Ernie Ball Amp Casters Pop-In, Set of 4
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The Ernie Ball system comes with a socket for each caster. To install the sockets, you must drill four holes in the amp box's bottom. It has nothing to do with the type of amp you're using when you use these. In fact, they could be used on a kitchen cart, so there's no way to know without trying them. As you may be aware, the wheels can be removed, ensuring that your amplifier does not roll off a stage or inside a van. However, you should be able to replace the sockets in your Marshal amplifier with these. You might want to rotate the sockets slightly before installing the screws in new wood. The quality of the equipment is excellent. Best wishes to you.
A 5/8-inch hole must be drilled. For each caster socket, there are four screw holes. Recommend removing the amplifier. & If you don't use a speaker before drilling, you'll end up with sawdust all over the place. They are going to work out. Installing on blues deluxe and deluxe reveb is "not" recommended. another small, slender cab These casters are on small amps that I have installed. Larger, narrower cabs did not work well because they could easily topple if tipped or if they were placed on carpeted floors.
I've never been aware of it. However, they will pick up grit from bar floors and concrete outside, and this grime and grit embedded in the wheel may leave a mark on the carpet in the same way that dirty shoes do.
You could put these on almost any cabinet you want because you'll need to modify your cabinet to fit the Ernie Ball casters. You'll need to drill for 1/2 inch holes tables, date sockets at the Castro pops into in the bottom of the cab, and then half-inch holes in each of those. After you've inserted the socket, you'll drill four small screws to secure it in place, and then you'll be able to pop the Casters in when you're ready to move the cabinet.
Selected User Reviews For Ernie Ball Amp Casters Pop-In, Set of 4
I have a bath Katana 100 MKII head with the matching Boss Katana 212 Speaker cabinet, and even though this setup is much lighter weight than a half stack, I will do anything to help save my back. br>br>These wheels are exceptional becausebr>br>1. It's simple to set them up.
2. You can easily move the amp to wherever you need it, then simply pull the wheels out and your amp will sit nicely on the stage. After the gig, simply pop the wheels back in and you're ready to go, it's that simple. If you're tired of lugging around your guitar amp, this is a fantastic alternative! br>br>Note: If you're looking for a unique way to express yourself, try using the words "creative The wheels aren't designed to be pushed across grass, dirt, gravel, or other similar surfaces. Because of their small size, they are only suitable for use in areas with asphalt, concrete, or flat floors; however, a shorter carpet should suffice. However, if you need wheels to go outside, such as across grass, you'll need casters with a larger diameter.
In my Ampeg PF series cab, I used these to replace the caster receivers. I'm a PF-type person. 210HE that's been on casters for a while and has seen some action. I removed the caster wheels recently in order to stack it on another cab. All four caster receivers were found to be loose, with the fit between the large washer and the pin that accepts the caster having been broken. With no casters installed and only the cab's weight to keep things from vibrating, it rattled like crazy. These are an exact match for Ampeg's part. No modifications, just a bolt on. The only difference is that Ampeg used painted black parts instead of unfinished silver parts. It doesn't matter; with the cab in use, it's impossible to see them.
I replaced the provided screws with bolts, washers, and nuts. The screws would protrude from the amp's bottom and be extremely sharp. Yes, a 5/8 drill bit is required. Yes, that's it. Make sure you don't hit anything in the back and use painters tape to protect your panels and speakers. Although this was a project, I am pleased with the results.
Perfect fit for the back wheels! The holes in the front wheels must be drilled out (no big deal). Ernie Ball's merchandise has always been outstanding! I'm thinking about getting these to replace all of the wheels on my Marshall cabs (I have two full stacks).
The casters come with a housing that must be drilled into the cab's bottom. I'd make sure the hole is far enough forward to clear the speaker grille frame. You might end up drilling into the frame if you don't.
To begin, separate the wheel from the mounting circle by pulling it apart. You'll be able to put the screws in without damaging the wheel if you do it this way. br>br>Get yourself a drill, a screwdriver, and some drill bits. To mount the mounting circle in the cab, you'll need a bit more than 5/8ths. To make it work, I had to enlarge the hole. For wood screws, a 7/32s bit is ideal. Make sure you remove the back of your cabinet and that you aren't drilling into any other wood or wire, and that you use a tape measure to ensure they are even. If you know what you're doing, they're not difficult to set up. After you've finished with the face, vacuum up all of the wood chips. Your cab/amp will not run away from you because the wheels are a little tight.
These were used on a 1960A cab, and there was definitely some drilling involved. It was a little aggravating for me because I didn't get the DIY genetics that others had, but you'll get that on your smaller jobs. I wasn't completely satisfied with how they felt after they were installed. All of the adapters are flush with the cab's base, but it still wobbles? To get the adapters (inserts) to fit, I had to open the cab up and remove two wood screws from the inside. Anyway, if you have a vintage cab (which I don't), the factory Marshall casters are the way to go. This is my old car. \m/.
Get some casters to save your back! This is exactly what I had hoped for. They were simple to set up, were built to last, and ran without a hitch. I run them through an Ashdown 2X10 Deep and a 220 Watt Ashdown Combo, which makes transporting them to and from gigs a breeze. It took me less than 10 minutes per cabinet once I had the right sized drill bit and a Philips bit, and they feel like they can take a lot of weight. Simply pop the casters out of the brackets after you've moved your equipment in, and the cabinets will be solidly on their feet again, which I think is preferable to locking casters.
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