Hilitand MOS FET PWM 3-20V to 3.7-27VDC 10A 4-Channel Driver Module PLC Amplifier Circuit Board
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Dear customers,br>Input can be connected to MCU / PLC signal control, power supply - is the source of power for output-controlled equipment, and out out - is directly connected to a load such as a motor or a solenoid valve, for example.
Simple isolated optocouplers (just and -) are used as inputs. In my application, I'm using signals that are 5 volts (or less). PWM inputs are a self-created option. During bench testing, output/input leds were turned on with a 3 volt input, with input current increasing as input voltage increased. br>[I might have given this circuit a higher rating than it deserves. It's worth noting that the transistors are mounted, paddled, and connected incorrectly. For inductive loads, keep in mind that this circuit is not back EMF protected.
If you're using PWM to control a motor, you'll need inductive load protection. I believe the first load limit encountered will be heat. For long periods of time, don't believe the stated output current; a fuse is less expensive than replacing circuits.
A mosfet is a semiconductor device that acts as a switch. Use a pull-up resistor to raise the voltage. When the switch is turned on, it pulls the wire to the ground. When the switch is closed, it will pull up to whatever voltage you have set for the pull up. To turn a load on or off, connect power to the load and connect the other side of the load to ground through the mosfet.
Selected User Reviews For Hilitand MOS FET PWM 3-20V to 3.7-27VDC 10A 4-Channel Driver Module PLC Amplifier Circuit Board
Using an automotive 30 amp relay coil, I'm testing to see if the Mosfets get hot or not. So far, the board has been freezing! br>br>I've been working with Arduino and Raspberry Pi controllers to write code and develop systems. This is the first interface I've come across that can control a relay of the automotive variety. Relay boards with non-removable relays are the only thing available on the market. Running a relay to power a relay is a bad idea. The relays on these boards are only rated for 10 amps, so if one of them fails, the inter board is useless unless you can solder a replacement in. For general use, 10 amp relays are insufficient; you'll need a relay that can handle twice the load of whatever you're trying to power. 8 amps is the standard for most automotive hardware. The relays on these junk boards are insufficient; you must use the flimsy relays on these boards to signal a real relay with a current rating of at least 30 amps. A 5 volt logic controller can now be used to power something directly. br>br>So far, the board appears to be in good shape. Its build quality is excellent, and it arrived quickly; I was surprised at how quickly it arrived. br>br>To the vendor: Please do not discontinue this product; instead, expand it to an 8-channel or even larger system. Please send us shields that can be used with an Uno R3. This is the interface we're all looking for, not non-replaceable relay boards that are prone to failure.
I've only tested the board (lightly) on the bench, but it appears to be in good working order. HOWEVER, prior to purchasing, I failed to notice the board's mounting issues. On one end of the circuit board, there are only two mounting holes, and the surface-mounted components are close to the edge of the board. In summary, mounting this board securely (which is required because the hookup wires will tug on the board) will be difficult. In addition, I have serious doubts about this design's ability to support four ten-amp loads. Without overheating and smoking PC traces, a total of 10 amps per board is possible. Finally, compared to other clones available on the internet, this board is more expensive. I reasoned that if I paid more, there would be fewer DOAs.
The kl25z provides a 3 volt input. When the KL25Z sent a 3, the input LED would light up. The output FET would not energize with a 3v signal, so I shorted out the input led and they started working. With a 5v signal, I'm sure they'd work just fine.
Why would they only put screw holes on one side of the board? I had to use spacers under the other side, which is fine, but I'd prefer the durability of even one more mounting screw on the other end of the board. Aside from that, these have been working well for me, driving 24v dimmable LEDs at about 2A per channel with my Arduino project.
PWMx can be connected to 3 if it is connected to 3. 3 volts, and GNDx to an OUTPUT pin on your processor or whatever. have-you. If you output a number of ones (3. The MOSFET will be "off" if the voltage is greater than 3 volts. The MOSFET will turn "on" if you output a "0. " " With an ESP32 processor, it works perfectly. br>It's a great little board, except for the lack of mounting holes on one side and the fact that mine has one dead channel.
GPIO 3 is used to drive the inputs. The outputs were not triggered by 3v. Led blinks - However, I was unable to make this work with a number of less than four. On the input side, the voltage is 8 volts.
The device does not operate in the same way as a relay network. When the circuit is turned on with the help of a PWM circuit, power is applied to the correlated output and - br>Easy to set up; I believe each circuit is rated at 10 amps, but I'm not sure.
An oscilloscope was used to verify the 5 V PWM signal applied to PWM1 and GND1. Per pulse, the PWM led flashes as it should. 12 VDC was applied to the power supply and the power supply - The LED that indicates the power supply turns on. On OUT1 or OUT1-, there is always output. Whether or not there is a pulse. This holds true for all channels as well as both of the cards I bought from this vendor. I requested assistance from the seller via email but received no response. I am unable to apply for or return to this position.
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