JIANFA Car DIY Switch Paste Type Rocker Switch Off/ON Universal DC12V Switch for Fog Driving Lights neon Lights LED Light bar etc. (Black)
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My response to that would be negative. However, I'd put it in the category of water-resistant.
In the switch shown at left, the top (far left) black wire goes to the lights,*br>the middle wire goes to the ground, and the bottom (right) black wire goes to the hot circuit. This would be nice if it were done before the battery was connected. In this way, if it gets too hot it will melt the wires instead of blowing a fuse.
A recent installation that I did on my Harley is about an inch and a quarter square by an inch and a quarter square. Once you peel off the clear plastic and stick it to a clean area, it seems to stay in place quite well. You just need to be careful when purchasing them, as I wanted two. The order was placed and the manner in which it was done. Two sets of these are in my hands. Billed twice for the same product. However, they do a very good job apart from that.
I'm not sure. My rigging failed when I tried to hook it to my motor switch on my boat. Those were 3 out of 5 You can. The front and back lights should be on (and the front one should be To make mine a single switch, I had to set it that way.
Selected User Reviews For JIANFA Car DIY Switch Paste Type Rocker Switch Off/ON Universal DC12V Switch for Fog Driving Lights neon Lights LED Light bar etc. (Black)
There is a problem with the soldering on the included switch, and anyone could do better. It should be opened once it is delivered and repaired. There's no problem with the wiring, as it's thick and should be able to handle quite a bit of load. There are three prongs on this switch, which simply allows the LED to be on or off when the circuit is on or off. This case looks so nice because I used quality switches of my own specification (some momentary, some toggle, etc) and they are in a clean, simple design. To begin with, I thought I could buy the case alone or perhaps have someone 3D print it for me. The end result worked out to be cheaper and better since I removed the crappy switch and put my own in. My frames were 16mm, which was too small (I think a 19mm would fit, but did not 3) I used a rubber grommet to secure, but if you have washers, they should work too. There are large gaps and flexible material, which result in little ingress protection. The enclosure itself is ill-fitting, and it is not sealed at all. You could use some sealant to give you a little peace of mind, but you will not have any security. As such, I have given it 4 stars not because none of this is great (or even good) but because it was the only product that I was able to repurpose for my purposes. On the basis of just the product alone, I would give it a rating of It is, and it is two A 3-star rating is deserved.
My goal was to control two pairs of LED driving lights simultaneously with this system. As an added bonus, I liked that the switch could be mounted without drilling holes in my car's interior, as well as I could mount it so I would have a visual indicator (the red LED light) to show me whether the switch was on or off in the vehicle. This is wired to a relay and linked to two internal fuses, so that the lights cannot be turned on unless the ignition is turned on. Install was simple since I have added many accessories to vehicles over the years.
The switch works extremely well, feels decently constructed, and mounted easily. Bumper service is reasonable and the product seems to be of decent quality. The red LED light in the switch, however, turns on and off by itself when it is in the On position. That is not supposed to happen, so I have to fiddle with it constantly to determine exactly which position the switch is As simple as this error is, it makes the whole purpose of buying this particular switch moot. The switch, which is located inside the housing, is a generic switch which I have a few (previously purchased from Amazon for other applications where I drilled into the mounting surface), so I'll try to pull it out and replace it with another such that the problem should be resolved. The generic switches I've used in the past have sometimes gone bad after limited use and some have never even worked at all, which is why I tend to buy many of them at a time for a few dollars each. However, it is really inconvenient to have to go through the labor of rewiring a switch underneath the dash again due to.
The point I am trying to make is A very poor amount of product information is provided in the Amazon advertisement. It comes with an LED which is supposed to turn on when power is connected to the switch, but no instructions are provided for wiring I made a few tests to determine the thin-end of the spectrum Generally, the 3rd wire should be located downstream of the appliance the switch will be used to control and be connected to the negative (common) wire. In the absence of that, 2 things will occur In most switches, the red LED on top will never come on when the appliance is switched off, or else it will come on whenever it is switched on. You must beware. For a switch with an internal light that indicates power is being fed to something, I'd advise you to stay away from this, especially if the supplier/seller does not get at least a 2-year Amazon feedback rating This grade was based on the grader's English proficiency.
It looks good on my project, but it would be helpful to include wiring instructions for those with less electronics expertise.
It is easy to wire up the switch except for the pain of routing the wires from the switch compartment under the hood to the fuse box. There is a problem because the adhesive used isn't strong enough to adhere to the most common dash panel surfaces with pebbled surfaces under anything less than perfect Initially, I washed the area (it's a vertical surface), waited for it to dry, and then held the switch in place for 60 seconds Within a second. Initially, it was secure, but the next morning the base was gone. This is my second attempt Following through had the same result. It was winter and the issue seems to have improved as the weather has warmed up.
In this case, I am using it as a mute switch for a Uniden R7 radar detector that I mounted between the driver It's exactly what I was looking for, except for the weak tape and the wrong type of switch for me. I would give it 5 stars if I could find anything like it.
My needs are met perfectly with this. The two mounting holes are exposed once the cover is removed. The connections were solid and the prices were fair.
In order to use this switch, I bought it for My car amp can be turned on and off manually with this line. When it was wired with a 10A fused line, coming from the amps power input, it worked fine. I added a voltmeter with a 350mA draw to the circuit and now it does not work. The wires coming from the switch to the remote wire line are still connected when the switch is turned on. Finding an open in the line going from the switch to the remote wire line, I replaced it. It still doesn't work. In the meantime, I'll just operate this (power, to remove), then Except for some internal part that might not be working, this machine should be able to function. This is not logical since voltage passes through but the continuity is broken. It would have been better to find 9$ Walmart switches but I found they were better for 4$.
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