Arlington LV2-1CS Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 2-Gang, 1-Pack
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Yes, any two. The four matching holes on the gang faceplate should be used to secure it in place.
It all comes down to the strength of your drywall in a vertical position. Drywall can support a certain amount of weight before sagging and cracking. Drywall, on the other hand, isn't designed to withstand a lot of movement. br>If this camera can be mounted to a ceiling fixture gang box, I believe the best option is to find a wall stud and install a "ceiling fan saddle box" instead - Look for it on the internet. I also suggest the Hanson 03040 magnetic stud finder for locating a wall stud - It's fantastic and cheap.br>Once you've found the stud, carefully cut a hole in the drywall to expose it. Trace the outline of the saddle box and cut the final circular hole from the center around the stud. The saddle box can then be inserted into the wall and hugged against the wooden stud. The bolts should then be screwed in through the stud. You'll have a very sturdy mounting point through which you can also run cabling.
Hard to say; did you cut a large enough hole in the dry wall for the adapter, which should be flush with the dry wall? When you mount the adapter to the face plate, it should do the same. You haven't specified what you're going to install. This only applies to telephone, television, and speaker wire. Only for low-voltage applications.
I'm not sure I understand the question; the item listed is what a faceplate would attach to. All U. Standard double gang faceplates will fit; simply look around your house for something with two switches (side by side) and measure them. I hope this information is useful.
Selected User Reviews For Arlington LV2-1CS Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 2-Gang, 1-Pack
I needed to add a more professional-looking element to the piece. I'm looking for some CAT5 drops on a wall panel. The sight of wires protruding from the walls was a real annoyance. br>br>I've added wall plates to wall cutouts in the past. Dry wall anchors, rather than traditional wall plate screws, are used to hang outs directly. While this method works, it is time consuming to level the holes, especially if the anchors do not catch the wall properly or the screws strip the anchors. It is extremely inconvenient. br>br>When I saw these, I knew I had to try them. br>br>In accordance with the instructions, I drew an outline with a pencil. I then used a drywall saw to cut out the outline, and all I had to do was make a few minor adjustments to the drywall hole to make the bracket fit. Once it was in place, I simply tightened the two included screws, and the built-in vices clamped against the opposite wall. Wow! br>br>Wow, wow, wow, wow, wow, wow, wow, wo Much easier! Snug and perfect! All I had to do was screw my new wall plate in place with the original screws. Perfect and expert-looking- looking! br>br>I strongly advise any installers or do-it-yourselfers to pick this up. self-starters Wires protruding from the walls are a no-no!.
This mounting bracket worked perfectly for my needs (I was installing a 5. 1 wall plate for surround sound distribution). The installation instructions are limited, which is why I only gave it four stars. They specifically instruct you to use the inside of the bracket as a template for where to cut on the wall, but because whatever you sketch with this will inevitably be too small, you must cut outside of the lines you just drew. The issue is that it's not clear how far outside the lines you should go. Even if you use a face plate, if you go too far, you'll end up with an exposed hole. If you don't go far enough, the bracket will not fit. The manufacturer had the option of providing a properly-functioning product. template that is the right size Obviously, if the face plate you're using is particularly large, this will be less of a problem. Before you start working, make sure everything is in order. br>br>My advice is as follows: Err on the side of having a small initial hold and carve it out a little further as needed with course grit sandpaper or a very sharp drywall knife (a drywall saw will not be as effective for removing a small amount of drywall). I used a dremel to do it. To enlarge the hole to the required size, use a rotary tool with a sander head.
Simply place the bracket where you want a wall plate and use a pencil to trace around the inside of it. Cut the hole *slightly* larger with a utility knife and enlarge it as needed to ensure a tight fit when inserting the bracket. Tighten the two screws until the plastic piece pinches the drywall after you've placed the bracket in the hole. After that, you should be able to fish your cables through and put the face plate in place. br>br>I used a few of these in a recent home entertainment center project and had no issues. All of the wall plates I installed looked great because they were flush against the wall. The only reason I deducted a star is because a template for marking the hole in the wall was not included; otherwise, this is a great product that works well. I would strongly advise you to use them instead of the more expensive alternatives available at your local big box store.
I've experimented with single-single-single-sing , double- as well as triple- Arlington Low Voltage Brackets in two groups for two different home theater installations. If the holes in the drywall are cut correctly, the wall plate and associated cabling are well secured. They're big enough and strong enough to hold the cabling in place in the wall, as well as provide enough support for the cabling from the jack to the speaker. I had no problems with the installation, which is simple; however, keep in mind that this product is designed for "low voltage" applications and should not be used in place of properly installed metal or plastic boxes for 120 or 240 volt installations. Though I haven't tried them, I imagine they'd work for some 12 volt low voltage lighting applications; however, I'm a purist, so I'd go with grounded metal boxes. Before you buy anything for that purpose, I recommend doing some research.
mounted bracket that was custom made Well- Indeed, it was made. Plastic that is both flexible and rigid and adheres to drywall with ease. Saw out a 4"x4" square, slide the bracket in, tighten two screws to secure it, and voila! The holes in the wall plate matched up perfectly with the holes in two different cable plates I purchased.
This is a fantastic way to add an outlet to your home. I used it to run cables from my wall to my computer. The TV is mounted to the outlets, and there is a low entertainment center on the floor. It was suggested that you trace the bracket's outline with a pencil to make your cut. out, but it was insufficient. I ended up cutting out more fabric a little at a time, checking for a fit, cutting out more fabric, checking for a fit, and so on. I applied it to the following item: .
It would be nice if they included a pattern because you can't really trace the exact cutout onto the wall without a pattern. You can draw a rough outline of the inside, then cut outside the lines. Even so, I had to take my time to make sure they fit perfectly; I'm a bit of a perfectionist, so I took my time to make sure the holes I cut weren't too large and didn't leave any gaps. Even without the templates, this is a fantastic product that will come in handy for any DIY project, including drywall and outlet installation.
These brackets did exactly what they were supposed to do: they made installing a cable wall plate simple. The only thing I wish it had was a little more sturdiness to it. While the plastic did not break or cause any damage, it did appear to be less expensive than some of its competitors, and I would gladly pay a little more for a higher grade. I was concerned that I would overtighten the mount and break the plastic, so increased durability would have allowed me to exert more force (as I have done with other brackets in the past).
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