Porter Cable C2002/C2005 Air Compressor OEM (2 Pack) Replacement A17038 Drain Valve # N286039-2pk
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For this size fitting, it is "standard pipe thread." This male fitting has a slight "taper" to it that tightens as you turn it. It's even pre-loaded with information. A joint tape has been applied to the subject. If you're using it for something other than a compressor tank drain, any female pipe fitting should suffice. In the past, I had a large stationary compressor and created an extension with standard brass nipples, elbows, and a coupler. Everything appeared to be in place. Instead of using one of these tiny spin valves, I used a quarter-turn valve in that case. To get a much faster air dump, replace the drain valve with a ball valve. This was, however, a 50 gallon tank with a 2-foot diameter. stage, 2- a 220 volt electric motor and a cylinder pump
Despite the fact that they claim it is compatible, it did not fit my needs. My previous one had a grooved area where a small rubber washer could be inserted. It came to a halt. I looked for a replacement but couldn't find one, so I bought these, which are too large to screw into the port.
I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to say. The drain valve is usually opened at the end of each day to allow moisture to escape. This valve is designed to work with pancake-style compressors that can hold up to 150 psi of pressure.
Yes, if the thread is 1/4NPT.
Selected User Reviews For Porter Cable C2002/C2005 Air Compressor OEM (2 Pack) Replacement A17038 Drain Valve # N286039-2pk
Porter Cable provides me with a 6 gallon pancake air compressor. I was able to use these drain plugs. They're not exactly the same as the OEM, but I've had no problems with them. The OEM lasted 5 years, so I should be good for another 10 years with a double package of these. It was also delivered quickly.
My Porter Cable 6-foot Cable After draining the condensation from the tank, the gal compressor would not hold air. It was simple to find the source of the problem. The air was leaking from the drain valve. I expected to have a difficult time finding the right replacement valve, but I came across these on Amazon and decided to give them a shot. They are extremely comfortable to wear. If you have a 9/16 box/open wrench, use it. I skinned a knuckle with an adjustable wrench. I'm so thankful I came across these. I was dreading the prospect of having to purchase a new compressor, and now I won't have to. Thank you so much, George!.
My 3. After 6 years of use, the drain valve on my 5 gallon pancake compressor has sprung a leak. I came across this item while searching for a replacement part and thought it looked different than the previous valve. This appears to be a new design that is more functional. To open or close it before, I had to twist in the opposite direction. This new one has returned to the "lefty loosey righty tighty" design, making it easier for me to remember which way to turn to open or close the valve. The only minor issue I have is that when I open the value to let air out, it does not fully escape unless I tilt the compressor to let the last of the air out. This wasn't necessary with the previous design.
Crossing threads is not a good idea! After spraying it with WD40 to make sure it wasn't rusted on, I removed the old one. It was more than enough to sit for 5 minutes. I unscrewed the old one with a socket (straight out) to avoid cross threading by ensuring I did not unscrew it at an angle. The threads on the tank's bottom were clear after a quick visual inspection. CHECK TO SEE IF ANYTHING COMES OUT OF THE TANK AND GETS STUCK ON THE THREADS. If that's the case, use an old toothbrush to scrub the area clean. I replaced the old one with a new one that included anti-virus software. BY HAND FIRST, seize the item that is already on it. If you can with your hands, make sure the threads grab at least 1/4 way. Cross threading is prevented as a result of this. If you don't have a maintenance manual for it, just make sure it's good and tight. It doesn't have to be tightened to the point where it won't turn on threads any longer. Tighten until you're satisfied with the fit, then check for leaks. Mine worked perfectly, and I have a spare because I ordered a pack of two. AWESOME!.
It's supposed to fit, but it doesn't! This is the fourth drain plug I've bought (from various parts stores, both brick and mortar and online), and I still can't find one that fits! Not to mention that neither of the two I bought on Amazon are returnable or exchangeable! I say, "damn!" Damn!.
I was initially concerned that the new replacement plug was the incorrect size, so I contacted Porter-Cable. The part of the original drain plug that appeared to be welded to the outside of the tank, as well as the inner plug piece, needed to be unscrewed, according to Cable customer service. With a little muscle work, Vice grips removed the outer piece. The new replacement plug went in easily, and my air compressor was fully pressurized once more. For my Porter-Cable, this is an excellent replacement drain plug. Air compressor, Cable Model C2002, Type 7!.
To clean up the female threads, I had to buy a pricey tap. The second part of the order was a little easier to screw in and appears to be working. My compressor tank, on the other hand, appears to have been damaged by the first valve. If I ever need to replace the valve, I doubt I'll be able to do so through the screw hole. Perhaps this is how Porter Cable increases the number of compressors it sells.
I have the Porta cable c2002, and this product is far superior to what came with the compressor. It is made of solid brass, and the drain valve operates smoothly as butter. The most difficult part of the installation was breaking the old plug loose, but once that was done, the new one went in perfectly. I have yet to find anything negative to say about this product.
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