Wolverine Titan 8-in-1 20MP High Resolution Film to Digital Converter with 4.3" Screen and HDMI Output, Worldwide Voltage 110V/240V AC Adapter & 32GB SD Card (Bundle) (Yellow)

5 or 1. 0 stops, maybe a color find tune once or twice, and never the sharpening feature because it's too extreme), and off you go. The most difficult problem you'll face is dealing with the various styles or methods of the past, in which the negatives were either standalone (110 and 135 mm were the ones I did), which is the best, taped on one side to paper, which is a royal pain to remove cleanly, or held in individual plastic sleeves, which is nice and clean but takes longer to get in and out. br>br>The machine is a simple electronic device. You can't add a date or time stamp to the digital image you've created. There is no clock on the PCB that could be used to enable this feature through the menu system. You will also get dust into the lamp projector, so use the very nice cleaning brush that comes with the unit if you notice fibers/flecks in the last few images you scanned. Simply remove the negative film adapter and wipe the lamp surface with the static/microfiber brush. It's LED, I believe, with a color temperature of 6500K, so it doesn't generate much heat. br>br>Make sure you follow the SD card's specifications. A "free" upgrade to 64GB as a high-speed (SCXC) micro card with adapter was provided by our seller. The Wolverine manual (that is, the book) does not recommend any of them. 32GB, high-speed (stay with SD or SDHC), and micro. Thankfully, I had an SDHC 16GB card from my camera, which worked perfectly; however, don't risk bricking this device because SDHC 16GB cards are becoming increasingly scarce. There are plenty available; borrow one from a friend if necessary, but a 16GB card can store over 2500 images at a time. You'll be fine, and in between batches, I copied and erased my 16GB card (see below). br>br>Use the non-resettable counter to keep track of your images by date. It will begin at 0000 and continue in a serial fashion until it reaches 9999, at which point it will restart (I believe). (Remember, I finished with a score of 6661. ) br>br>Adapters work fine, but you'll have to deal with the curl of your negatives and the odd one that got bent in the envelope. br>br>At the end of the day, if you want to get your old negative film images as 4 MB - 6 MB (i. If you value your digital positive images beyond digital archiving like me, today's modern photo editing software can handle dust/fiber, color correction, minor sharpening, and so on. I'll probably tweak a few hundred "keepers," but everything is now digitally stored and backed up. Up twice, and ready to be forgotten on the hard drive (except for the few hundred I fine-tuned and saved in a digital album). br>br>Instead of using the very limited internal memory, I always used the SD card. When I first started Wolverine, I used the "Delete All" command to format it. I connected the device to my MacBook Pro's USB port and scanned a year's worth of photos. 500 +/- images, kept track of the serial image numbers by month/year on a post-it note, and then turned off the unit, extracted the SD card, and popped it into my MacBook Pro reader slot (the card was read fine using macOS High Sierra). I copied the image series groups into YYMM folders on my hard drive (many times), and then duplicated that structure onto an external and another 128GB thumb drive to satisfy my paranoia about losing hours and hours of tedious work! Finally, because digital files cannot be date/time stamped, invest in third-party software to add metadata, such as true date/time, GPS, copyright, and other information, before archiving your new digital positives in your computer's photo app. Based on your metadata, the photo app will be able to understand the chronology and collection aspects of your photos. I'm using macOS, so MetaImage from the Mac App Store is the best option; I tried Photo EXIF Editor, but it had too many issues. (Forget about the ratings and counts. ).

Gianna Houston

| Dec 30, 2021

If you're over a certain age, you probably have a box full of old negatives/slides for photos from your early years, and you've realized that while you can print those photos and put them in a photo book, that's really old school, daddy-style photography. The main issue is that you won't be able to share that photo book easily. Sure, you can show off your photos and stories to your friends and neighbors when they ask, "oh, what's in THAT book over there?" "However, how many "likes" can you get in this manner? What is the best way to contact your Aunt Debbie? who you haven't seen in a long time- to ooh and aah over photos of you as a ram? As long as your photos are still on negatives and prints, the answer is yes. You are unable to do so. br>br>However, a problem has arisen, and it is now. The issue has been resolved. To convert those negatives to digital photos, you'll need a slide scanner, which you can use every Throw Back Thursday until the cows come home. Scanning slides isn't a new technology. However, until recently, they were either far too expensive or far too ineffective to be of much use. Then came a slew of lower-cost scanners. The Wolverine line represents the usable low-cost end of the market. br>br>All slide scanners are essentially the same: You place a slide in front of the light source and use a "CCD" (the same photo capture technology used in digital cameras) to capture the projected backlit image. The following are the main distinctions between these scanners: A) How sophisticated and automated the mechanism for feeding the negatives/slides is; B) What is the purity of the light source? C) How good is the CCD detector, and D) How good are automated software options for image cleaning? br>br>Here is the Wolverine scanner: Let's not kid ourselves, let's be honest. In all of these areas, it is only adequate. However, the whole is greater than the sum of its parts, and as a whole, it's a perfectly usable and low-cost solution. It does, however, have some limitations. The low-end CCD detector, in particular, produces digital photos that are more than adequate for things like posting to Facebook or Snapchat, and probably for 4x6" prints, but aren't going to produce satisfactory 8x10 resolution blowups. If you examine the digitized photos at a pixel level, you'll notice that they're very noisy. They were captured at a resolution of 5472x3648. However, they look great when viewed in full screen mode on a digital camera or on a monitor with a 1920x1200 resolution. So be aware of what to expect when you arrive. This is not the device for you if you need high-resolution images that can be blown up. To progress to the next level, you must spend 2x or more. br>br>Aside from the noise in the captures, I noticed that many digitized photos had a blue cast to them. The remainder of the colors were vibrant and true after this was removed using digital editing software. br>br>In the case of 135 slide negatives, feeding the negatives is accomplished by pushing the negative through a guide. Slides with some warp (typical of slides stored for years) required a little jiggling to get the slide strip to push through to the other side. Beyond that, lining up each picture on a slide strip in the LCD viewer, pressing the two buttons required to capture the image, and moving on to the next picture was trivially easy. In approximately 2. I was able to digitize approximately 400 slides in 5 hours. The process is very quick once you get the hang of it. br>br>The unit only has a small amount of internal memory. Approximately 20 slides can be digitized with this amount. The bundle includes a low-end Sandisk 32GB external SD memory card (the largest officially supported size), which can hold around 7500 digitized images. If you don't want the memory card that comes with the scanner, go here:  .

Lyric Brennan

| Sep 29, 2021

This device was only delivered to me a couple of days ago. So far, I've had a bit of a mixed bag of experiences. 1) The device cropped the slide edges more than I would have liked (but I suppose it's better than a manual clean-up). 2) it wouldn't accept some of my thicker slide casings (the Wolverine website suggests shaveing off some of the plastic guide-rails with a hobby knife?) 3) the color processing was strange. Presentation slides with white text on a blue background were re-created with yellow text on a gray background. I tweaked the exposure and RGB settings until I got a good match for the original. I also have access to an Ion Omni Scan (which I believe is the same as an older Jumbl model), and it had the same issue. The processor for all of these competing products must be the same. The color in most of the landscape and interior photos appeared to be accurate when using the default settings. In my case, the device's focus and resolution appear to be limited by the original slide, rather than the device itself, and the convenience of using this device over a scanning table on a flat bed scanner is greatly preferred.

Poppy Nicholson

| Jan 18, 2021

They look fantastic for photos taken decades ago, and I feel like a pro! Thank you so much for your money well spent!.

Cannon Bryant

| Apr 13, 2021