E-Z LOK Knife Threaded Insert for Hard-Wood, Stainless Steel Thread Inserts 1/4-20 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length Pack of 10

I was trying to fit these into the underside of a walnut desktop that was being fitted with a "standing desk" frame. I never used these in my final piece because they didn't work as expected in my test pieces. After these failed to work as expected, I did a lot of research on threaded inserts. Allow me to share the findings with you in the hopes that they will be useful: br>br>These are marketed as "hardwood. " br>br>Drill bit size:br>They recommend a 25/64 drill bit size for this threaded insert on the package, and you can look up which drill bit size they recommend for each of their inserts on their website. This isn't the most common drill bit size; you'll need more than a "basic" drill bit set to have this size; however, when the wood is hardwood, the threaded insert won't fit into a 25/64 size hole. This size may be ideal for soft materials such as pine, but not for hardwood. This was learned through experience and confirmed through Q&A. According to Rockler's website, if you have a question about drill size, you should "increase by 1/64 for actual hardwood," because otherwise the insert will be too tight and won't thread into the hole. Indeed, going from 25/64 to 26/64 (13/32) helps with the hardwood insert. br>br>Inserting the insert:br>The insert has a flathead screwdriver groove for screwing it down into the hole. It's just that it's not a standard-sized flathead. My 20 flatheads were all either too thin or too wide. In fact, E- To drive the threaded insert down into the wood, Z Lock sells a special driver bit. Moreover, as many other reviewers have mentioned, I was unable to get the insert to fit straight. To get the insert to start threading straight, you'd almost need a tapered hole (slightly wider at the top, perhaps 27/62). br>br>Why do you need an insert in the first place?br>Of course, so you can screw a machine screw into hardwood. What is the purpose of using a machine screw? Because you want to be able to insert and remove the screw from its hole multiple times without the hole deteriorating? Ok. br>Instead of tapping on the actual hardwood, why don't you tap on the actual hardwood? According to some woodworking forums, hardwood can be tapped directly. br>br>So I gave it a shot. I made a hole that was slightly smaller than a tenth of an inch in diameter. I used a 24 (1/8" I believe, but it could be smaller) and a 10- 24 pound the walnut with a hammer. Let me tell you something. The threading on the machine screw was perfect. I also tried to strip the machine screw out after removing and re-inserting it 30 times. Let me tell you something. It does not detach itself from the body. br>br>So, you want to put machine screws in hardwood? Simply tap the hardwood directly to save time and effort.

Maddox McKay

| Jun 25, 2021

A lot of 3/8-inch screws are used in my projects. I used to buy the brass inserts because I didn't like how they fed into hardwoods like Walnut and Purpleheart, but these SS inserts have much sharper threads that feed much easier into the wood. The cost difference is justified by this alone.

