as not to hole out more than you need, as this would compromise your safety Be sure that the knockouts are the correct size. Because the nip of the unit that goes into the disconnect is plastic, do not oversize it. Make it tighter. There may not be enough room inside this condenser, so installing it within the condenser may not be a good idea. Furthermore, you can't see the status LEDs when it is inside.
The LEDS are on the side, so you should think about being able to see them when deciding which side of the AC disconnect you want. With a video surveillance system, you may want the LEDS facing the camera if the camera points toward your unit. Among the items in the box is a white piece of tubing. The 120V circuit is the only one that can be used. I found the installation to be easy. Moreover, it seems to be that they are saying their white wire goes to the neutral, however for a strictly 240V circuit, there is no neutral. It is stated in their video that ground is Prior to installing this, I would advise getting in touch with any neutral (for a 120V/240V) that they may have. * * **Br/*- It is at the user's own risk (always) to use this review.
Can it really be relied upon? This has been my investment for a few months now, and I finally had a professional install the My house has been experiencing a lot of brown outs lately. The system appeared to be working well. Whenever the power would go out outside the unit, check it and call the utility This is true. Yesterday, I had a brown out at my house where power fickers were on & The unit turned off suddenly, so I went outside to check it. Compressor Defender was on, but it was making a loud noise when it launched to restart while pressure dropped. A/C unit still ran, and Compressor Defender status light was green, but the compressor made a loud noise when it launched to restart. I see that the unit did not shut down properly. I'm worried about that. In most cases, the outside compressor should have been shut off and kicked in by the compressor Defender. This time did not work for Brown Out.
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