SE Disc Cutter with 4 Heart Punches Set (4 PC.) - JT-SP322-4HRT
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It can punch coins, but quarters cannot be centered for the 5/8, 7/16, or 3/8 holes because they run into the metal at the back of the slot where the material to be cut is placed.
There is no such thing as a lever. You place your metal in the slot between the two die pieces, punch it out with the appropriate size punch, and smack it with a deadblow or other hammer until the round metal slug falls through. To avoid mushrooming the top of the punch, I use a soft-faced deadblow hammer.
I cut automotive sheet metal with mine, but I'm not sure what gauge it was.
Yes, I'm sure they can, because I've cut 20 gauge copper with mine, and a canning lid is much thinner. The key to success with this and all cutting tools is to keep them lubed, whether with cut lube or WD40. They quickly become boring and useless if not used properly.
Selected User Reviews For SE Disc Cutter with 4 Heart Punches Set (4 PC.) - JT-SP322-4HRT
After some trial and error, I can now use it to perfect circles nearly every time. The only downside is that because the holes are so close together (and one of them is right next to the solid edge), you can't always use it to punch a smaller circle through a larger circle. However, this is an excellent tool for the money. User advice: br>br> 1) MAKE USE OF BABY OIL. Every time, the plug is all over the place. It has a significant impact. 2) ANNEAL FIRST (torch fire) when working with 22 ga copper/silver/24 ga bronze/brass or thicker. You'll have a much easier time dealing with the metal. 3) For the first few times, you might want to draw a circle on your metal so you can see if it's centered by looking down through the hole. Given the high cost of silver, I continue to do so. 4) To punch through the plug, use a HEAVY BRASS HAMMER. A steel hammer will harden the plug, reducing its life span, and a rawhide mallet simply won't do the job. A $12 two-pound brass hammer from the hardware store works perfectly for punching through the plug on the first attempt. The rawhide mallet required several attempts, resulting in scarring and warping of the metal. 4) Make a note of which end of the plugs you can hit by marking the tops of the plugs. 5) Texture the metal only after it has been cut out of the disc cutter. I tried rolling texture onto 30 ga copper and then punching out discs, but most of the texture was lost in the process. First, punch, then roll, hammer, or etch. br>br>Also, for the first few times, I'd recommend using a cheap metal (copper rather than silver) and two people. The first time I dropped one of the plugs on the cement floor, I was fortunate that the cutting edge was not damaged.
This is not a high-end disc cutter, so don't expect it to be. It will cut your discs with a slight burr, but it will cut them pretty cleanly (after the first few cuts-- I'm not sure how good the metal is that it's made of). br>br>My only major criticism is the interstitial spacing. When cutting gauge thickness metal, it's set at almost 1/8", which is a huge difference. While the screws can be removed, there are pins that appear to be pressed in place. This means you won't be able to separate the pieces and adjust the thickness.
I was hand-cutting the shape out of 22 gauge sterling silver sheet, which took a long time to cut and file; cutting with this tool is SO FAST! It appeals to me. br>br>To stabilize and cut lube, I use a small wood shim.
I had to have my husband remachine a couple of the holes to get the pegs to fit, but for $40, I'm not complaining. Because I constantly have to disassemble it to get the pegs out, I removed the screws and replaced them with pins. It's inconvenient because I have to disassemble it in order to remove the pegs from the metal rather than simply hammering them through; The ones without the enlarged heads are my favorites.
It began to tear the edges after only 30 discs of 28 Ga Nickel Silver (Soft copper alloy) were cut out. Punches tended to get stuck all the time. It became unusable after 50 discs. I took it back to Amazon and returned it. Invest in a higher-quality unit rather than this one.
Many people complained about the rusting and inability to cut through it. I use 18 to 24 gauge copper and sterling sheets and have only had one strike slip; I use a simple heavy flat headed hammer on my anvil and can get through in under three strikes. It is suggested that you use WD-40. 40 to grease it up so that a clean cut can be made. It's just that I wish it had a 1 on it. The hole is 5 inches in diameter.
There is no way to clamp down on the metal before you cut, which means a lot of movement and marks on your metal, which I was unable to see when I purchased this. I can't afford to waste any time in order to save $100 - I should've bought something else.
The punch and die set was greasy and had sharp edges when it arrived. I noticed the die was loose and falling apart, so I returned it for a refund.
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