Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System
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yes. I've hand-sharpened up to 100 knives per day. not a piece of powered machinery I also don't sharpen by hand. Any freehand edge will be blown away by the precise knife edge of the Lansky or Edge Pro sharpeners. With the lansky, you can sharpen a knife up to 10 inches long without having to move the clamp. As a professional, I can tell you that the Lansky is the best clamp sharpener on the market. The lansky directions, on the other hand, contain three errors. Always sharpen on a dry surface. Sharpening stones should never be oiled. If you sharpen your edge dry, it will be sharper and last longer. The United States of America is the only country on the planet that actively promotes oil sharpening. The quality of man-made stones is superior to that of diamonds. From top to bottom, man-made stones have equal cutting power. The cutting power of diamond grit plates degrades over time. After every five knives, I flatten and clean the Lansky stones. Using sand and a patio block or thick glass, flatten the stones. They'll sharpen until the stone wears down to the plastic holder if you keep them flat and clean.
There are five different stones in this set. LS70 stands for extra coarse, LS120 for course, LS280 for medium, LS600 for fine, and LS1000 for ultra fine. I hope this information is useful.
This system belongs to me; therefore, I will not be using it. Most men who value high-quality knives, I believe, also desire a good sharpening tool. I have many of the most popular sharpening systems as a collector of folding pocket knives and kitchen knives (approximately 35 of each). Sharpeners all have one thing in common: they take a long time to use, they require skill no matter what anyone says, and there are significant differences in success no matter how much you practice. After watching numerous videos of professional knife makers sharpening their knives, the most common technique involves a fast rotating belt or stone. The majority of high-quality Japanese knives are made with large spinning stones (i.e. 5" in diameter by 48" long! Large belts are also used by professional sharpening services, i.e. Work Sharp WSKTS Knife and Tool Sharpener makes a $70 smaller version of the belt type that is 4" wide by several feet long and spinning quickly. It has built-in guides and measures about 3/4" wide x 6" long. It spins much slower than the big ones, but it is more forgiving because it removes material much more slowly while being many times faster than any hand-operated type. Using one of several belt "grits," you can touch up kitchen knives in a matter of minutes. A belt will last for 100 sharpenings. It is so quick and effective that I no longer use any of my other programs. A more expensive version, designed by Ken Onion, a well-known knife designer, is available for around $125. If you're an anal retentive and small-minded fanatic like me, keep sharpening your blades with your slow, SLOW hand sharpeners and brag about how sharp they are. You'll be reborn with better edges than ever after a few sessions with the Work Sharp WSKTS Knife and Tool Sharpener, but you'll need electricity in your home, LOL Happy Trails
This device appears to be manufactured in the United States of America! There is no indication that it was made in China on the packaging!
Selected User Reviews For Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System
The blade holders in the "new" kits are among the worst I've ever seen from Lansky. Lansky was my go-to guy for a long time. The new blade holder is stamped and bent, whereas the old one was machined and extremely sturdy. The old style has clearly marked inclinations, whereas the new style is on the wrong side of the page and difficult to read. Because the main torque screw for tightening the blade into the holder was not threaded all the way through, it could not be tightened. I've got a tap set up and have finished tapping the hole in the holder. The torque screw was forced into an incomplete hole, causing the screw shaft to be damaged. My score was ten out of ten. I had a 24T screw in my junk box, so that's what I used. One of the guide legs was bent too far and couldn't maintain the proper angle. When I adjusted the angle, it thankfully did not break. So, before you go out and buy another Lansky, keep in mind that if you have an older kit, the new one will not look, feel, or work the same way. The quality has deteriorated to the point where it can no longer be considered acceptable. There are some photos included. The old holder is the one on the left (obviously).
