mxuteuk 2pcs HH54P DC 6V Coil 14 Pin 3A 4PDT LED Indicator Electromagnetic Power Relay, with Base, with DIN Rail Slotted Aluminum

Diode and ground plane are examples of rail components. The relay's schematic is printed on the side, but it's difficult to read because it's printed in black ink on a dark background. I removed the plastic cover, placed the relay in front of a white background, and photographed the pinout with my cellphone for easy reference (see photo attached). br>br>Please keep in mind that this is the view of the relay contacts from the bottom of the relay. The numbers correspond to those embossed on the socket next to the screw terminals, which are barely visible. To see them clearly, I needed a flashlight. br>br>It would be great if they included a paper slip in the package with both the relay and socket pinouts.

London Pope

| Jan 21, 2021

I bought two of these relays to control a two-phase power supply. pool pump with two phases and a two-phase pool pump 7A draw on each leg of the phase cleaner pump I decided not to risk the connection after seeing the wire used between the lug of the relay and the contact (plus one of the relays had a buzzing coil), so I returned these and replaced them with 30A contactors. I've seen it all before- Even though the pins connecting the contact to the lug at the base of the relay appeared thicker than the wire connecting the contact to the lug at the base of the relay, they were rated at 8A. br>br>I believe these would work fine with lower voltage and/or current (assuming the coils don't buzz when energized). It's also worth noting that the LED indicator is a nice addition - to indicate that the coil is energized visually.

Anaya Hester

| Jan 25, 2021

These are a good option for non-critical home and vehicle projects. The LED is polarity sensitive and has no kickback suppression built in. Wire Positive to 8 (Right Side) and Negative to 7 (Left Side). Use your own Kickback Suppression diodes (I recommend the 1n4007 or Mallory PTC 205 for this application). Some engineers prefer to use a capacitor, but I prefer the diode.
Pros:
1 - These relays come branded with a variety of gibberish names, but they all appear to be the same so far. br>2 - Low-cost no-name relays (that work well in the short term, if not the long term) Features are good, and the LEDs are easily visible. br>3 - As good as Idec, Allen- Bradley, and others at a fraction of the cost. br>4 - Comes with decent sockets, a 3-relay wide aluminum DIN rail, and even screws to secure your DIN rail!
Cons: br>1 There is no top mechanical indicator flag; there is a window for one, but there is no flag; there are two very small windows (non-functional). On each side, there are frosted areas) right at the contacts, but they're nearly impossible to see once inside a panel.
2 - In DC models, there is no internal suppression. You get a lot of stuff, but no suppression diode, which is unfortunate.
3 - Check for polarity sensitive LEDs that don't follow the rules. (Inquire as to how I know)br>4 - No-name relays at a low price - This product should not be used in any mission-critical applications. This should not be used to control a heater or anything else that could cause a building to burn down or endanger people or property. For the time being, they work fine; I've had a few in service for a month or more with no problems, but who knows how long they'll last. br>5 It's possible that it won't be available later; be considerate of the next tech (you?). ) and keep a few extras in the panelbox. br>br>Overall, I was able to justify 5 stars because the negatives, which aren't all that bad, are mitigated by the price; I'm growing in confidence in these as time goes on, but I won't be controlling any hazardous devices with them, and I don't recommend you do either. However, upon closer inspection, they appear to be constructed in the same manner as the name-brand versions, with no visually alarming features. I'm curious as to what the contacts are made of (they appear to be "standard"), and if the coil is actually copper (it's soldered in place and appears to be heavy enough that I'd assume it's real copper, not "CCA" - Copper Clad Aluminum). Overall, these are a great product for the hobbyist (or financially strapped small company) to use in intrinsically safe equipment controls. br>Before retiring, I owned and operated a small industrial controls company, and I've used relays since the 1970s - I'm not new to the product, just to let you know. br>PS An Idec, PB, or AB relay like this would cost $20 to $50 depending on where you buy it and how many you buy. br>(Please don't pass judgment on my panel; it's still a work in progress (but it's up and running) and isn't fully dressed. ).

Ellis Molina

| Oct 24, 2021

What you pay for is exactly what you get. I'm likely to return these and instead spend more money on name-brand relays from a reputable electronics supplier. It simply does not appear to be worth the risk in order to save a few dollars on these. br>br>One of the two relays I ordered had an internal LED that was disconnected - Quality control is abysmal. The LED and resistor had clearly separated during the factory soldering process, so they both had solder on them but were not connected. A quick soldering job (the clear cover is easy to remove) fixes the problem, but it shows a complete lack of quality control, which is concerning for a device rated at 110V and 10A. br>br>In regards to the 10A rating: Running these at 10A would make me very nervous - The bonding wires from pins 5 and 6 to the movable contacts appear to be of a thin gauge, as do the connections to the copper/brass of the moving contact.

Hailey Kirby

| May 02, 2021