Aspyn Gregory

| Dec 18, 2021

Stainless steel 8-inch tubing is being installed. With 32 inserts into the heel of any bolt-on neck, you'll have the best neck joint you've ever had. This is a straightforward procedure that results in excellent sonic transfer between the neck and body of an electric guitar. The majority of players will notice this sonic quality. It also makes removing and reinstalling the neck a breeze, but you already knew that from reading previous reviews. Here's what they don't tell you about. br>br> br>br>First and foremost, DON'T BELIEVE FOR A SECOND that a 10-year-old child is capable of learning a foreign language. In a guitar neck, the 24 insert will be better because the holes will be closer to the edge of the neck in most cases. On some bass necks, however, this might not be the case. While careful drilling with large inserts may yield satisfactory results, do you really want to put your skills to the test on your valuable neck? It isn't required because the tensile strength of this 8-foot rope is more than enough. The ability to tighten the neck in 32 arrangements far outweighs your ability to tighten the neck in 32 arrangements. The 8-inch mallet can be used to crush the wood. If you're brave and strong enough, you can use 32 pieces of hardware. br>br>Then, in my haze, I made the mistake of attempting to install this with a hand drill. It's a good thing it worked out for me. Here's what I'd say. Even if the eBay ad where you got this idea says you can, DON'T EVER USE A FRIGGEN HAND DRILL. Sure, you can do it, especially if you're only spending $59. First Act guitar made from 100% recycled cow pie made from 100% recycled cow pie made from 100% recycled co If you don't have access to a drill press, find a friend who does and use it both electrically and manually (by hand turning the main pulley). You should also have a neck cradle of some sort, which allows you to clamp the neck (frets down) onto the drill press table, keeping it stable and square while drilling. br>br>After that, the only time you'll need to use electricity is to drill out the 1/4" pilot holes with a sharp 1/4" Forstner drill bit. The rest of the procedure is completed by manually turning the drill press, which may require assistance from a second person to turn the press's pulley or actuate the feed lever. Personally, I do it alone and pray to God that no one is watching, because spinning the pulley by hand while applying downforce to the press's feed lever and holding the neck steady can be a little strange. br>br>NOTE ON SAFETY. If you're going to turn the drill press by hand, unplug it from the wall outlet first. This is always a good idea before putting your hands into things that will gladly rip your fingers off and ruin your guitar- experience in the game DRILLING THE 1/4" INSERT HOLES. br>br> The Forstner bit is excellent at indicating where you'll be drilling. You can lightly touch off the hole while centering your bit, and the bit will naturally make a perfect circle around the existing pilot hole. This enables you to determine whether or not your X is correct. Before you put the Forstner bit in the wood, make sure the Y alignment is correct. Set your drill speed low enough to avoid burning the wood. br>br> Set the plunge depth on the Forstner to no more than 1/4" past the seated depth of the insert. Set your depth stop (so you don't forget) as soon as you're finished. Drilling any further than necessary is not recommended. This simply weakens the wood unnecessarily, and it may result in new vent holes in your fretboard for all those hot licks you'll be playing. You'll almost certainly have to make a 1-inch cut. 3/4" s. screwed to the exact length you require- When screwing your screws into the inserts, all you really need is at least three threads to catch completely. 4 or more is marginally better, but it may lead to greater satisfaction and confidence). Three threads catching may become four threads catching as the wood compresses over time. br>br>USE A 5/16-INCHE DRILL TO TAPP YOUR NEW HOLES. The drill press was used to turn 18 "bottoming" taps manually. To start the tap, apply some light downforce while turning. The threads will begin to cut in and you will be able to turn off the downforce. A "bottoming tap," by the way, is a tap with a flat bottom (no tip) that can thread all the way to the hole's bottom. On a grinder, you can usually convert a regular tap to a bottoming tap. br>br>At this point, you're probably thinking to yourself that the outside thread on the insert is a 5/16-inch thread. You think that's the tap you want to use, but you're wrong. Sure, it'll work, but not optimally for this application. The 5/16- In relation to the S, the 18 threads get wider and wider. the outer threads of the insert This gives you perfectly synchronized threads at the start of your tapped hole, but they start to mis-align after that. As the insert cuts deeper into the 1/4" hole, align with the insert's outer threads. The outer cutting threads of the insert cut deeper into the bare wood as a result of this. VERIFICATION OF THE FACTS. The outer "cutting" threads of the insert are designed to cut into VIRGIN wood in order to properly seat the insert. The 5/16- While seating it, the 18 tap allows this to happen near the end. Also, the insert should be installed no deeper than the correct depth the first time; do not over-insert it and then back it out to correct the depth. The proper depth is approximately. 005" below the neck's heel surface. BTW, this is the second time. This prevents any chipping by tapping the holes. When inserting the inserts, make sure they go all the way around the hole. Countersinking is a technique for preventing chipping. It's pointless and counterproductive to go out. INSERTING THE INSERT br>br>INSERTING THE INSERT br>br>INSERTING THE INSERT br>b If you only have a couple of jamb nuts and a washer, you can fix an 8-inch door with them. Use a 32 thread with four sides filed flat (so it won't slip in a chuck) to drive the inserts in. However, if you want something that's a lot easier to work with, just use an 8-inch square. To install the insert, use a 32 X 1/4" or 1/2" Allen head cap screw and a firmly locked Allen driver bit (usually a 9/64th Allen driver bit) on the drill press. Once the insert is perfectly seated, this will drive it in dead square, and the screw will back out easily. Just a quick rebuttal The Allen head cap screw is unscrewed by a clockwise jolt on the drill press's main pulley. There's no muss, no fuss, and since it's a visual-based system, it's even better. The Allen head cap screw does not require a robbing washer because you can easily see how far your inserts have been inserted into the wood. This is, in my opinion, a more straightforward method than using jamb nuts and washers. WHERE CAN I GET S. BR>BR>WHERE CAN I GET S. BR>BR>WHERE CAN I GET S. BR> WHAT ABOUT SCREWS WITH THE SAME HEAD AS A FENDER NECK BOLT? Part 91802A204 for the 1-inch version is available from McMaster Carr. 3/4" in length, with part 91802A203 for the 1-inch version. Length of 1/2" They're both in their twenties. 8-Inch Stainless Steel Oval Head Phillips Machine Screws with 8-Inch Stainless Steel Oval Head Phillips Machine Screws with 8-Inch There are 32 threads in total. Some people prefer to work with the number one. 1/2" s. screw. Some people prefer to use a one-digit number. 3/4" s. If necessary, screw it in place and cut it to the desired size. Look into Jamestown Distributors as well. They are in the "8-" category. OP" 32 S/S Machine Screws Oh, and instead of a standard 4-inch neck washer, you might want to use four inset neck washers before attaching the neck to your body. plate with bolts Because of the high tension of your new neck connection, a standard plate might easily warp. You might want to look for a second job. thick 4- plate with bolts Callaham or Tiapantone come to mind. It's possible that com (now defunct) will produce one. GFS makes one, but keep in mind that all of their parts are typically made by the cheapest Asian bidder. REMEMBER that each of these bolt-on options necessitates different screw lengths and insert hole depths. br>br>Best of luck to you. Make an effort not to get hurt.

Laney WHITEHOUSE

| Apr 08, 2021

The item is exactly what it says it is. I made a tripod out of it by embedding it in a block of wood. handle that is appropriate length: br>br>length: br>br>length: br>br>length: br> 626in,15. Outside diameter at threads: 88mmbr>Inside diameter at threads: 88mmbr>Inside diameter at threads: 88mm Outside diameter at wall: 497in, 15mmbr> 12in, 497in 59mmbr>br>Installation was done with a 1/2" drill bit, a 3/8 bolt, and a jam nut. To keep the insert plumb while installing, I used a drill press that was turned off and clamped the bolt in the chuck. br>br>Only four stars because the finish on all five has numerous dings and imperfections, which appear to be the result of being bagged together five times.

Rohan Lawrence

| May 21, 2021

I bought these to make a piece of furniture that I wanted to be able to take apart and store when not in use. The plans I was using stated that these should be inserted into end grain cherry, and that because the inserts don't have as much holding power as end grain, they should be installed with epoxy. br>br>As a result, the inserts must be driven into the threads to cut them, then removed and reinserted with epoxy. Because installing these with a large screwdriver is nearly impossible, you'll need to use the extra installation tool. However, that tool will only drive the insert in; once it's in, you won't be able to take it out. br>br>In the end, I bought another set of inserts that used a hex key, and they worked fine, but they weren't as good as these.

Myra Crowley

| Feb 20, 2021