American Standard Champion Kit 241 F/Close Coupled Champion 2 PC

There is no way, no how, no way, absolutely, positively NO WAY does this fit a Champion In the photos above you can see the difference between a Champion 4 gasket (green) and the kit gasket (black), and what I had to buy to solve problems caused by the kit. There is definitely more thickness to the gasket included in this kit. Additionally, the bolts in the kit are brass rather than steel. In the original toilet, stainless steel was used. There were other reviews that mentioned this as well. Since I bought it and it failed me in January I was too mad to write a review, but now that I have a little bit of time to calm down I am writing one now. So much so that I bought a second Champion 4 for my other bathroom after I loved the first one so much. one was roughly 3 years old when it started leaking through the flapper seal, leading to an extra $50 charge on my water bill each As it was still under warranty, I calculated to not file a claim since the toilet was replaced as part of a massive renovation. My Lowe's receipt is somewhere in a stack of $30k worth of receipts, so I decided there wasn't much sense in pursuing it. I wanted to be safe by doing it properly because since I liked how my toilet operated and couldn't see the leak in the flapper seal (I saw it after the seal was removed, a clear mfg defect), I wanted to play it safe and not risk anything. In fact, why would I put the tank back on with a 3 year old seal? I recently bought a new flush tower assembly and this tank kit. Adding all costs together, I estimated it would cost less than a month's worth of extra water bills that were caused by the leak. As you can see in the picture, the kit came with a different looking seal (see picture), but it claimed it was a direct fit for the This is my second read As I checked the description, even found that American Standard claimed that the new seal design was acceptable in one of the response areas, I proceeded to order the new seal design. As I reinstalled the tank with a new flush tower and this seal kit, I alternated tightening the tank mount bolts back and forth about half a turn apiece (as I have done for every toilet tank I have installed At the time the tank was sitting on the base, it was approximately 1/4" away from the seat. Before turning on the water, I was unable to see anything until I found the crack in the tank leaking water into the house. Because there were no replacement tanks that I could find that would cost less than a whole toilet, and since I needed it to work before my wife got home from work I bought a whole new toilet and installed it. A bonus to 6GPF champion 4 is its ease of The toilet I have in my garage is still under warranty, and it's disassembled with a cracked tank and a faulty flapper valve, and I have the new American Standard flush tower that I bought for it. It was the American Standard tank seal kit that led to all of this. If I had bought a sledgehammer, I could have easily removed the leaking flapper valve from the start. To make matters worse, it seems that the other toilet (Champion 4 #1) fill valve opened just before my water bill was If I get you clowns from American Standard to come to my house and fix this one, and take all your old broken junk when you leave, I'll sue you, and I'm not playing around. Here, let me just say it's not going to go well for you.

Maia Mendez

| Jul 17, 2021

It's time for American Standard to step up Original American Standard bolts and nuts were made of stainless steel. This kit does not have stainless steel parts. Plating makes the bolts and nuts look shiny and new. They were doomed to fail in the future and rotted out as a result in order to make the job harder to complete the next time. And there will be a next time since the rubber grommets for the bolts only last about three years before they I am challenging the folks at American Standard, will they bring back the stainless steel bolts? Is there any reason why the bolt grommets should be urethane rather than You can charge me an extra $3 bucks, I'll pay it for not having to change the substandard product you currently provide.

Jasper Dorsey

| May 21, 2021

It is especially critical that the tank be bolted on tightly to the base of the Champion Series. With this, the tank is supported in the front by the raised ribs and in the back by the raised numbs on the base so that the tank won't Moreover, it squeezes the large gasket that seals the water openings between the tank and bowl, and it compresses the rubber stem washers that sit under the bolts to death. The bolts will compress to about half their thickness once the nuts are tightened, which is why it is not recommended you reuse them. Prior to tightening the bolts, you should check that the gasket is correctly installed, that the tank is positioned as evenly as possible, and that the bolts (still loose) are lined up vertically and not at an angle, which may indicate the tank is not seated correctly. What is the tightness of the screw? If you put too much pressure on the tank, the base, or both, it will crack. Put together the ratchet and socket with an extension using a small ratchet. The best course is to stay away from anything else and you're likely to crack the tank or chip the If using the socket and extension, snug the nugs finger tight without using the Once this is done, tighten each bolt a little at a time, going back and forth when fitting each bolt Maintaining an even pressure is kept this way. In front you should see a black circle near the black nub. When the tank nearly touches the black nub, keep moving, further tighen slowly and slide a piece of paper over it to determine if the tank is yet touching it. As you slide the paper through, you'll eventually reach a point where it can't pass through anymore DON'T GO ANYFURTHER! I recommend that you do not touch that bolt again unless you want to remove it and replace the whole There will be more torque than what you might expect and more torque than you will need on most toilets.

Alaiya Bright

| Jun 16, 2021