Clear Table Top Epoxy Resin That Self Levels, This is a 2 Gallon High Gloss (1 Gallon Resin + 1 Gallon Hardener) Kit That’s UV Resistant – It’s DIYER & Pro Preferred with Minimal Bubbles

With this product, I achieved absolutely PERFECT results for my countertop project. I am overjoyed by the outcome. I had just enough time to complete the task before the product set, and everything went smoothly. Having worked with Epoxy Resin before, there are a few things you need to know if you have never used it. In this post, I'll share with you all the tricks and tips I've collected for doing countertops since I've worked with a lot of resin and done a lot of research. I hope that they are helpful! It is CRUCIAL that the temperature be controlled. You MUST have a space of 75 square feet or more You run the risk of the resin not setting correctly for the first 24 hours if the temperature is 85 degrees. In an experiment, I tried to test this theory, and it didn't work. Despite how miserable it is to work in such a hot environment, you won't regret it when you finally complete the project. It's literally the worst thing in the world to lose resin off your project because you decided not to do it. You might imagine bubblegum that's runny, sticky, and sticky because you are trying to get it It DOES NOT work to clean up with water. I just wanted to let you know. You can easily remove it from your skin with alcohol if you rub it. There has been some reform, but not all. 2) Making sure the required amount of product is mixed for a reasonable amount of time and that it has been dumped and mixed again in a second container is essential. This step is not to be skipped. It's irritating and seems unnecessarily long, but if you want to succeed, you have to act. It will still work even if you're using an electric mixer, which, as a side note, produces a lot of bubbles. Using a paint mixing stick is your best bet if you want glass smooth. Make sure you scrape the sides and bottom of your bucket all the time so that no product remains undisturbed. Also, decide on a mixing container that doesn't have any corners. Mixing containers that are circular and not coated with wax are best. If you don't pour enough you're dragging the Epoxy across the surface and it won't cover evenly. If you pour more you'll have a better chance of covering the whole area. 4. Using a foam roller to help spread epoxy evenly absorbs considerable resin, but not as much as a sponge. For those who wish to do a lip or edge of their countertop, this is a good option. In most cases, you'll be able to get away with it. If I must use a plastic scraper, I use one from the paint department. I have found that to be pretty helpful as well! In addition, I did not have a lot of bubbles with this product, so I did not need a heat gun or torch very much. It is my preference to use a heat gun rather than a blowtorch since I believe that a heat gun does not get as hot as a blowtorch but pops the bubbles quite well and you are less likely to scorch your Epoxy. If you decide to mix paint into your resin, make sure the acrylic paint you use is acrylic. If you want to use spray paint, you can do so. This is a great resin to work with. Be careful not to let any metallic paint sit too long in the bucket if you do decide to use it. I let a bucket of resin with metallic spray paint mixed in sit for a little too long and it erupted into a sweltering environment and I started to melt the resin. This is just a heads up for you. Resin should not be allowed to sit in a small container for prolonged periods of time. 7) Make sure the surface is well prepared. After I sanded the laminate off my countertops, I painted the top with a water-based paint (just found a water-based paint from Lowe's). After letting that completely dry, I was happy with the results. Using two 2 gallon kits, I got a base coat, a second coat, and a final flood (top) coat, making a total of three coats. I just barely had enough space on my countertop, which is approximately 38 square feet. I suggest you get a little extra epoxy resin just to be safe if you have never used epoxy before. What a relief! Thanks so much, and I hope it helps someone! I wish you success!.

Adam Morrow

| Jan 23, 2021

It does not. I apologise in advance for the lengthy review I am going to write. As I was building a large bar in our basement, I used this product to coat 2 large bartops that I had built using oak and The surface of one sheet came out perfectly without any One I appreciate, but the other I don't. During the flood coat, the epoxy didn't properly dry, and the back of my hand was covered in sticky goo. However, for some time I believed it was ruined forever and I would have to rebuild the counter. Fortunately, I was able to save it (see below), but it had been ruined for some time. There is no way the thing can be sanded down when it's all gooey You should keep in mind that this is NOT like Epoxy glue, which is mixed in a large quantity and poured on top of a surface, is used for large projects. As it spreads, plastic paddles or foam brushes are used to sort of move it around. In any case, here are my tips You should check out the website and read the directions before ordering if you're unfamiliar with the procedure. A lot of items need to be ordered. You will need about one and a half of these including the sealer and flood coats. The amount of water per sf is 25 gallons. The less you do, the more you'll get into trouble. The result will end up being craters on the surface where it did not It's reasonable to expect to spend at least a few hundred dollars on your counter or table. If you screw up, you can expect to spend (

2) Follow the mixing instructions very closely. You will want the hardener to settle on top as a thin, clear layer as you mix. Ensure you are stirring the epoxy continuously as you push the thickener down into it. The first time I tried to review something, I got burned, as did a few other angry readers. During the review, one person used a cement paddle mixer. There is a good chance he/she didn't mix in the layer on the top properly. 1) You are using epoxy glue. 2. You are Denatured alcohol should be available to use in case of fire. Protect the affected area carefully. I think this is a good way to clean it. It is a chemical reaction that cures this stuff, not a "drying" of it. You won't have a tough time in 24 to 48 hrs if it's not hard. Despite the fact that it has been sticky for 10 years, this will still be the case. It will only be possible to fix this problem by recoating. The following is an example. 5) Worst case scenario is when the coating is used as a floodcoat while covering a large, valuable surface and it does not My experience was similar to this. As I read one of the one star reviews here, a $1000 piece of furniture was ruined, and mine was a very similar experience. There were honey puddles on the bartop, patches of cured honey in some places, and even a few fairly dry spots. From the beginning to the end. My favorite way to clean liquid areas is to use denatured alcohol and Alcohol was applied to the thicker, gummy areas, and a plastic scraper was used to remove them. Due to my fear of gouging the wood, I did not use metal. As I finished the project, the top layer was all one unruly surface that was fairly tacky and a little odd looking. A few of the edges of the scraped areas appeared abrupt and sharp. In order to smooth the transitions at these and other raised or disrupted regions, I used a heat gun. Luckily, it worked this time. I did another flood coat, and it was fine within a few minutes. Overall, I am pleased with the outcome. The surface looks like glass, and everyone is asking In my opinion, the mixing process is a little unforgiving, but if you follow the pro marine directions and do what I mentioned above, you should do just fine. A recoat is required if the original coating did not cure completely. The only solution is to fix the problem. The second experience I want to share with you is this Things like this become very expensive very fast. To cure it, you will need to buy large quantities and if it does not work, you will need.

Malaya Davis

| Nov 23, 2020

With the help of this product, I was able to create a bar top with a depth of more than It was used in conjunction with a metal tray. As I inserted rocks, leaves, leather, wood and small metal trinkets, I found a new way to make it look dynamic. A seal was applied to all biodegradable materials Super glue was used on items that were prone to floating. This is the first time I have used epoxy, so I don't have any experience with it. You will not be disappointed as long as you follow the directions and are patient with this product. Quite a bit of work went into the top. I used 2" masking tape to level the top where it shifted during installation and where it needed to be leveled above the metal tray. In the meantime, it kept the epoxy firmly in place. After it had dried, it released effortlessly. The inside area will need to be ventilated if you are going to use it indoors.

Charlie Pruitt

| Nov 14, 2020

In order to update our countertops, we have been using epoxy resin. We are so happy with the results, even though there is definitely a learning curve. Based on our experience with Stone Coat Countertops, we used the same techniques. A 2-bedroom apartment was purchased by us I am going to buy a gallon kit to finish our kitchen.

Delaney Sparks

| Jul 05, 2021