1 4/4 Violin Aubert Semi Fitted Bridge: 100543 Teller Germany 01042FU, With E Ebony insert, of Bosnian Maple A Product of Germany VWWS
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Looks like the picture. As a result, it is the same as another one I have, or another of them. I am thinking it should be the same shape as the original one. The bottom feet need to be carved if they will fit your violin. The bottom may not have been carved correctly on your existing one, so you are having trouble hitting two strings.
standard 4/4 specifications are considered.
I can't give any reason why this shoyld works for an electric device, but you might need to adjust your feet as most wlectric violins have sanded flat feet. If you play with a violin, you'll have to adapt accordingly. please give me a call to let me know if i can be of any assistance. James Alexi Strings, thank you for your support.
G string should be at least 3mm, and should be aligned with an E string. 5 . Those factors may vary some based on instruments and musicians preference.
Selected User Reviews For 1 4/4 Violin Aubert Semi Fitted Bridge: 100543 Teller Germany 01042FU, With E Ebony insert, of Bosnian Maple A Product of Germany VWWS
Essentially, fitted means Semi. fitted. With a razorblade and a few pieces of paper, a couple of hours, it made a pretty good bridge. There is an option of creating custom strings for your violin which will give your violin some of its own special action. There's one major problem: your feet must sit flush against the body of your violin to prevent them from getting muddy. First, I smeared grit sandpaper onto the high points of the violin from the edge of my hand until I had a thin layer of Lipstick on the face to dry before pressing the bridge up into my own face. The razorblade just let your points go as easily as possible!! Despite not being the most flexible and skilled, it may require some time as you play your new fiddle again. I am not sure that much of its efficacy is brought on by the insert as it is interchangeable. Despite being on the E string side, it's clearly beautiful in its veneer style. The ebony occupies about 80% of the span width of my bridge when I thin it out so I'm sure it'll add a little dimension to it. My strings can still become tangled if I remove the plastic tube.
nephew owned a violin that I inherited. It was a fairly flat bridge when he was from the United States/West Africa. I didn't want to have to spend too much cash to learn this lesson, but when I was still just experimenting, I decided to pick this one for now. About a dozen e's separate from each other (E and G). I switched Tonica strings from the steel ones I had bought that were 5mm higher than intended when I configured my setup, so this has not affected my performance. In addition to getting to experience putting the feet on the body, the experience was an interesting one. When you have some small files and a SHARP blade, you can work with a soldering iron for a quick job. There are numerous YouTube videos detailing the process, please check them out.
The violin body does have to be contourd in order for this piece to fit. It is quite simple to do yourself for that reason. When you add sanding onto sandpaper, it can form a square. To rock the bridge, you need time and patience. An old violin was revived. Also, the sound is great.
Used cheap violin for the purpose and had it replaced by a new one. It went very well for the new bridge. It is more convenient to play without misidentifying that you have played only one string.
First of all, don't be surprised if you see this sign after crossing the bridge. . . Additionally, the bridge has been covered in an ebony insert, unlike some who suggest it has been painted like that. A difference in wood grain can tell you if it is healthy or not. On the face of it, the maple wood grain seems acceptable. It seems to be a lower grade maple based on patterns, but it has more or less parallel patterns when viewing side-by-side. My instrument isn't as sensitive as it should be due to this material. A high quality bridge that is thick enough not to need to be tailored to an instrument, but is still extremely valuable. I would agree that it needs to be modified. Instruments and players need not only to have bridge edges trimmed or bent, but also to have bridge designs tailored to them. Generally speaking, I like higher bridges with more height, and I prefer one with a column of arbors that is left-center, rather than uniform (classical).
Just received it. I ordered this bridge because it was one of a number I was considering for my violins. The bridge itself may just be mine because the overall quality looked fine and the workmanship was excellent. A malfunction caused the ebony insert to be inserted without a fitting. gap in the wood itself, while the color changed according to how moist the forest was at the time of manufacture and the way it became dehydrated after that. I think the outcome should be incredible in our eyes, but I doubt the inserts would remain or that the bridge would hold up properly. An onal tive into the violin. might be due to an issue with kiln runs at the mill that processed ebony, or it could be caused by a factory defect. This item arrived refunded. It must have sounded appealing as, if it was with a V insert, and the quality otherwise looked and felt terrific, I wish I would try it again.
This is not the first time it has happened to me. Despite the fact that it is painted, not a groove for an e string. Then you will have to shape it yourself in order for your violin to work. Upon purchasing my e string I was bored, feeling like it was overly hugmy finger board from my previous bridge. Thus I decided to save it and shape it myself to make a more natural shape. My mind is now made up. I should probably read and compare reviews before taking the leap People generally assume that e strings will cease to sink faster if they are buckled from negligence. I did. Despite lack of experience making wood or not having any access to luthiers nearest you, there should be no problem for you. Get an existing violin so that I can make another one with it. Try fitting violin feet to sound post settings and let your feet do their best to find the correct angle. This may be true for new instruments. In general, get a better understanding of them as well. In addition to wanting a nice feel to an electric acoustic, it was a bit unusual for me. Just FYI. Hopefully, I won't have to worry about it for now as I see no problem with my e string height.
It was easy for me to install and I was pleased with how it turned out for two months. Even though it's wonderful and, in fact, happy to say so, when the ebony insert became detached from the maple then things started to get interesting. In the weeks before it cracked the whole bridge had been weakened in several places so it was leaning over very severely. glued it back together again and still it seems okay. But now, I have doubts that it will last. As a result, I wouldn't buy it again. Obviously, the idea of substituting ebony for an E string felt good, but it seemed easy to accomplish.