Surebonder Threaded Insert Tool For Metal, Fiberglass, Plastic - Includes 5 Sizes of Threaded Mandrels & Nose Pieces (8510)
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Yes, we only sell replacement parts on our website; if you search for 8510, you'll find mandrels.
After the issues I encountered, I would never purchase this tool. The threaded inserts that compress the rivet nut had to be reworked completely. The rivet nut is compressed by the inserts, which are poorly threaded and strip out of the insert before compressing it. It's a shame, because it has the potential to be a useful tool.
1/4- 20 in aluminum, but steel is also an option, though it is more difficult to set and will likely reduce tool life.
It is determined by the nut's depth. you use as a security certificate br>For sheat metal, some are shallow. 1/4 deep nutcerts would be required.
Selected User Reviews For Surebonder Threaded Insert Tool For Metal, Fiberglass, Plastic - Includes 5 Sizes of Threaded Mandrels & Nose Pieces (8510)
BAD DESIGN, BAD MANUFACTURE, BAD METAL, BAD TOOL. Surebonder is a SUREFAILURE in every way. I only required a low-quality tool, but this piece of carp utterly failed to meet even the most rudimentary of requirements! Remove yourself from the situation. The threaded mandrels that thread into your inserts to pull (squeeze) them are the worst part. They're made in China for a pittance. Dimensions, material, and construction are all extremely poor. The 10- The 32 mandrel I used was a 0 mandrel. 008 inches smaller in diameter than the screws that were supposed to go into the (high-rise) construction. After installation, the rivet nuts are made of high-quality American aluminum aircraft. The threaded mandrel simply pulled/stripped the thread tips out of my inserts when I tried to set (Install) them, leaving them partially expanded so I couldn't get them out without drilling them, but not tight enough to grip and resist rotation so I could drill them. CARP! I made the mistake of trying a second one, assuming it was just a bad insert or that I had done something incorrectly (neither of which was the case). Two ruined inserts had to be drilled out as a result of this. br>br>As a result, I carefully measured and inspected each of the four mandrels and nose pieces (there were supposed to be five sizes, but the smallest set, 6-inch, was missing). 32, had gone missing). Each one was horribly undersized, clumsily machined, and extremely loose in the nosepiece. Each appeared to be the ugliest of the lowlifes. Other issues included the fact that the mandrels and nose pieces could not be tightened properly because only knurled grips were provided on the tool knob and nose pieces. br>br>Other issues included the fact that the mandrels and nose pieces could not be tightened well because only knurled grips were provided on the tool knob and nose pieces - For wrenching, there are no flats available. Okay on the nose pieces, but unacceptable on the knob because after it stripped out the treads, I had to twist it quite a bit to unscrew it from the damaged rivet nut, and that simply unscrewed the mandrel from the tool, leaving the mandrel inside the rivet nut! BAD MANUFACTURE, BAD METAL, BAD TOOL. BAD DESIGN, BAD MANUFACTURE, BAD METAL, BAD TOOL. The tool's ergonomics were also poor, requiring you to apply a lot of pressure right away because the handles were too far apart and at an awkward angle to get a good grip. br>br>In conclusion, this is an excellent example of the worst or most inexpensive tools - It's completely unfit for even a rudimentary purpose. Keep your distance from me.
I noticed that the majority of the negative reviews were written by people who used steel nutzerks. DON'T. You might be able to get away with the smaller ones, but this isn't a heavy-duty tool. I've had no problems with one similar to it for the past ten years or so. with nutzurks made of ALUMINUM I know they make a steel nutzurk with a center piece that pulls into the body instead of expanding, but I'm not sure where to get one (I used one years ago). It didn't take a lot of effort to get them to sit down.
This tool failed to perform the task for which it was purchased (setting 8-). (There are 32 rivnuts in total). It was extremely difficult to press the handles to compress the rivnut and lock it in place (I eventually tried setting the rivnut with my body weight on a test piece, which got the handles to move). Even so, with moderate effort and a hand screwdriver, I was able to break the rivnut loose (causing it to spin). There's also no storage for the tool's ends, and the instructions for using it aren't exactly clear. One of the other tools came in handy, and it perfectly set the rivnut.
This is a fantastic method. Until you get the hang of it, you can use the depth stop dial (threaded post closest to the handle) to avoid oversqueezing and damaging your threads. The 10-minute mark is one of my favorites. Some cheaper locally available models don't have the 10-inch mandrel that we use a lot in aviation. A 32-mandrel mandrel is a type of mandre (They have the ten-minute time limit. ) 24) I bought two tools so I wouldn't have to switch out mandrels, and they're both interchangeable. This one isn't perfect, but it's a good start. I only use aluminum and have no idea how steel rivnuts are set. It's so convenient to have all of the number, letter, and dimensional drill bits in one place so I can get a perfect tight fit. There aren't any rivets included, but airplanes require specific rivets for the job, so there aren't any issues.
No issues with 24 and 1/4 x 20 aluminum rivnuts. That's exactly what this tool is made for. I'd choose a more durable system if I wanted to install carbon steel or stainless steel. When tightening rivets, I wish the gun had a little more reach, and removing the tool after the nut was expanded was awkward, but it did the job. Out of about twenty nuts, I had to punch out one. Otherwise, it was fine, and I'll use it again without hesitation. This is the way to go if you want to mount plates and brackets on sheet metal without using sheet metal screws. I'm very happy with the outcome.
I made the decision not to because I had made a mistake. I should have bought aluminum rivet nuts or thicker pliers instead. Aside from that, I wish it had come with a blow molded case or something because it's impossible to keep track of the 11 pieces that come with it. If I could go back in time, I would look for something that came with a case.
I've been working with this product for a few months and have been having issues with the thumb screw that tightens the tool's head. To keep it tight, I've had to resort to using plyers. Unfortunately, it's too inconvenient to use any longer. For my job, I really need something like this.
The task of tightening a 20 ribbed steel rivet nut requires two hands, but the tool was unfazed. I also put set 6 to the test. 32 as well as ten Without a hitch, I was able to install 24 steel rivet nuts. Sadly, the 8-year-old The threads on the 32 mandrel were too shallow to set the rivet nuts because it was made from an undersized rod, so I returned it to Amazon without issue after partially stripping two test nuts. br>I decided to purchase a tool from a different manufacturer because it provided more leverage and was able to set the partially stripped nuts left over from the Surebonder test. If you decide to purchase this tool, make sure to inspect the parts for quality control issues and keep in mind that there are tools that can set rivet nuts with less effort.
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