Shingle Froe Tool, 15in Splitting Froe Blade with 18in Froe Knife Handle – Froe Axe, Kindling Axe, Wood Froe Tool
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It seems that the handle broke in half after the first use.
The country I think of is China. There are no marks on the paper
Considering how heavy it is, it shouldn't be a problem at all
Both the eye and the blade are welded together
Selected User Reviews For Shingle Froe Tool, 15in Splitting Froe Blade with 18in Froe Knife Handle – Froe Axe, Kindling Axe, Wood Froe Tool
FROE stands for Free Software Open Embedded. It's not a terrible tool to start with or throw away, but for the price, it's not a good one either. My package just arrived today. I really didn't expect much and it didn't surprise me in the least. Despite its reasonable size, the handle has a good grip. Having decided to leave it outside for a couple weeks, I've coated it with teak oil. It will be by the firepit for a couple weeks, so teak would be a good choice. The boiled linseed would have probably been the best option if it were to be primarily used indoors. In other words, the Although the steel itself does seem a little wavey, it was more like a Queens wave than a caffeinated three year olds wave. However, after filing off the copious amounts of paint, the edge itself surfaces flat. It's not a plane, so it's really not even a chisel or a planer. This is primarily used to break off a chunk of wood from a larger piece of wood, and the split follows the grain lines most often. It will be necessary to buy a saw mill if you expect a mill quality first cut. You should save up and buy one If it can accomplish its intended task of cutting one slab of wood into two, with reasonably flat sides that can be planed or drawn on, then it appears to be a reasonably efficient machine - Lie flat on the knife. It is made of This knife is not only nowhere near the top notch, but also nowhere near the top notch prices for a high carbon carbide edged one. fix is to not use a metal-based hammer to drive it through the cut when the steel feels kinda soft under the file. For the last few hundred years, kindling has worked just as well as mallets if you are low on mallets. Neither this review nor its author has been paid for, the company would want their In addition, there is no intent to imply that any of the previous reviews have been malicious, but I am offering an honest assessment of the points I read before purchasing. It is likely that the weld will fail in the near future. If it fails, I will buy another, possibly of a different brand or style, depending on the extent of my need for No matter what, I plan to have a good piece of steel and a beater stick on hand.
The entire piece of garbage that this is is quite shocking. The blade was not only not even close to sharp (there was no evidence of a blade), there were 1/8" deep divets in that thing, once I put it on the bench grinder for 45 minutes to put an edge on it. What the heck? After I've managed to put an edge on it and give it a try I'll report back The steel has not been heat treated, as can be seen. After a good knock with a hammer, it bent like paper. This is truly a terrible and offensive product. Shame on Amazon for selling it.
In addition to purchasing the Shrade handheld froe (SCHF64CP), I bought this froe as well. It seemed like a better tool to break down a 16" log into smaller kindling with the larger froe. The reason for my request was solid, but this particular tool does not fulfill it. Listed below are the reasons I think it was such a colossal failure. I measured the blade thickness to be 5. 8 mm and found it not to be thick enough to do any significant work. The thickness I measured with my calipers was 4 mm. The second change is that instead of the blade profile being shaped like a wedge for chopping, it is flat on one side like a bread knife.
Would I recommend this product? There is no. What is my opinion of this tool? Would I recommend it There is no.
My version of the device was a lot worse than the one I got, but it may be a good value for the money. I would like to draw your attention to a couple of points.
First of all, I have used others in the past. Sadly, my old iron one has become rusted and is in need of replacement. A maul (made from the trunk of a dogwood tree) instead of a metal hammer is also the proper way to use them. Due to this, I understand that a froe blade should not be sharpened too heavily to prevent chipping. Especially when the steel is too hard. This blank seems tempered to be quite hard. I am not sure if the Chinese manufacturers intended to achieve that hardness or if they were of a chisel tempering. Although it is lightweight, this actually doesn't work in your favor since it has quite a bit more reflecting space between the materials Iron fres have a higher vibration than blowing vibration. My only problem is that I have yet to split a piece of oak. It is about 5 inches wide and has been one year old. I have tried splitting some of it. About 2 inches of it gets stuck in the ground. It is not possible to keep the thin blade from binding entirely due to its thin wedging force. There's no way I'm going to beat it with a metal hammer and bend over the Aside from that, I would imagine that the vibration that results from hitting it with metal would be detrimental to the process.
The kindling splitter is primarily used for splitting logs. It has a blunt edge, so it is safe to handle. In the event that you prefer, you may sharpen it, but I didn't bother. No slivers of wood are visible in the handle due to its solid construction. There are no problems with the weld joining the blade and the eye. With this, there is no chance of injury. I am sure I am wrong, but I'm sure someone else is. Even so, they should save themselves the trouble of going into the gene pool!.
It was a pleasant surprise to find out that this tool is so good. I took a risk by buying this froe without listening to any reviews or having any experience with what to expect. The package arrived on time and I started working on it right away. I was disappointed with the first impressions. It is understood that the blade is not to be sharp, but I found it way too dull to be effective. As a result, I moved the edge downward and it became faster and easier to use. Having said that, the handle is my only concern with this froe. Wood tool handles tend to leak oil, which is a bad sign for a wood tool handle built to last. The handle doesn't do too much work, but I believe that given its task, this handle will eventually fail. In addition, this is an excellent tool that deserves to be recommended.
I ordered it from China and it works fine. Shingles took some time to make since the bevel had to be sharpened off I think it is better if you have a general point. To grind or file heavily, you'll need a heavy tool. From scrap wood, I made some test shingles that turned out really well. If you make a large wooden hammer, you will get good results. I hope the handle does not break because it is very cheap. Whatever the case, the blade is still in good condition. There is a loose bolt on the frame, but it does not affect my use of it. Gets the job done with a score of 4/5.
It's a bad time for Broe. This is an extremely blunt statement. A hollow-pointed hatchet or axe from Home Depot will do the job just as well. Wood is never bitten by it in any way- A bounce just happens. You won't lose money if you don't waste it. If I could return it, I would, but I tried sharpening it and it did not help.
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