Art3d 3D Paneling Textured 3D Wall Design, Black Diamond, 19.7" x 19.7" (12 Pack)
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Gluing on the wall with all-purpose adhesive
There isn't any other option, in my opinion. I had to use contact cement to get my mines to stick because the glue recommended by Amazon didn't work.
Your wall must be bare, with no paint or sanding. I've got mine mounted with Velcro that can hold up to 20 pounds.
I bought Wiremold Plastic Nonmetallic Raceway, Extending Power, On-Demand from Amazon. Instead, use the NMW35 Wall Extra Deep Box in White.
Selected User Reviews For Art3d 3D Paneling Textured 3D Wall Design, Black Diamond, 19.7" x 19.7" (12 Pack)
I wanted to install a floating wall with a TV and fireplace in a guest bedroom that I was remodeling. I considered using dry stack stone for this wall, but it would be expensive, messy, and time-consuming. I'm glad I chose these 3D panels over the other options. They have left an impression on everyone who has seen them. I made the floating wall out of three different types of materials. 1/2" steel studs were used, and 1/2" OSB was used to cover it. I primed it with white Kilz (to hide any gaps in the panels) and adhered the tiles with double-sided carpet tape. The tiles are absolutely gorgeous. If you're going to make a floating wall, I recommend making it the same size as the number of tiles you'll be using (width and height). Unless it butts up against an adjoining wall, I don't think you could make a cut edge look finished. I used the plastic drywall finishing edge from the local Big Box hardware store to cover the OSB (plywood) edge (see second photo). I left about 4 inches of overhang on all sides and mounted these chasing LEDs from Amazon, as well as an angled channel TV mount and a fireplace. Internally bracing the TV mount location with 2x4" wood and running a power cord to that area while building the steel stud wall. br>br>I cut the panels for the bottom row with a table saw, but a handsaw or really good scissors would have sufficed. These panels have a good thickness to them and are not at all flimsy. The panels have microscopic gaps between them, but they are only visible up close. If the gaps are a concern, I recommend mounting the panels first, then filling in the gaps and painting the panels with plastic paint. BTW, the electric fireplace generates a lot of heat (mostly forward and upward), but it has had no effect on the tiles.
Read on for a complete installation tutorial (one of many)br>br>First and foremost, the description says "32 sq feet," which most people who aren't familiar with the metric system translate to "8x4", which is the standard size for most plywood sheets. These panels, on the other hand, are 19 inches wide. 65625 x 19 is a number that can be multiplied by 656 65625 As a result, they do not cover a standard 8x4 plywood sheet. br>br>I didn't want to ruin my drywall if I didn't like the tiles, so I decided to cover it with a backer board so that I could remove it/the tiles if necessary. When it comes to removing liquid nails or double-sided tape from drywall, it's a recipe for disaster. br>br>At Menards, I paid $5 for three sheets of 4x4 hardboard. Each one is worth $50. I didn't want to use liquid nails because I didn't want to make a mess, so I went with double-sided tape instead. For $10 a roll, I purchased three 150-foot Gorilla heavy-duty rolls. So the total cost of the project, including the 3D panels, came to around $130. br>br>The box contains 12 tiles, and I was able to fit 6 length-wise. I hung it on my wall with about 7 inches to spare. As a result, I chose to make two rows of six panels. 1. br>br> I chose number 19 as my number. 117 15/16 and 19 were obtained by multiplying 65625 by 6. To get 39 5/16, multiply 65625 by two. So I knew that was the size I needed for my backer board. 2. br>br>1. br>br>br>br>br>br I spread the sheets out on the floor, measured, marked, and drew straight edge lines across the marks. 3. br>br>4. br>br>5. br>br>6. I used my circular saw to cut the sheets. (Cutting with the grain yields excellent results)br>br>4. I brought the sheets inside and marked the first sheet's edge on the wall, as well as the stud lines above the sheets, so I knew where to screw in so I didn't hit the studs. br>br>5. I screwed the panels into the stud points in the wall. I hammered some nails into the corners of the sheets that weren't close to a stud to keep them from coming away from the wall. 6. br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br> I used double-sided tape to frame the entire structure. In the direct center, I added a line of tape as well. This ensured that the panels had at least two points of contact with the tape in every location. br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br> If you make a mistake and pull the tape off the hardboard, it will not stick again, so you'll have to start over. 7. br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br> I carefully positioned the 3D panels on the wall and taped them down firmly. Take your time peeling the panels away from the tape; it's a difficult task. 8. br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br> To ensure that all of the panels were in good contact with the tape, I ran my finger along all of the edges slowly. 9. br>br> I had a lot of fun with my new wall. br>br>I hope this information is useful. These panels are absolutely fantastic. They can make a lovely feature wall with a little forethought and patience.
They're fantastic tiles; none of the four boxes I bought had any flaws. The tiles measure 50cm by 50cm in size. br>br>I am very pleased with the outcome of my project; these are excellent plastic tiles. Before you buy, keep in mind that the layout of the tiles does not change; they are all identical. To try to hide the obvious pattern, I alternated them at a 90-degree angle. I attached them to a primed wall using DAP silicone adhesive (also available on Amazon). br>br>Please keep in mind that the tiles are WHITE! I used spray paint to make mine silver. If you want to keep the tiles white, they look great on their own.
I really like the product, and it was very simple to set up. That's all there is to it. I used Scotch double-sided tape. Oh, and I painted the wall black first to make it stand out even more. This is something I would strongly suggest to anyone.
It's simple to put together, but cutting straight can be challenging! So I decided to use it as a backsplash, and everything was going swimmingly until I needed to cut and install them around a window. What a nightmare! None of the trims I brought would lay flush and would slide down. So I had to buy some corner trim and secure it with double-sided tape, clear gorilla glue, and weights until it dried. Also, if you install this where light switches or socket switches are, the switch plates will not lay flat. I use metal plates because the plastic plates would crack if I used them and screwed them tight to try to make them lay flat! I'm a woman, and I think I did reasonably well. However, if you're handy or a carpenter, I'm sure you could have done a better job than I did. In any case, I've attached some photos.
It was a breeze to put these together. As suggested by many others, I used a roll of double-sided scotch tape. I used some long nose sheer snips to cut them. So far, they've held up well and I think they look great.
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