Siraya Tech Build (1kg) - High Resolution Non-Brittle Tappable Engineering 3D Printing Resin (Sonic Grey)
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Definitely a good idea, we will research this option and determine how to make it most effective. The packaging process is a major bottleneck in the production process
It is not the same exposure on all mono LCDs. Starting with 2s for 50um will be a good place to start and you can adjust as necessary
In terms of Shore D 85, the tensile strength is 50MPa, Young's modulus is 1050MPa, and the elongation at break is
There is a higher resolution in this build, and it is easier to use It is more difficult to do Blu.
Selected User Reviews For Siraya Tech Build (1kg) - High Resolution Non-Brittle Tappable Engineering 3D Printing Resin (Sonic Grey)
Whenever I have used siraya tech resins, they have always worked Since I ran out of siraya tech fast resin, I tried anycubic resin, but it had a lot of issues printing and was very fragile. The siraya tech fast resin and their build resin are both more durable than most other resins on the market. I have printed some functional parts for my longer lk4 pro fdm printer, as you can see in the pictures. Because the resin is a dusky translucent tone, when thin parts are used, the color adds a unique appearance. In this case, the solid parts are very black and have a glassy quality. This resin is advertised by Siraya Tech as being tapable and it I had to drill and tap a number of fan shrouds and air ducts that I resin printed for my filament printer. I am happy with how everything went. In addition to its toughness and overall strength, this resin has a good processing consistency. Models and functional parts can be made with this resin very well. Each of the resin prints shown was printed on my 10 in long orange paper. Five (5) mm layers and a ten (10) Each layer should be cured for five seconds. Approximately 60 seconds on each layer of the bottom layer. The date of the next revision is January 12, 2020 *I have since added several models of mandolorians, including a hollow bust and a full figurine. I have also printed an xbox series x battery cover for a friend as well as some part for my reloading table with this resin. I still use it when I need it The resin will be used all over.
This is okay for minis, but not as good as a mix of blue plus fast. It might also have the worst smell I have ever experienced from any resin. There is a strong smell of alcohol mixed with shoe polish. This is not as strong as BLU, and when it breaks, it will shatter more easily and cause more damage (almost shards landed in my eye, I'm glad I was wearing protective eyewear). There was less dimensional accuracy than other resins I tried, then again, it could be because the settings weren't exactly dialed in. Still, it shouldn't be so tricky. Likewise, it doesn't work well with mono screen printers, so if you have an Epax x10 or Elegoo Saturn, you should be careful. In that case, it is recommended that you use Epax hard resin or Sculpt hard resin. The following three points are positive I am surprised at its print speed and its ability to The resin is also less sensitive to temperature changes than others in the Siraya family. There is no need to mix with anything else to make it stronger. Despite my overall dissatisfaction, I don't think it's bad. There are probably other Siraya (or other brand) resins that can cover most applications better than this one, especially in case you're open to mixing Furthermore, I believe the smell of this resin will be a big turn off to.
It's stupid to use resin like this. This unit can produce stunning details on the side opposite the build plate. All of the garbage on the plate facing side, however, is edible. Several options were tried, including new FEP settings, wide exposure times, layers with different thicknesses, different retraction speeds, etc. However, no clear image emerged with the required level of negative angle detail. We switched back to EPAX hard resin, and it produced the exact same file that came out only semi-hard The Build Resin printer printed flawlessly, like so good it looks like a cast resin part because of all the troubleshooting and tuning I'd done trying to make it There is one thing it does well, printing objects directly onto the build plate, such as miniature bases. This works around the negative angle issue and yields ridiculously Upon bouncing it repeatedly (40mm base), I can throw it full force on a marble floor and it will bounce about 4 feet into the air without breaking. The single best resin for miniatures is Siraya - make it opaque instead of clear, reduce the photoinitiators to make it a slow resin, and it will make a huge difference in the final results. Each print is printed on an Epax Hard with a Sonic Mini that pumps out print after print with insane detail on every face.
My experience with this resin is that it accepts threads very well whether they are created using an actual tap (preferred) or self-threading technique Screw for tapping. The first print I made (an engine bay for a 1/16 scale truck) using the same settings I use on almost all resins turned out so well, I ordered a second bottle, since I know I'm going to use Quite impressed with that. And as previously noted, the color is more of a blue/purple translucent, becoming darker as the piece gets thicker. As most of my prints end up painted, I am less concerned about its appearance, as I paint them, but I am more concerned about its durability, which is far It's a pleasure doing business with Siraya Tech!.
It has been my experience that Fast Black is the strongest of all the black resins. I think the build is just as strong and tough, but with an extra level of One of the best black resins you can get is this. The black pigment is not solid, but I add 4 drops of Smooth On "So Smooth" black pigment per 1 kg, and this almost turns it into solid black pigment. The exposure is then extended by a few seconds.
Here's the latest I used my new Creality Halot to print the following Printer from the sky. The old Photon gave significantly better results than the new one. ELEGOO ABS - As far as I'm concerned, Black is my go-to An engineering print is made by molding resin. Siraya is the drug I'd like to try. I set my Photon up according to the online settings. Attempting the same support and orientation with which I had success with other resins led to a continuous series of failures. It's a little disappointing.
A resin like this is very appealing to me. was easy to print (I used the default settings and the Anycubic resin worked just There is no possibility of it being In the end, I used a pair of channel locks on each end to break a 6mm thick, 3 inch long sample. A translucent black is used here instead of a solid If you want to paint it, you can always do The resin inside the Anycubic Photon S is far superior to the resin that comes with it.
Unfortunately, "Smoky Black" looks purple under UV light, as can be seen with an angled piece of light. My personal preference would be to buy lots of Clear Build, but I could do without many Dark Purple packs.