Honeywell TH115-AF-GA/U, 4.9 x 2.8x 0.9 in, white
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Designed for use with electric heating systems, this 120 volt Line Voltage thermostat measures current output at a certain voltage. According to Vicega, the system is hydronic, but it uses hot water to heat its
Yes, you can use 2, 3 or more floor mats as long as the total amps of the heat do not exceed the thermostat's 15 amp rating
Honeywell sensors are the sensors that I have used with this thermostat. Just in case, I always run a backup sensor as well. I think it's a good buy for $10. Amazon isn't the cheapest place to buy the sensor -- they're cheaper elsewhere It is easy to find the part number by going to Google. The way I see it, IMO Instead of matching the floor mat to the thermostat, you should match the sensor. Honeywell might be able to help you find a compatible one from suntouch but you will have to check. Taking the risk is a bad idea since you might get one with your mat, at worst, and you will wind up spending $20 to get two Honeywell products, at most. Could saving $10 really be worth taking any risks? Ultimately, you would need to check with Honeywell to see if they can get it to work. Is there really any point in taking the risk? I would be surprised if Honeywell would tell you that any sensor other than theirs is approved and tested for use. You can give it a Was Suntouch able to answer your questions? There is a possibility they have tested different combinations of mats and thermostats if they only make mats and not thermostats. There is a good chance you can check there. Even so, it doesn't seem like a lot of money to me and IMO it's pointless. For the case of a sensor failure, you need 2 sensors During the installation of the software or over the long run. There is a problem with thin and fragile sensor wires Wires on the heating element are not heated when they are plugged in. An easy way to nick one is to cut the cord.
Specifically, your device is a th111gfci-based one With a 120-volt thermostat, you can control resistive loads as high as 2000 watts at 120 volts. The Honeywell TH115 is a programmable thermometer Initially, GA was designed to handle 1800W at 120 V, which is slightly less than what it appears to be designed for. In that case, you should be fine as long as your electric floor heating system draws less than 1800W. To fix the issue, you need to find out why the old thermostat failed. As a result of overload, the Honeywell TH115 died You are not going to be able to use GA.
Selected User Reviews For Honeywell TH115-AF-GA/U, 4.9 x 2.8x 0.9 in, white
My rating was 5 out of 5 The seller was given a 5 star rating. A 4-star rating is deserved by the product We gave it five stars because the original unit lasted a little more than six years (it was purchased and installed by a remodeling contractor). Although a warranty period such as this is twice as long, I feel an item such as this should last for a long time. In addition, the thermostat has a nice selection of programming options, and is easy to use. A blank display had been seen on the original unit. It was blank as well, so I bought a replacement unit after verifying that the unit's power was on. (via Amazon) the seller had sent a nice email to thank us for the purchase and let us know that they should be contacted in case of any issues. I asked them how to troubleshoot the unit, so they replied to me. I left a message with all the representatives since they were all busy. A quick call back was made by Mark, the owner. Besides being professional, helpful, friendly, and patient, he was also extremely friendly. It turned out that the wiring on this unit was identical to that on the old one, but the wire pattern was different. I should write myself a note It is always a good idea to It was in fact the instructions that I had read As I was troubleshooting the original unit, I was reading an old users manual I had pulled out of a filing cabinet. The second note I'd like to make to myself Ensure the manual you're viewing is the correct one. It appears that the wiring diagram is also on the back of the device, if I had bothered to look. As I'd already read the (wrong) manual, I didn't take the time to pay attention. Therefore, should you buy this as a replacement, be aware! Mark must have guessed at it right away, so it must be a common problem. Thanks to Mark's courteous help, the issue has been resolved. you for your kind words! A purchase was made on behalf of wife Mary has been made by Greg Harrington (on behalf of her account).
It is not possible to connect to Wifi. There are two parts to it In this case, the actual switch power unit is used for the display. I had broken the first one after 3 1/2 years due to scrambled display. A new one was bought and only the display was replaced since switching out the display is not difficult. In two more years, the entire thing will be Replacing the power unit from the last purchase allowed me to get back to work. Another 4 years later it started giving GFI errors and shutting down all the time, but there was no ground fault in the load, so I had to replace it for the third time in the 9 1/2 years that I have owned it! My warranty was good for three years, but I never received Now that I'm back in business, I wonder how long that will last? Also, I have an extra display in case the next time it fails since the GFI malfunction was in the power supply! Try a different design in the future It is possible to find this model under at least three different.
(I was not sure whether the problem was due to a bad GFI or a failed thermostat, so I started with the less expensive component, a new thermostat. A false alarm was apparently occurring. A description of the positions of the source and load pair There has been a change in the power pair. It is possible to install the new unit and blindly copy the old connection, however the load and the source-connections would be wrong There will be an exchange of power pairs It would be bad if that happened. As a result, one must take particular care with a new unit to ensure that the load and source power pairs are connected correctly, especially if the unit is replacing an older, but supposedly identical one. Honeywell would also be better off if the wires had labels on them. There is no doubt about it There is no doubt about it After installing the thermostat, it is essential that you perform the GFI test sequence (using the somewhat hidden button at the top). It is necessary to lock down the screws for the floor thermal sensor with a jewelers screwdriver. Programming isn't hard, but in these days of the internet everything is a little easier I think it would be awesome if this thermostat could be controlled by an Amazon Echo or an Alexa.
Everything appears to be in order after I checked all the wire connections for continuity, resistance, etc. As soon as I noticed the problem, I figured it had to Therefore, I opted to use the newer revision so it would fit properly and I would already have a basic understanding of how it works. In order to ensure the wires were connected the same way for the new and the old thermostat, I transferred the wires from the old thermostat to the new. I was unable to turn on the new thermostat. A long period of confusion and reading of the manual made me realize that the wiring layout was In the old thermostat, the load wires were located inside, while the new thermostat has them on the outside. As soon as I reversed the wiring, everything worked properly. The situation is now back to normal, which is great. It seems to work better than the old one, but the old one failed sooner than I My hope is that this new revision will last a long time.
The options you have if you're reading this should be pretty familiar to you. You can use the unit to control floor temperatures and the modes allow you to heat to a targeted floor temperature, targeted air temperature, or a targeted air temperature while controlling the min and max floor temperatures. There are also four schedule settings per day, so you can create separate schedules each There are a couple of things you may want to know about this (if it matters It can be wired either to 120 or 240 volts, depending on how it is coiled. The instructions that come with the unit are different from the markings on it. Instructions differ from units in the way input and output are handled. I'm not sure if this is a typo or if the translation is incorrect. instructions, and it seems to be working. *)****If you opt for a 24-hour check up With the hr clock (military/European style clock, only Celsius temperatures are possible on the unit. Without a contract you are only entitled to a 12-month contract The time is displayed in hours (AM/PM)/Fahrenheit. It does have a heat anticipator option if you want it to turn on or off at a certain time or if you want it to decide when to turn on and off to reach the target temperature by a certain time. It's good and I.
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