Ceiling Fan Remote Control Replace Hampton Bay Thermostatic LCD W Fan Timer FAN-9T L3HFAN-9T (Remote Only) -Pikeman
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Over the years, I've installed a number of similar fan speed and lighting controllers. This is the first one I've ever seen with TWO light control wires, one BLUE labeled "DOWN LIGHT" and the other ORANGE labeled "UP LIGHT." To be honest, I couldn't think of anything! I tried everything I could think of to find an answer, including reading the instruction manual (which doesn't mention the orange one at all), and reading all of the reviews here (Amazon; All of the answers I found were incorrect), and a Google search for the model number (which, despite not appearing in the instructions, can be found on the unit itself as: FAN28r- 240W. I did find a manual for the unit online, but it didn't explain what the second wire was for. If your ceiling fan only has a single light wire (usually BLUE), you won't be able to connect it as shown. By the way, this product has no customer support; there is no phone number, email address, or mailing address on the instruction manual or box (later, I discovered Chia Wei Electric Co. , Ltd. br>br>So, what's a handyman and electrical engineer like me to do? ENGINEER IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION! That is precisely what I did. I used TWO SEPARATE bulbs (both with a common neutral, WHITE), one for the BLUE and the other for the ORANGE. The controller, it turns out, can control TWO different light circuits! COOL! br>br>If you only have one (BLUE) light wire, I recommend connecting it to the ORANGE "UP LIGHT" wire-- Yes, I understand that this entails linking BLUE and ORANGE. Your light will be controlled by the TOP button on the controller. If you connect ORANGE to ORANGE, you'll have to control your fan light with the bottom controller button, which is about a third the size of the top one. To summarize, I wish I had noticed the extra ORANGE wire on this controller before purchasing it (since I only needed ONE light control wire), and I am frustrated that I was unable to find a satisfactory solution- ANYWHERE! in order to understand how it functioned But I'm going to go with it, keeping in mind that a dual-purpose device isn't for everyone. If I ever decide to buy a fan with that feature, I'll need to buy a control unit.
The instructions that come with the unit do not address all six wires, and you are correct. Black, white, blue, and orange wires make up the output side's four wires. The fan motor is connected by the black and white wires. The light assembly is connected by the blue and orange wires. When you use the light down button on the remote, the blue wire, as indicated in the instructions, will change the voltage to the light. When using the light up button on the remote, if you use the orange wire instead of the blue wire, the voltage will vary. When pressed for a few seconds, either button on the remote will dim the light, but it will not do so according to the button's wording. I'm not aware of any lighting setup that incorporates both blue and orange. To accommodate both the light up and down buttons, it would almost certainly necessitate the use of a separate lighting module.
This remote controls two lights (left/right, up/down, top/bottom). This remote won't change the brightness or dimness of ONE light (up or down). br>Holding either button down causes the luminosity on ONE of the lights to cycle between the dimmest and brightest settings until the button is released. A SINGLE light cannot be brightened with the top button and dimmed with the lower button.
Selected User Reviews For Ceiling Fan Remote Control Replace Hampton Bay Thermostatic LCD W Fan Timer FAN-9T L3HFAN-9T (Remote Only) -Pikeman
I have an approximately ten-year-old Hunter fan. The remote control no longer works. The part, 85112-, has unfortunately been retired by Hunter. This item can be used in place of the original. It's even the same connection.
