PC Products PC-Masonry Epoxy Adhesive Paste, Two-Part Repair, 32 oz in Two Jars, Gray 73209
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I believe it has a chance of working. Mine was used to cover some areas of my concrete driveway where the surface had worn away and the aggregate had shown through. After four years, it is still standing. I live in the Mid-Atlantic region of the United States of America. Temperatures range from 15 to 25 degrees Celsius in the south climate zone. The temperature is set at 100 degrees F. On the roads, very little, if any, salt is used. Based on my previous app experience, I'd give it a shot.
This hardens into a stone-like substance. It has the consistency of a solid and contains aggregate (small stones or sand). I believe you could knock down a small amount of roughness with sanding, but I believe you will be disappointed if you try to achieve a smooth surface with sanding. and use up a lot of sandpaper! However, I'm sure you could mold something like Mylar film to the desired smoothness if you laid it on the surface you wanted to be smooth.
I'd feel comfortable using this product as a filler around an anchor that's going into a concrete hole.
I don't believe adhesion would be an issue, but epoxy floor prep is critical and should be done according to manufacturer's instructions. some suggestions Without some kind of crack suppression, I'm not sure if this prevents the crack from coming back through if it's used for crack repair.
Selected User Reviews For PC Products PC-Masonry Epoxy Adhesive Paste, Two-Part Repair, 32 oz in Two Jars, Gray 73209
It's a thick epoxy/silica sand mixture that's more difficult to work with than standard liquid epoxies. Simply scoop out equal amounts of each ingredient onto a piece of cardboard and mix them together. There's no need to rush because it'll take a long time. HAVE ACETONE AND RAGS ON HAND. Acetone will remove the epoxy from your tools in no time. Also, smooth out and blend the epoxy with an acetone-soaked rag and a light touch. It does an excellent job of blending the repair area into the surrounding concrete. I used it to patch a large crack in a rental property's concrete front porch step. The cost of repairing the concrete was $1300. This saved me a lot of money, and after a coat of paint, you won't even notice it.
This was used to repair cracks in a garage floor's cement. br>I widened the crack at the top, cleaned it out, and used their chaulking tube style of this product at the crack's base, allowing it to harden for a day. br>Then, by mixing a small amount at a time (because it sets up quickly), they applied their two parts into the cracks, filling in the remaining space. br>Because it was winter, I used a portable heater to keep the temperature constant for 24 hours. br>It has worked so far, and hasn't cracked or flaked. br>The cartridge style of this stuff is a little laborious because it takes some muscle to dispense and the tubes only come half-filled (the tube is marked with how much), so it's a little pricey, but so far so good compared to any cements or other products tried. br>To get into the bottom of deep cracks, you should use the tube product first, as using the two-part product is a pain. br>With the two parts, it will be difficult to get to the bottom of a deep crack in a floor or on a wall. br>I believe in doing a job correctly the first time, which requires a little more money and muscle, rather than relying on standard products that will fail and require you to fix it again. br>Will update if anything changesbr>br>br>3/31br>Still going strong, but any issues will be reported. br>7/10 Still going strong, no flaking or cracks!.
I needed a large quantity of epoxy for a concrete repair project and was hoping to save money by not using Simpson Strong-Tie. I've previously used Tie or Rustoleum two-part epoxies. The product is extremely tacky and difficult to work with, to the point where it will not come off the tools and will adhere to the concrete. It was also difficult to combine the A and B parts. It just won't let go of the trowel or the wooden stick. It has a non-skid surface. When cured, it has a slip texture, but it's softer (for epoxy) than either the Simpson Strong-Grip or the Simpson Strong-Grip Plus. When tested with a chisel, Tie or Rustoleum epoxies come out on top. So the product does what it claims to do, but it requires more effort to use than its more expensive counterparts. If I had the chance to redo my project, I would have made a different decision.
For a variety of reasons, we were unable to drill into the slab. The product was thoroughly mixed. Only mix small batches of the product, not the entire 32 oz. at once. Plan ahead of time, mix quickly, and use immediately (workability time is about 15 minutes). Separate tools should also be used to transfer product from the container to the mixing surface. Although the mixture has a slight "gritty" texture, it has no effect on adhesion or workability on the surfaces to which it is applied. Exceptional item - I'm sure it'd work well for the other apps listed on the container.
After looking at a number of products (nearly all of which are available in the United Kingdom but not here) and speaking with customer service at Rutland, who informed me that they used to make a product like this for repairing bricks, I ordered PB Epoxy in two jars, which when combined yield 32 ounces of epoxy. br>br>In the photos, you can see how the seven or so bricks appeared before the repair, what tools I used, how the seven or so bricks appeared after the repair, and how the seven or so bricks appeared after painting. br>br>NOTES – I used it at 70 degrees Fahrenheit the first time and 85 degrees Fahrenheit the second. As a result, I chose the 70F time of day because it is the most convenient. This material is simple to mix, has a reasonable working time, and cures according to the manufacturer's instructions. Keep in mind that their various sizes are NOT the same product; they list them all on their website in a chart to demonstrate the strength of each sized product, but they are all different. I didn't use any kind of bonder before applying the epoxy. I used about 2/3 of the product and sanded it rough before spraying it with Krylon Red Oxide Primer after it dried. This method applies to crumbling bits of brick rather than concrete admixture;
-Steps
1 – Picked up the brick with a tap of light pressure.
2 - The bricks bere removed with a soft bristle brushbr>3 – th.
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