NSi Industries, LLC Rocker Switches, On Off Circut Function, SPST, 15/7.5 amps at 125/250 VAC, 0.625" Width, 1.250" Height, 0.828" Depth, Red - 77150RQ
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A switch of this capacity can handle up to 15 amps at 125 volts AC, so it is capable of handling To be sure it will snap into the rectangular opening, you must look at the mounting dimensions.
A wiring diagram helped me solve my problem, but I didn't find it until I searched online. There is a 125/250 VAC rating for the switch. To plug in a light, you need to connect it to the ground. As a result, it is powered by the voltage difference between the switch's power source and AC neutral/ground.
I can't say for sure if it will work if the switch you are replacing has 3 prongs and the clips built in, but if it looks like this, it should. Check to see if the switch you are planning to replace has the same amp capacity as the equipment
The product is not waterproof. Nonetheless, it is used in certain marine applications.
Selected User Reviews For NSi Industries, LLC Rocker Switches, On Off Circut Function, SPST, 15/7.5 amps at 125/250 VAC, 0.625" Width, 1.250" Height, 0.828" Depth, Red - 77150RQ
I went to the manufacturer's website, but was surprised to find they did not provide the measurements behind the hole. Consequently, there is no information on what the panel dimensions of the switch are, only what the flange measures, posing a question about how the switch will work with the hole. It was an issue because I'd bought another switch earlier which, when opened, had a lot too much slop to be usable. I didn't want to make the same mistake again. As a result, I decided to take a chance and it worked out okay. I got these measurements for the switch body on the inside of the panel. With the "ears" compressed the longer dimension includes the panel's switch (that will expand to hopefully secure the switch in the panel when fully expanded). My measurement is based on my best guess of the amount of compression they looked like they would need to achieve to clear the hole when in place I agree. Wide
1. Measurements are 48" wide and 1" high. Its outer dimensions are 0. 7845 inches tall by 0. 7845 inches wide. Size 727 inches by 1 inch There is no way the hole can be that large. My Astron power supply fits ok in the hole of the sheet metal panel. This hole has a diameter of 0 mm. One-fifth of a mile by one inch. "125" in length. This is characterized by a bit of slop and wiggle, but none that makes it useless. It may be possible to have a panel twice the thickness of The grip would probably be better if the 05" was used. The other thing I don't like is that the wiring diagram labels the terminals as "A -" The following is a transcript of my test. Although the switch case is labeled "1 - C", the label on the switch is "A - C". The following are two examples of such an agreement It is not encouraging to see "3". In order to determine whether the connections were working before installing the switch, I verified the continuity between the terminals by operating it. It is a good idea for you to do the same.
There is a wiring diagram on the back of the switch, but you do not need to use it. Before connecting the wires, get a meter and check the connections. These came in 3 pieces and they all had the hot and the light switched, so the light would only come on but not the load. As long as I had checked these with a meter first to make sure they were working properly and that they were connected correctly, I could have caused an electrical problem. Had I followed the diagram on the package blindly, I would have absolutely built a major electrical problem.
0 should be the minimum size of the hole. The frame must be 53" wide and a minimum of 1" high. The tallest member of the family is 8. 5" It's just confusing to read the wiring diagram that comes with the switch - and not wrong. The terminals are designated 1,2,3 on the diagram and on the switch they are labeled A, B, and The other confusing part on the switch is the line terminal (120 vac black hot wire to the switch) and load terminal (120 vac black hot wire out to whatever you're controlling with the switch) are both silver and the neutral terminal (120 vac white wire) is brass. In contrast, a standard outlet has the terminals color coded opposite from how a dimmer control works, so don't be suckered in by the backward.
This is an excellent little rocker switch, and it is of high quality. What could the manufacturer possibly have done that would mess up the specifications, or the wiring In the rocker switch, the lugs are labeled (from left to right) "1, "2", and "3", but in the diagram, they are labeled (also from left to right) "C", "B", and "A. ". This was one of those situations where I had to check with a meter to see what the actual results are. "1" is equal to "A", "2" is equal to "B", and "3" is equal to For us laymen, we can think of number 1 as a line (black wire), number 2 as the device we want to turn on or off and number 3 as It is important to note that "3" (neutral) is brass colored, which is not a Whatever the case, it is simply what I needed.
I would like to point out one thing The switch was installed upside down because of our novice status, which obviously did not After flipping it around, we were able to achieve success. That's how we came to realize we needed to try it, when another commenter mentioned Installation was easy and the price was fair.
After ordering this switch and installing it, I had my buffer back up and running in just ten The following notes should be heeded The following is from page 1 of the book 'Replacing Parts for Dummies' Connect the device to a power source but make sure it is unplugged. Take a piece of paper and draw a diagram of how your existing switch is wired, and make notes (as in, get a piece of paper and draw a little diagram). This one should also be connected in the same manner. Using a meter is a better idea if you're unsure. You may wish to have a professional replace it for you if you are not sure.
I had an electric wood stove heater that broke after my grandchild sabotaged it in some way. Whether it works or not is unknown. I was planning to get rid of the switch, but then I saw this one and thought maybe it should be replaced. I had to file the switch slot a little bit, but other than that, it was pretty much a plug and play installation. Taking care of these little ones is super simple for this Nana.
An opening of 125" is found on an outlet. I am very pleased with the results. On a heavy duty power strip, I replaced the faulty switch. My only task was to solder the old wiring into place. You need to make sure the wires are connected correctly. There is a 120vac black incoming hot terminal at #1. the 120vac outgoing power coming from the switch when it is In #3, we have a neutral white background back to the You may not be able to use the light if you connect it incorrectly. I find it to be OK.
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