Functional Devices RIB2401B Power Relay, 20 Amp SPDT, 24 Vac/dc/120 Vac Coil, NEMA 1 Housing
Score By Feature
OveReview Final Score
Product Description
Questions & Answers
Yes, both questions are correct. 20Amp SPDT Enclosed Power Relay The coil voltage input is 24 volts AC/DC. 120VAC ; 50- 60 Hz
The unit is being used to power a duct booster fan (120 V-AC). The relay is powered by 1/4 hp) from my 24v out put terminal on my HVAC circuitboard, so you should be fine.
If you're referring to the dimensions, they're 60mmx82mmx47mm tall.
The connection is a single switch (SPDT, which stands for Single pole double throw and means on or off).br>If you connect only one warmer, it will be turned on. If both wires are connected to the relay, it will be overloaded. It's a 20 amp device, so 12 12 equals 24 amps. br>br>If you want to be more creative, you can connect a manual switch to one of the warmers, then connect this relay to that device; the warmer will be controlled depending on which way the manual switch is turned; turn the manual switch the other way, and the other warmer will be controlled.
Selected User Reviews For Functional Devices RIB2401B Power Relay, 20 Amp SPDT, 24 Vac/dc/120 Vac Coil, NEMA 1 Housing
So take this with a grain of salt, but I liked this relay because it could be connected directly to an electric junction box's punch out box. This relay was used in conjunction with a small but powerful water pump. Little Giant 554542 VCMX-Little Giant 554542 VCMX-Little Giant 554542 VCMX-Little Giant 554542 VCMX-Little 20ULS- also purchased on amazonbr>br>As a result, my basement dehumidifier was constantly filling up, and I had to manually dump it. Instead, I use the pump as a condensate catcher, and it automatically kicks in every now and then based on a float switch to pump out the water to my sewer line; I just added a T to a nice tube that was already going in. Not bad. br>br>However, if the water pump overflows, it is protected by a float shutoff switch. But it's a low-voltage switch. So the power is supplied by a 24V transformer, which can either open or close the circuit. On the front, there is a nice diagram. I preferred to fail open, but that was purely a personal choice. br>br>So, as long as the emergency float switch is not thrown, the transformer supplies power to the 24v side of the relay, and 115v power is supplied to the new outlet to power the dehumidifier. BUT - If the pump overflows, the 24v loop is cut, the transformer cuts power to the 115v side, and the dehumidifier loses power and shuts down. br>br>It's a nice design.
Control the speed of the whole house fan using Alexa/Echo. Okay, it's hard to get excited about a relay, but this one has served me well. I'm using it to control the speed of my two-wheeled vehicle. ES- QuietCool ES- ES- ES- ES- ES- ES- My Alexa SmartThings setup includes a 3100 whole-house fan and two on/off Z-Wave switches. Wave switches (one controls the fan's power, while the other, via this relay, selects Hi/Lo). br>br>I realize the 20 amp relay rating is excessive for the 670W fan motor, but I wanted to be prepared in case I wanted to upgrade. In the future, the fan will be of a larger size. br>br>I directly mounted this relay to the fan's junction box; the ideal match The relay comes with a lock nut that can be used to attach it to junction boxes with 1/2" openings. The connection diagram is clearly marked on the unit itself, making this a high-quality product that comes highly recommended.
I usually use Aube relays (e. g. , e. g. , e. g. , e. g. , e. g RC840) for the vast majority of my applications (e. g. I liked that they have external 24VAC / 24VDC coil connections, as well as electric heating and circuit controls. I usually use these with Aube telephone controllers, which come in single channel and four channel versions. The contacts on Aube relays are only "NO" style, which means they are only closed when the coil is energized ('normally open except when energized'). I've been using these RIB2401B enclosed relays instead since discovering them. They can run the coils on 24 VAC, 24VDC, or 110V, depending on their needs. The fact that the relay is a single pole double throw (SPDT) version with both NO (normally open except when energized) and NC (normally closed except when energized) contacts is a significant advantage. br>br>Many of my applications involve using the relay to provide near-constant power (for example, to operate a camera circuit that may require a power interruption on occasion). It is possible to configure the SPDT relay in the NC mode. Except when the relay is energized, all contacts are normally closed. When the coil is energized, an LED on both the Aube and the RIB relays illuminates. br>br>The most significant flaw / disadvantage is that the RIB lacks direct external terminals / connections for low voltage signal lines. You can either mix your low voltage (i. e. Within the electrical box, connect the lower voltage (24 V) signal lines to the higher voltage (110V or more) signal lines, or isolate them. One of the reasons for not having external connections was to avoid a hazard when the coil was powered by 110V. It may also be possible to run the coil wires through a hole in the housing (but only if the coil is powered by 24V).
I saw this product, but I also saw an "Electronics Salon" relay for half the price, with two relays in one package and a life expectancy of 1,000,000 operations under full load, according to the specifications. What a fantastic bargain! What's the worst that can happen? I awoke to a cold house and a very hot boiler the morning after I installed the less expensive relay. The cheap Chinese relay lasted only a day, and it had no reason to fail because the pump was only drawing a small fraction of its rated load through it. So I replaced it with this relay and realized what I had done wrong. If you need a relay to work, make sure you get one with a track record of success. I've had no issues with it, and I enjoy the LED lighting.
This is a relay that has activation coils for both 24 and 110 volts. It is connected to the load via the Lutron Casseta switch. The Casseta switch can only handle 6 amps, whereas this relay can handle 20 amps. It's a little tricky to wire, but there are clear instructions and a wiring diagram in the Casseta switch box to help you figure it out. It does, however, require that the switch be installed in accordance with the national electrical code. Some older homes may lack ground wires or power is supplied to the fixture rather than the switch. Both of these are in violation of current electrical codes and will not work with this device unless it is wired into the fixture rather than the switch.
Allows for both low voltage and line voltage triggers, though there is no way to separate the low voltage trigger wires from the line voltage wires if that is how you want to wire it. I didn't have to worry because I used line voltage triggers. br>br>Now, my 3/4 HP whole house fan is controlled by a new 1/2 HP rated 120V switch, which replaced one that had burned out prior to the relay installation, for some reason. The relay is probably overkill at 20A, but hey, I'm happy now.
Related Products For Functional Devices RIB2401B Power Relay, 20 Amp SPDT, 24 Vac/dc/120 Vac Coil, NEMA 1 Housing
