Adjustable DC Power Supply (0-30 V 0-5 A) with Output Enable/Disable Button HANMATEK HM305 Mini Variable Switching Digital Bench Power Supply
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A UL sticker does not appear to be on the unit, which is made in China. One of these units has been on my bench for more than nine months, and I have not observed any particularly hazardous behavior. As I inspected the main board, I noticed that there is at least a basic layout to isolate the mains voltage from the output and prevent the mains overvoltage from arcing into the output. If UL is to approve this product, they may want the mains switch mounted away from the panel and operated by plastic rods, and the binding posts to be recessed, so that all metal is covered. Safety features on this unit are probably comparable to those on an older HP bench supply I currently
There is a lot of quiet here. The variable speed fan will turn on when you are loading a heavier load, however, it remains very quiet when it runs.
With the unit I received, I was given a standard 120VAC power cord that works well. This model is marked 110 volts +- on the back of the box The frequency input for AC is 10% 50/60 Hz.
(I am sorry to disagree with the manufacturer. However, I believe they misspoke a little. This sticker is Delivered by Amazon) unit states A 10% discount. It is possible that the unit is sold in other countries with different input needs, cable types, etc. however, it is 110, not 220, as shown on the box and delivered to the United States. I just wanted to note for the record The power supply is really nice!
Selected User Reviews For Adjustable DC Power Supply (0-30 V 0-5 A) with Output Enable/Disable Button HANMATEK HM305 Mini Variable Switching Digital Bench Power Supply
You can improve your view even more by removing the screen protection film. The pros are Currently, it has a screen protector film installed, so you'll have to remove it if you want to look at the screen at its best. Overall, it is a beautiful, very clean, and modern looking computer. It's great to be able to command output from the button. If you want to make modifications, you can cut off the output while you do it. Nonetheless, if you want to make any adjustments while exporting, you can do so as well. In the manual, the two features are noted, but the font size is low You can lock the starting value of the output switch every time you turn the unit on by holding down the voltage knob for a few seconds. This will mean the output will come up on or off at startup regardless of the volt setting. Holding down the current knob for a few seconds allows you to lock the unit and prevent it from changing the current values. While the unit is locked, the output can be turned on and off. There seems to be a reasonable degree of accuracy in the displayed voltage. When I tested the open circuit voltage output with my Fluke 177 DMM, there were never more than 5mV fluctuations. As of yet, I have not tested how accurate the current is. By scrolling the adjustment knob, you are able to change the value of any digit, but by doing so the surrounding numbers will increase or decrease, so you don't have to move between the digits all the time. As an example, if the current voltage is set at 3, you should adjust it to 4 or higher. The current value is 3 v, and you wish to increase it to 5 v. Depending on where you are on the number 0v, you can either advance the whole number and the tenths place individually, or simply stay on the tenths place and it will advance the whole number as well. 3, you can start over. By clicking on 9v and going forward one more time, it will move There is no reset to 3 for 0v. There are no sounds coming from it. The fan does have a motor, so I believe it will start to turn on when more load is applied, but I haven't experienced it so far. Those of you who need to see a particular circuit's power draw and often like to observe the power reading will find the power reading useful. The cons are When you press the power button, you have to press it a little bit farther in than you might think, or the latch will not stay in place. It took me a couple of turns to get it to come on the first few times because I kept pressing it in far enough to light up the display, but as soon as I let go, the button depressed, and it went It's not a big deal at all, just something to remember. A plastic case is used in this case. It probably won't matter if it is all that you have on your bench. A case made of plastic may not hold up as well as one made of metal if it is something you move a lot. I think the fit and finish is good, but it's not built like a tank at all. Once you press down the voltage or current knobs to make adjustments, you only have two seconds to adjust it before it goes back to normal operation unless you move the knob, so you have to move It takes a fraction of a second for the current to be limited. An LED is hooked up and I configured it to limit the current Just for a very brief moment, the LED was brighter than usual when this product was powered on. Despite the short duration of the transient, it doesn't seem to be an issue, but perhaps it could be an issue for circuits with a greater sensitivity? I can only imagine that you can get away with it if you limit your voltage at an appropriate level, too.
The LCD screen has 3 colors that I love. Then and now Hanmatek is a great addition to your home electronics lab, which works as advertised. In addition to 5V, 12V, and 24V, I have used it as well. In addition to this power supply, another competitor is also used. Excellent value for the money.
It took me a while to get a hold of the company before I posted A company representative never got back to me to help me fix this problem. There was no way I could make this When I first tried to turn it on and set it, I could hear it try to start, but then it would shut off. At first I thought it was me, but every time I do it, Obviously, I am realizing it after the return window has closed, so I tried contacting them about it and I have yet to hear back from them. It's a real disappointment.
In general I wasn't expecting much as I purchased a cheap supply about 5 years ago for the same price, the same specifications, but it was terrible heavy, noisy, inaccurate and with The container was opened and I found that it was a switching supply, not a transformer, which is great, but I was concerned Once it had been powered up, I went through the most commonly used voltages, 1, 2, 3, etc. The following two are equivalent. 8 and 3 are also important. Within a margin of 0, all three ects were within. On a calibrated 5 1/2 digit DMM, we verified that the setting was 0. 1 volts. In addition to this, I checked the AC ripple. At 1 volt, it was 700uV and at 32 volts, The supply is only 6mV, which is good considering its cost. This isn't an Agilent, but for 50 USD, it's hard to beat this. I believe it to be a good quality supply, as compared to those costing five times this amount. * My only critique is the included leads. They feel cheap, are pretty thin and expect voltage drop at higher loads. I am going to throw them away or rework them.
So I bought a new power supply after I destroyed my old Chinese PSU.
Power supply that is adequate for bench work. This voltage and current meter has an accuracy of 0. 14%. It's true, alligator leads are inexpensive and short, but that's not a problem. There is only one complaint I have, which is how the voltage and current are set. The current and voltage are automatically locked if you do not select your desired value quickly enough. The dial on the phone lets you select a voltage by clicking the digit you want to change, but if you take more than about 1 of the digits, it becomes difficult to operate. If you wait longer than 5 seconds, the selection menu locks out and you have to click the button several times again to access it again. You will not run out of time as long as you keep clicking or turning the dial. I don't think the current is too bad as long as the voltage or current stays at a specific level.
A power supply's display and output is among the best I've seen in this price range and would be competitive with those that are more expensive. A fluke digital multimeter equipped with a very high end was used for all measurements The reading of a multimeter is 5 digits The score must be 01% or above. Honestly, the only improvement I could recommend is adding a little more time to make adjustments, but it is not a huge problem and relatively easy to learn how to do. Upon the basis of my own experience with this power supply, I feel that whoever uses it would be very satisfied with its features. A very good experience for me as well as better than I.
The unit had a good working life of about three In the next few minutes, it stopped showing output voltage / current as expected.