Siraya Tech Blu (1kg) - Strong and Precise High Resolution 3D Printing Resin (Clear V2)
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The Blu light has a wavelength of 405nm, so it will cure. Blu was developed using Photon as a benchmark, which is why many Blu users are featured on Photon community pages. You can also find Blu user guides on our website, which discuss how to process the resin and how to clean and cure it after application.
What you need to know is exactly what you want to do. There is no perfect resin and you pick resin not just based on price, but also based on what it is designed to do. A good UV resin under $100, Blu has good resolution, a bit of flexibility, and is one of the toughest UV resins on the market. This model prints very accurately, which makes it ideal for print jobs that require strength and accuracy, like mechanical parts. The Sculpt resin has a high temperature resistance and high hardness for excellent resolution, however, it is brittle compared to the Blu resin. For model makers who need a resin for showing off their designs or making molds, this resin is the best choice. As a result, it is very popular with digital sculptors (therefore the name) and also easy to post-process like sanding and cleaning. The two resins that we have developed have different applications, as you can see. Adding flex100 to Blu would probably not weaken it as much, but if Blu is already strong, adding flex100 may make it weaker.
A little over 1 l
If you are looking for a specific level of resolution, it can be difficult to determine. Users of our mini printers print straight Blu and prime. Others print Sculpt + Blu with increased resolution and dark grey color for a more realistic print while still remaining non-reflective. Brittle, thank you for the Blu part. A common mix is around 70% sculpt,
Selected User Reviews For Siraya Tech Blu (1kg) - Strong and Precise High Resolution 3D Printing Resin (Clear V2)
The goal of my company is to develop and manufacture functional components that are high-quality The fittings are strong and precise. Assembled parts need to be reassembled. As I use a Photon printer, I've been gauging resins to see which ones print true to size. Blu prints slightly smaller than what I'm used to. The difference must be 1mm or better - no manual adjustment is necessary From my experience, this resin is the best I have ever tested. The viscosity of this resin is higher than that of most LCD resins, so it is best to heat the printer to 30 degrees Celsius. The way to do this is to use a temperature controller and then plug in a space heater (it should be under 1,000 watts) or 2 250-watt lights An IR heat source of one watt A lamp. Blu resin is not the only kind of resin I would do this for Even so, I would only heat the typical resin to 25 degrees Celsius. It is a practice used by professional printers to control the temperature, so if you wish to get the best results, you should control the temperature of your Imagine yourself standing in a dark room - there is an old-fashioned feel about it. It was necessary to have certain chemicals at a specific temperature in order to get It is recommended to expose for 12 seconds at 50 micron layers if the temperature is 25°C or higher The temperature will be 30C if you have a Photon printer. You might want to use 10-10-10 if you have a Phrozen, Zortrax or one that has more than 30 watts of UV It is best to do the resin build in seconds. Since the resin sticks very well to the Photon build platform, I only did four base layers of 20-mm resin. Take 30 seconds to process. Because it sticks so well, if you don't use a raft with a beveled bottom edge, it's hard to get it off. In most software, you can choose to do that. It has a mild odor, like citrus with notes of wood. Since it is translucent, I can inspect the inside of a highly deteriorated piece for damage In case of strong parts, I can also cure the stressed part all the way through. The Form-C resin is $150 and up, which is comparable with comparable resins I am delighted that the price is comparable to ordinary resin, which I would used in my 2 printer.
Despite shaking my resin, storing it at 78 degrees F at home, and printing ZERO failures (150+ minis) for months, I still had to shake my resin after each use. During the attempt to print an entire bottle (half of the order, or roughly 27 USD), all but 2 prints failed While it does print the supports, it cannot print the model due to the resin being so sticky/tacky. used all the settings options in the Google sheets from different sources including the ones I was told worked for them (they had a heater). I've consulted other users on reddit about printing the same model as I was. Successful prints of the two designs. The prints were being baby-sat over 3 hours as I sat with a blow dryer continuously on and off for 15 minutes on and off. One time I had to replace my FEP because the resin stuck to it so strongly that, when I attempted to clean it up, the film ripped. itself is amazing when it prints, and you'd think it'd be my default resin from here on out would it not be awful to work with? It is a known fact that heating the enclosure reduces the lifespan of the LCD screen as well as all the electronics in the printer. It also makes the already unpleasant resin even yuckier. Then I suggest you move on to something that works at room temperature. Unless you plan to exhaust ALL exhaust ports outdoors, install a heater and shorten the life of your printer, and want several torn FEP films, I suggest you change.
As the only resin that prints a wall thickness on a part that is equal to or slightly smaller than the drawing, this resin is unique. I have seen a print on every other resin I have seen. A thickness of 1mm or less As a result of light scattering within the resin, 2mm of the resin is too thick. The outcome of this is that this resin is very good for structural parts. Even though it is still a DLP resin, it is stronger than most others. Negative details are handled very well by this method. Details that are very small, however, may get lost in the resin since the resin tends to underprint those tiny details. In my knowledge, the resin doesn't have any competitors at the present time, so this resin is not a competitor. Adding a part to your design, printing it, and installing it is as simple as that. If you want to make oversized prints, you don't need to shrink the file in your CAD program first. Note the following In order to print this resin at 28 degrees, it needs to be heated up to 170 degrees A temperature of 30°. Viscous is the best way to describe it.
I believe this is one of the best resins I have ever worked with. It is not only about the 3D printer machine when you are printing with resin, but it is also very important to select the right resin for your application. Each resin has different properties and settings, so it is important to know what these are before working with it. In some cases, you can use the same settings regardless of the kind of resin you use, but that doesn't mean that it will work with every type of Comparing this resin to other resin for DLP, LCD 3D printers, it is not so brittle and has a great strength and resistance to impact.
I dropped it from 1 meter, 1 foot onto a solid surface at home. This roof was built for indoor use, and it resisted well, had some small scratches, but no cracks or other issues. While testing other resin, I found some parts of my piece broke or cracked even after it was felt on my carpet. In my work, I perform strength tests on some pieces of material, making them subjected to constant movements as they are used to pick and place components on an electronic board, in a production line, and the results were good the material held surprisingly well and did not deflect at all. Please consider the following suggestions My suggestion if you live in a cold place is to warm your resin. If you don't have the means to warm your resin, you can try to heat your build platform, using a hair dryer. The pictures provide a good picture of the finish, which is absolutely beautiful. I would be happy to answer your questions about this product if you have any.
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