Siraya Tech Sculpt (1kg) - High Temp Resin for for Engineering, Industrial Use, Jewelry and Dental Application on DLP/LCD/SLA printers
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The answer is yes. By going to the Siraya Tech website and clicking Support in the upper right section, you can get the resin user manuals. A link to the MSDS for the product is available in the notes section of that document.
In general, this can withstand temperatures of up to 160C, depending on how the mold was processed. A 500F downpour is not going to work
Users have told us that SprintRay's Moonray works well with Ortho Clear setting
That is a hard question to answer. This works out to be 14s for Mars, so it should be lower for Mars Pro. The best way to get information about Sculpt is to join our user group on Facebook and ask fellow Sculpt users
Selected User Reviews For Siraya Tech Sculpt (1kg) - High Temp Resin for for Engineering, Industrial Use, Jewelry and Dental Application on DLP/LCD/SLA printers
The exposure settings I had been using were dialed in after I ran several print calibrating tests. that point on, I can say with confidence that the surface finishes and print tolerances are pretty much spot-on. In the photo I've uploaded, you see a couple of the injection molds I've made to create my own soft plastic pieces Artificial fishing baits are made out of plastic. The two prints I have are not complete, but this gives you an idea of what can be done with this In these molds, I have injected molten Plastisol at a temperature of well over 300 degrees Fahrenheit without suffering any damage. Injection molds should have some sort of outer support on the outside faces if you plan on printing them. As a result, warping due to thermal expansion or contraction is minimized Adding more buildings.
it for the primary purpose of making molds to cast urethane parts in, and it turns out that it does a good job. In addition, I have printed some tiny objects as well to see what they look like My printer and my computer I could do that. In addition to removing the support, the chair and cubes do not have any further post-processing. There is a 6mm cube in the large size. In the end, the resin prints turned out to be slightly oversize, with a cube that ended up being 6 inches. There are no consistent differences in the 18mm. A Anycubic Photon is used to print this. A first layer should be exposed for 100 seconds and the second layer for 15 seconds. The results from its use have been very impressive for me. *UPDATE I continue to use it. A great deal of detail. The resin is excellent no matter what the price is, but at this price it is a STEAL.
They are both wonderful products. I have Sculpt and Blu. Detail is very well captured in Sculpt because of its opaque properties. A lot easier to print with than most opaque resins, and less brittle than most opaque resins. I use it both on my Moai and my Since I have experience in resin printing for more than 4 years and have tried out 6 types of printing In comparison to other 3rd party resins, Siraya resins are the most affordable and the best quality in terms of price. My SLA and LED printers work equally well with Siraya's resins. I will only use them from now on. I found it to be very convenient and easy.
It's nice to have resin like this. I really like how the prints turned out. This resin prints slightly oversize, as is the case with most photopolymers. As of now, I have not had a chance to test the resin's heat resistance. Rook is printed at 30C with a layer height of 50 microns and a long cycle time of 15 seconds per layer. As with the AmeraLabs test piece, this was also printed at 50 microns, but the exposure time per layer was 18 seconds. In addition to 30-degree temperatures, there were also strong winds. This print driver is recommended for printers that print in high volume, like the Phrozen Shuffle series.
Although this resin was designed for DLP/LCD printers, I'm using it with an SLA printer at the moment. As the resin is more fluid than standard SLA resins, you will need to adjust your laser power as a result. Additionally, I use the FEP Vat System rather than the PDMS system I had previously. The resin, as a whole, has proved easy to work with for prototyping purposes and for The ability to print details very well is one of its major benefits. With other resins, I would lose the fine details on all the models that I've thrown at it because of the small scale I print on with it. With isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol, followed by a quick wash in dawn dish soap and warm water, it cleans up well. In addition to being fast, the postcure tends to sand and paint easily. There are a few cons to it I use this resin more than I normally do. However, it stinks more than the other resins I normally use. It is brittle, but not by much, but not by far.
I would choose this mold first in the future The process of resin production. High-level transactions are handled by it It can withstand very high temperatures. The color is perfect for me.
As a whole, it is a very There is no such thing as a perfect resin. I like how it gives perfect detail levels, is relatively fast, and creates a nice overall look to unpainted objects. It is however a little more brittle than most resins, so if you drop the part you are printed with, small pieces will break That's why I'm on the fence about it it's still really nice. To make it a bit less brittle, it may be best mixed with a more "soft" resin. But it has a high level of detail.
Unlike maple syrup, it is very thick and I am unable to get any prints to completely cure. Each of them has a slightly tacky feel to it. Following the recommendations was also done. After 99% IPA and water washes, rinse thoroughly with It was my hope that it would be better than Blu it turned out to be awful.
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