With time and care (though not as much as a traditional whet stone), this thing will give your knife/knives a *wicked* edge. br>br>However, here are some tips I've picked up while using my kit: br>br>* If you're going to purchase a base/stand with it, spend the extra money on the metal one. The one made of plastic is noisy and not very good. I have one, but I'm never going to use it. I simply keep the entire setup in my non-working space. br>br>* Keep the guide rod in the same area of the guide slot with a finger (I use the index finger of my left hand). I simply place the rod between my second and third knuckles on top of my finger. Any 'wiggle' in the angle of the hones is eliminated as a result of this. br>br>* I spent the majority of my time honing with the coarsest and finest hones, but I had a couple of knives that needed serious edge work. This worked, though I think the diamond set would be a little quicker. I have the time and am willing to put in the effort to get the best results possible from this kit. br>br>* Make sure there are no scratches from the previous coarseness before moving on to the next fineness of hone. So, if you're on the second floor, Before switching to the 280/medium, make sure there are no scratches left from the coarsest (120 'grit'). This, combined with keeping your angles of attack as narrow as possible, will yield excellent results. br>br>*Follow Lansky's instructions for mounting a blade in the holder. From the jaws' edge to the blade, it should be about 5/8"/11 mm. Also, and this is more important in my experience, make sure the blade is centered inside the jaws along its cutting edge, or as close as possible. This keeps the angle of attack from the hones as consistent as possible all the way around the edge. Longer blades, on the other hand, appear to present a bit of a challenge, particularly around the tip, if it curves at all. I find that I work my BK7 in 4"/100 mm long sections, finishing with the tip last (shorter blades aren't as picky about this). However, consider the following scenario: If the hone is set at a 20° angle directly in front of the clamp (approximately), When you're working the tip from a distance of 4" away, the angle will be shallower. br>br>To summarize, this system isn't perfect; it has personality and can be a little wonky at times. However, if you're willing to put in the effort in advance and pay attention while sharpening, you can achieve amazing results. The images depict the final product as well as my setup and holding techniques. Of course, you are free to do whatever you want. br>br> This is what I've discovered to be effective for me.
Updated after 18 months. br>OK, after a year and a half of using this system, I've figured out why it works for me when other methods have failed. The key is that the angle guide really does work to keep the same edge angle each time you sharpen a knife (assuming you KEEP THE ANGLE TIGHT with a finger behind the guide), whereas with free hand stones, I found that my muscle memory wasn't keeping the same angles each time I sharpened. It was made possible by Lansky's guide. br>br>That's all there is to it. That is all there is to it. The original review can be found below if you want to hear about the steps that led to this revelation. br>br>Review of the first edition. br>All I wanted in life was a simple way to sharpen and maintain the edge on my hunting knives, pocket folders, and kitchen cutlery. This has turned out to be a much longer journey than I had anticipated. It's progressed from my youth, when I thought any of the quick sharpening tools would give me a "good enough" edge, to today, when it's bordering on obsession. br>br>After experimenting with a variety of low-cost and free-to-use devices, The path led to this Lansky system via hand stones, all of which had varying degrees of failure. It also appeared to be a significant amount of effort. But, because I was stubborn and desperate for a manual solution that allowed me to feel in control of the process, I looked into the system. I read a lot of reviews and watched a lot of videos before making my decision. (Which I strongly advise you to do because you will learn a great deal of useful information and techniques. ) Both positive and negative aspects are present. I'd like to express my gratitude to everyone who took the time to write reviews. ) I received the system and implemented some of the recommended configuration changes. Then I got down to sharpening OLD knives that I DIDN'T CARE IF I MESSED UP SOME (like using electrical tape on the blade clamp and swapping out the thumb screws on the clamp and hones with set screws). because I was one of them. I was able to learn from my mistakes and how to correct them. With practice, I was able to develop a technique and a sharpening rhythm, and I was able to see and feel the differences in the blade as I moved from stone to stone. Finally, when I got down to the ceramic hone, I was astounded to see the haze lift from the knife's edge! (And, thanks to the review tips, I could tell where and how to go back and touch up "rough" spots. ) My knives were now really sharp, as evidenced by the pronounced lack of hair on my left arm. I re- Every knife I could find in the house was profiled and sharpened. As a result, I like the system because it produces precise results. But I don't like it because you have to be so careful, and I had to replace some of the stock parts in order to make it more useful. br>br>And it was at this point that I should have stopped. I got the leather strop hone and some green chrome oxide jeweler's rouge, but no. br>br> My edges were starting to take on a gleaming sheen. With a little more investigation, I discovered how far people are willing to go in their "beyond sharpening" obsession. This is a society that resembles a cult. You have to be careful not to fall into the dark side. Ok, so maybe I did get some full leather strops because I thought I could do a better job than the leather strop hone. Oh, and a few more rogues. That is, however, the end of the story! I'm OK. for now.
The knife clamp did not have a threaded hole for the clamp to screw into, as shown, so it was useless. As is customary for Amazon, they promptly dispatched a replacement, which I received today. Let me tell you something. Exactly the same faulty garbage! I contacted Lansky earlier this week and received no response. Stay away from this one, because it appears that they have a lot of problems with Chinese communists producing it.
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