This was purchased to replace a MR77A module that came with a Hampton Bay Altura fan. Some cross-referenced information It appeared to be similar, if not identical, to the Anderic FAN2R module, with the exception that it came with a new remote (the original remote is incompatible, so a new remote is required) and cost only a few dollars more than the FAN2R module alone. This module, however, has "FAN2R" stamped on the plastic cover, indicating that it is presumably the same. This is not a direct replacement for this fan, as others have pointed out on the Anderic FAN2R product page. It will, however, work. Everything worked fine after the harness was connected, but I couldn't test the lights right away because one of the lighting wire harnesses didn't match the original lighting fixture. In order to keep this plug-in active, I just de-played and-played and-played and-played and I soldered the wire I required from the old module to the new module. br>br>Because the FAN2R is a little bigger than the MR77A, the original bracket that holds the MR77A in the fan cover needs to be removed or modified to make this fit better. The bracket and the metal cover on which the lighting fixture is mounted are basically pinched together. To remove the bracket, simply drill a small hole in the metal, similar to removing a rivet. Finally, the remote that came with it lacks the "Pikeman" logo, which I'm fine with. The remote is powered by a 9V battery that is not included, and it comes with a wall mount bracket but no hardware. The module did, however, come with two screws that appear to serve no other purpose than to secure the mounting bracket. Both products arrived in their own packaging. The instructions that came with the module were for a universal fan controller, not this module (though it is very simple to install in general). (With the exception of the changes I needed to make for my application. ) br>br>Overall, it's adequate for the task at hand. I'm hoping it lasts a little longer than the previous two. The MR77A lasted me 5 years.
I mistook the Up Light and Down Light buttons for dimmer controls for the same light when I bought it a year ago. When it came time to connect the mating receiver to the fan (Hyperikon 52 Inch Ceiling Fan with Remote Control), I discovered that the receiver has two light output wires (one labeled up for an upper light and the other labeled down for a lower light). Because of the way the buttons on the remote are oriented, I chose to wire the light to the Up Light wire because my fan only has one light, albeit in a lower position below the fan blades. In the dark, the top button is more visible. br>br>I purchased this remote even though the Hyperikon already had one because I purchased two Hyperikon fans and then used both remotes on one fan because Hyperikon does not sell spare remotes on Amazon. One Hyperikon remote is located near the bedroom door, while the other is located near the headboard of the bed. As a result of this brilliant solution, I now have a spare Hyperikon fan and receiver, but no remote control. For the second Hyperikon fan, I purchased a Hampton Bay receiver as well as two Hampton Bay remotes. A similar situation exists: One remote is near the door and the other is near the bed. Yes, there is still a spare Hyperikon receiver in my possession. br>br>A single 9V battery powers the Hampton Bay remote. The red LED flashes with each button press, indicating that the 9V battery is functioning properly. Unlike many low-cost overseas receivers, the Hampton Bay receiver does not beep. With four switches on the Hampton Bay remote and receiver, you can choose from 16 different code combinations. There are two modes on the Hampton Bay light control: The light turns on and off quickly when pressed quickly. The light goes through about four dimmer settings (Off, Low, Medium, and High) if you press the button for a long time. I used dimmable 13W LED bulbs, which are roughly the same as 60W incandescent bulbs. This Hampton Bay remote does not control the direction of your fan; your fan must have its own local direction switch. br>br>If you already own a Hampton Bay compatible receiver, I recommend this remote control.
So, after a long search, I decided to go with this one to replace a 15-year-old Hampton Bay remote and receiver set that was giving me trouble. Yes, I'm guilty of only glancing at the description and I'm 100% at fault for not reading that this one DOES NOT DIM the light. It was relatively simple to replace my Hampton Bay unit, and the new one performs as expected (after being re-programmed). reading through the description). br>Here's why I only gave it a four-star rating:
1: The receiver CAN dim the light; in fact, I set my old remote to the same frequency and it dimmed the light perfectly; I have no idea why they didn't make the new remote do the same. br>2: (3 stars on the remote) In place of a relay, the product uses a thyristor, according to the description. Although thyristors are solid state components that do not "click" when energized, I am still hearing the "click" of a relay in the receiver unit, so I'm not sure what's up. Overall, I would recommend the receiver because it appears to work well with my old remote. I'll try to update it if it stops working, but it appears to be working now. I'm going to keep the "new" remote as a backup.
I recently lost control of the remote and thought to myself, "Oh no, I'll have to buy a new fan. " I considered purchasing a light and fan separately, but in the summer, I prefer the ceiling fan. My brain's switch turned on all of a sudden- Amazon is a good place to look for a replacement! After reading some other reviews, I decided to give it a try. I'll send it back if it doesn't work; It was preferable to purchasing and installing a new fan. When the batteries are inserted, the majority of the reviews state that it works. I put the batteries in, prayed, and it worked! The light and the fan are both working properly once more! This purchase has made me extremely happy.
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