Baomain Universal Rotary Changeover Switch SZW26-63 660V 63A 3 Position 3 Phase
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This switch will be used to switch power between the dryer and the water heater, both of which are 230v 2 phase. Connect the dryer to pin 1 5 of the main power supply on pin 2 6 for pos 1. Also, for pos 2, add a jumper to 2 4 and a jumper to 6 8; then, for pos 3, add a water heater to 3 7. This should work as a power switch.
All of the instructions are written in Chinese and include a hazy chart; using a meter, you'll need to be extremely intuitive. I'm still trying, so wish me luck.
That's odd, because mine doesn't say anything along those lines. It should have a voltage of 660 volts and a current of 63 amps. For my RV, I use a 30 amp shore power and a 1500 watt inverter.
It's not a problem if you know what you're doing. The switch is nothing more than a gateway device that allows multiple outputs to be generated from a single input. It will transfer AC or DC without issue if the current is not overloaded.
Selected User Reviews For Baomain Universal Rotary Changeover Switch SZW26-63 660V 63A 3 Position 3 Phase
For my own use, I drew up a schematic, which I've attached to this review along with some descriptive photos. br>This is a well-made 3-piece set. Heavy-duty position switch with 3-positions. motor reversing in three phases or three-phase motor reversing selection of phase voltage from two different sources br>Rotate Left is a three-step process. a set of six switches Rotate to the Middle position to disconnect everything, and rotate to the Right position to operate 3-way switches. Other switches are set (6-). pins). A total of 12 people pins. As a result, changes from right to left, or vice versa, are possible. The middle (disconnect) position is always used in the case of versa.
It wasn't until I got the switch and read the small print on the glued-on label that I realized what had happened: AC- 15 240 volts 220 volts 220 volts 220 DC-powered at 5 amps 13 amps at 240 volts This led me to Wikipedia, where I discovered that ITh, the current rating used in the item description, specifies the maximum current that will not cause the device to overheat. It has a 15 rating, which means it can only switch two things. I can't use it to safely switch between utility and generator power for my well pumps because it draws 5 amps when the load is a motor or other inductive device!.
I used this in my RV instead of buying a second transfer switch. Switch 1 was for shore power, and Switch 2 was for the inverter. I connected the Output to the RV transfer switch's Input one. It works great and I've had no problems with it.
Excellent switch at a reasonable cost For my application, it was perfect. The switching configuration allows you to connect this in a variety of ways and achieve a wide range of switching options. I used it to convert my RV from solar and batteries to AC shore power. It can handle high current and switch all legs (pos. & neg. a word of warning: br>br> The switch is designed to be mounted on a very thin surface (roughly 1/8"). I had to make a shaft extension that could attach to the switch shaft in order to mount it on the 7/8" thick bulkhead in my RV. a knob that fits Although dozens of these are available in 1/4" sizes, I was unable to locate any in the ridiculous metric 6mm size. As a result, I had to make something special on the lathe. It was also necessary to locate longer metric screws. Just wanted to let you know.
I really like this switch because the parts and makeup are sturdy. The contactors are built to withstand a load. BUT. When I removed the handle and faceplates to install it on my project door, the handle key began to slide and one of the retainer washers slid out of place. "Snakes in a can" 15 or so springs, contactors, and metal bits erupted across the room in every direction as I slid the key back a little to adjust it. I didn't even get angry because it was so shocking and hilarious. I wouldn't even try to reassemble it because it's a critical component for turning my lathe on and off and rotating. I've placed a new order, but knowing this information would have been invaluable. My lathe would be running now if I just put some electrical tape down each side before unscrewing anything. It's a fantastic item that's ideal for on-the-go use. off- The delay in reverse is a pain. Just a word of caution:.
This was purchased to replace a shore power switch on my boat, which allows me to switch between shore power and generator power. This switch is set up as a two-in-two configuration. There are four screw sets in total. All of the switches in position 0 are turned off. Groups 1 and 2 are connected at position 1. Groups 3 and 4 are linked in position 2. In order for it to work properly, you must connect groups 2 and 4 together. These jumpers were already installed on the Blue Seas switch I was replacing. To make this switch work properly, I had to fabricate and install them myself. The details on these switches are cheap in comparison to the Blue Seas switches, which is a real pain.
This is a high-quality switch that can handle a lot of power. I wanted to run a 30 amp RV line to the side of my house for my travel trailer to plug into, so I patched into the circuit going to the electric dryer outlet (which we don't use because we have a gas dryer). I won't go into detail about how I did it, but with this switch installed in the attic where I patched into the dryer line, I can choose between using the electric dryer outlet or the RV outlet, but not both at the same time, which was the whole point of installing this switch. We don't use the electric dryer outlet, so we leave it switched to RV outlet use. But if we ever move, all I have to do is switch back to an electric dryer and we'll be fine.
If I set it to 1, it will run the Generator or shore power if our Bus conversion is plugged in, and if I set it to 2, it will run the Bus through our inverter, batteries, and solar panels. There is an automatic switch that does both of these things, but it costs a lot more money, takes a long time to ship, and is patent-pending. br>Both L1 and L2 will be used. L2 in our RV, which previously only ran one or the other at 30 amps, will now run one at 30 amps and the other at 20 amps. I don't have to worry about what is connected to which plug, etc. It will run everything except the AC's unless you have a spit unit, in which case it will if you have enough battery power and a big enough inverter.
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