GEAR AID Seam Grip WP Waterproof Sealant and Adhesive for Tents and Outdoor Fabric, Clear
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I've waterproofed many items (jackets, backpacks, tents, and shoes). Seam Grip Sealer was one of the products I tried. I HATE IT WITH ALL MY HEART! It simply does not dry; months later It's still sticky after months (the company admits that curing it is difficult). baby powder can be sprinkled on it to help it dry - POWDER FOR A BABY? Who wants to be covered in baby powder? And it sticks to itself when it comes into contact with itself on a seam. When you try to pull it apart, the sealer is ripped away. It takes a long time to seal the seams. I've squandered a lot of time ripping the sticky Seam Sealer mess off of my clothes. utilizing far superior products: E6000 is a good choice for heavy materials. It's half the price for twice the sealer, dries quickly, and is both flexible and tough. seams are protected Because it dries quickly, be prepared to spread it out quickly. In a few weeks, the noxious chemical odor will dissipate. Coghlan's Seam Sealer is great for lighter fabrics like coats. It's simple to apply, seals well, and dries quickly. A 2 oz tube lasts a long time and is significantly less expensive than Seam Grip. If you need to join two pieces of nylon, I recommend using Beacon Fabri-Seal. Tac - It quickly forms a bond It lasts indefinitely and dries clear. is simple to clean. It's not inexpensive, but it's a great investment. A four-ounce bottle will suffice for a variety of tasks.
The issue is that, while Seam Grip Sealer keeps seams waterproof, it never dries! It will always be sticky! It's a failed product that appears to receive positive feedback from people who are either delusional or involved in the marketing of it in some way. I know these are harsh words, but I've done it before and it works. I'm still sore from having to redo all of my hard seam sealing work with a product that actually dries, so I didn't end up with a sticky mess in my packs and stuff sacks. tents. I am unaffiliated with any company or product. DON'T USE IT, in my opinion. E6000 is THE product to use when it comes to waterproofing seams. It not only waterproofs the seams, but also forms a tough layer around them that protects them while remaining flexible; It's half the price of Seam Grip Sealer. You will receive twice as much as before. It also dries completely in a matter of minutes, allowing you to use any water proofing product on top of it without issue. To speed up the drying process, Seam Grip Sealer suggests sprinkling baby powder on the seams after application. BABY POWDER ALL OVER THE PLACE? ARE YOU KIDDING ME? Unless you want a sticky, useless mess, you won't be able to spray waterproofing on baby powder-covered fabric! Another advantage of E6000 is that it can be found in the hardware or automotive sections of any department store. The only drawback is that it has a noxious chemical odor that takes several weeks to completely disappear. Because it dries so quickly, you'll need to work quickly smoothing it out on the seams.
No, it's not temporary.
IT MAY WORK TO KEEP THE OUTSIDE OF THE SLEEPING PAD TOGETHER, BUT I WOULD NOT USE IT ON ANY AREA THAT COMES IN CONTACT WITH YOUR SKIN WHILE USING THE SLEEPING PAD. HUMANS AND OTHER ANIMALS ARE TOXIC TO IT.
Selected User Reviews For GEAR AID Seam Grip WP Waterproof Sealant and Adhesive for Tents and Outdoor Fabric, Clear
four-year-old Coleman tent for a single person I didn't use the screw-driver because I didn't want to use it. on brush, and I've been using the small paintbrush that comes with it. Instead of using large globs of product, I punctured the tube with a safety pin and applied a small amount as I went. I've been working the product into all of the seam threads and coating them thoroughly with the brush. It smells and feels like rubber cement. It has a strong odor, but it's not so strong that you can't do it indoors (in my opinion). I cleaned all of my seams with rubbing alcohol before applying the tent, as suggested by the instructions, and I plan to use it for a weekend in September, so I'll keep you updated on how it performs if it rains. During a recent camping trip, I had a lot of water in my tent due to a strong thunderstorm. br>br>Many people have commented on how difficult it is to work with this - This isn't the case. Simply crack open a beer, turn on some music, and relax.
a tear in the fabric's edge and a poly- filling to the brim There's no way to stitch this waterproof, winter material without further ripping it and ruining the look (and even if I could, the burgundy/wine color is unusual, so I wouldn't be able to find thread to match)- And, as I previously stated, the tear is visible right in front of the zipper, in the center. As a result, I went to Amazon to see what I could come up with. To my surprise, there were many fabric adhesives available, and despite reading all of the descriptions, I chose none of them! I came across this seam sealant in the related items section and decided to use it because it is "flexible" and "dries clear. " I simply brushed a small amount of Seam Grip on the fiberfill directly behind the tear, then used tweezers to carefully place each side of the torn fabric, butting the edges together, after trimming the ragged edges of the tear. In a matter of minutes, you'll have the outcome- Mind you, this is for less than ten dollars. It was fantastic! The sealant stayed true to its word and dried completely clear, allowing the fabric to move freely. Last year, I wore it for the entire second half of the season and even washed it, and it still looks brand new! To find the tear, you'll have to dig a little deeper. I'm completely satisfied! I would strongly suggest it.
It's not always clear what the differences are between Gear Aid/McNett sealing products. This material is extremely durable and effective, but it can be difficult to apply in a neat manner. It resembles (and smells like) model glue or a thick general-purpose glue. It's not intended to be a general-purpose adhesive, but it flows out beautifully and grips seams and fabric well. The end result is 100% waterproof seam that is flexible, tough, glossy, somewhat thick, somewhat tacky. br>br>My recommendation for application is to leave the brush at home. Go out and buy a few more bristle brushes and put the cap on it. They don't have to be 'acid brushes,' like the one provided, but they should be soft and no wider than 3/8" in diameter – You'll need several cheap artist brushes, and you'll need them quickly because they'll be ruined after using this stuff. br>br>When applying, I recommend squeezing out a little less than you think you'll need. It can be brushed quite a bit and still flow out nicely, despite its thickness. The final result was good when I brushed it out as thinly as possible while still getting a complete coating. If you put too much down, the end result will be bulky and thick, which will be a problem if you want to fold it, etc. So keep it thin! You can always squeeze a small amount onto your brush and add to what you've already laid down, but you won't be able to easily subtract from it. br>br>Thus, while this is very effective, it isn't particularly attractive. It's also sticky once it's dried – To get rid of the tackiness, I used seam tape over it. Although it took more time and money, the results are truly bombproof, long-lasting, and attractive.
Your artistic abilities will be put to the test to see how well everything comes together. Always have a supply of paper towels on hand. The applicator brush that screws onto the tube has a tendency to drip, and it is goopy, as I previously stated. In the time it took to set up, I discovered that it formed drips. Because the product is moisture-curable, it will set up faster in humid environments. I live in a dry zone, and I discovered that if I ran hot water for a few minutes in the shower before applying the sealant, it would cure much faster in the humidity, and any drips would be prevented. When everything was in place, I applied a light coat of baby powder (just wiped on with a towel) to prevent the tackiness from setting in. If you apply this product to the leaky areas, the leaks will be stopped. Oh, and if you want to save your organs, don't use this material in a closed space because it contains strong solvents. br>br>While the product cures, the item being sealed should be kept in its natural position. You'll have a goopy mess on your hands if the product you've applied comes into contact with any other part of your project! Consider how you can suspend your item so that other parts don't come into contact with the applied product. When I sealed PVC duffle bags, I discovered that inflated trash bags inside the bags kept everything in the shape it needed to be until it was cured. If you leave your fabric in a sharp bend while the product is still liquid, it will most likely stay that way when the product cures. A successful application will require you to come up with unique ways to hang, drape, or suspend your project.
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