TP-Link Litewave 5 Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch | Desktop Ethernet Splitter | Plastic Case | Unshielded Network Switch | Plug & Play | Fanless Quiet | Unmanaged (LS1005G)
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People frequently mix up routers and switches; a router has brains; it logs in to your service provider and grants you access to their internet while also controlling the IP addresses of your home network. (DHCP Server, which actually routes traffic for your home network) Because most routers come with a built-in four-port switch, most people mistakenly think of them as routers. That's not the case. Your router has a built-in switch. This device is simply a switch that will work in conjunction with your router to assign IP addresses to each port/device; it will NOT slow down your throughput, but keep in mind that your service provider can only provide you with a certain amount of bandwidth. So, if you only have a 100mb internet connection, you can only download 100mb at a time. So, if you have two devices downloading at the same time, each of them will only get about 50 megabytes. That said, the majority of the time, the internet traffic you use does not interfere with each other, and you will not notice any differences. One thing to keep in mind is that you'll need cat5e or cat6 Ethernet cables to get the most out of this switch, or any router/switch. Cat5e travels at the same speed as cat6 but over shorter distances. Use the 6 if you need to travel a long distance, but most home networks don't need it. Still, I'd go with 6 to avoid the need for future cable upgrades if they're difficult to reach, and in this day and age of HD TV and video sharing, I'd rather over-build than under-build. build.
I got about 10 mbit speed to any device plugged into any other port when I connected the router to port 1, but I got 100 mbit when I connected the router to port 5 as the instructions indicated. speedtest.net was used to confirm this.
It enables you to connect your router to a greater number of devices. This is not a router replacement. br>At my entertainment center, I have this switch. My Blu- The switch is connected to a Blu-ray player, an Xbox 360, and an external hard drive. I then connect this switch to my router via a cable. The wired connection, in my opinion, is both faster and more reliable. br>It took me longer to type this response than to connect it. All you have to do now is plug in your devices and the power cord.
he TL- Link Aggregation is supported by the SG108E. Please see our official website for the User Guide for more information on how to use this feature.br>br>Regards,br>TP- Help with Links
Selected User Reviews For TP-Link Litewave 5 Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch | Desktop Ethernet Splitter | Plastic Case | Unshielded Network Switch | Plug & Play | Fanless Quiet | Unmanaged (LS1005G)
I used my AT to power the switch because it can be powered from a USB port. The USB port on my T modem worked fine; I had two of the five ports connected to Gigabit devices, which worked perfectly. I was given the entire 1 Gigabit of bandwidth. When I connected a third-gigabit device, it showed that it was connected at 1 Gbps but that the speed would be limited to 100 Mbps. After trying a variety of cables and other options, I realized it wasn't getting enough power, so I used the adapter that came with it to power it up, and bam! All ports began to operate at 1 Gbps; ) I'm sharing it in the hopes of preventing others from making the same mistake I did. br>br>If you give it enough power, a great switch can work wonders!.
Advertising that is deceptive. Despite the fact that it claims to provide a gigabit connection, I am only getting 100mbps. When I connect directly to my router, I get 950mbps; however, when I use this 5-year-old router, I get only 450mbps. I would not have bought the unit if I had known that the port device would limit me to 100 Mbps. Very dissatisfied with the purchase; it was a waste of money.
First and foremost, BE SURE YOU ARE ACTUALLY USING A GIGABIT SWITCH BEFORE I SAY ANYTHING. I understand that they sell a "fast ethernet" switch, which is extremely outdated nowadays and only works if you have dialup internet, which you most likely don't if you're shopping for a switch. br>br>I mean, it's pretty self-explanatory: connect it to an ACTIVE ROUTER that has either assigned static IPs to the end devices or has DHCP enabled; it doesn't assign anything. Some users gave it a one-star rating because they used it to connect other devices to a modem. The majority of modems are bridge adapters that connect a cable provider's coaxial cable to a router. Some companies, such as Comcast, sell dual-purpose modem routers, but the bottom line is that you need a switch to add connections to a router that assigns IPs, not to connect from a raw modem signal to multiple devices with no assigned IPs. I thought this was self-evident given that network switches are primarily purchased by tech-savvy individuals, but alas, it bears repeating. br>br>I am writing this review after purchasing the 5 port switch, but because I have multiple devices and game systems in the vicinity on an upstairs floor, I am seeing the need to upgrade to an 8port switch to extend connectivity. I would avoid using crossing switches (one switch connected to another for more ports) and instead recommend purchasing a larger port unit. Unless bandwidth is managed through a web portal, which these are not, crossing switches tends to result in mismanaged bandwidth. Because of the design and history I have with Netgear, I chose these over the Netgear ones. br>br>Again, the main issue is that people aren't aware that they didn't buy a gigabit switch. There's a reason why the fast ethernet version is so cheap. It's a relic at this point, and the savings over a full gigabit switch aren't worth it.
It worked perfectly once I figured out how to log in. I'm very pleased. To gain access, you must first isolate your switch by unplugging it from the router. br>2) Assign a static IP address of 192 to your computer. 168 100 and 255 are the subnet addresses. 255 255 br>3) Next, connect your computer to one of the switch's ports and dial 192. 168 1 in your browser's address fieldbr>4) UserID and Password are Admin and Adminbr>Once you're in, you can change the unit's Username, password, IP address, and subnet to whatever you want. br>Plug the switch back into the router, switch your computer back to DHCP, and you're good to go.
I bought four of these about eight months ago to use around the house where I needed to connect devices via Ethernet, and they've done a fantastic job. I recently added a Fire TV to one of the TVs in the house and wanted to connect it to Ethernet, but my router near the TV had no available ports. I didn't think twice about buying another one of these Gigabit switches. It is simple to set up and requires no configuration. Now my Fire TV has access to the full speed of my internet service. br>br>I should mention that the switch I received differs slightly from the one pictured on the Amazon product page, as well as the other four I had previously purchased. For power, there is only one light on the front of the unit currently being shipped by Amazon. Each LAN port's light has been relocated to the back, just above where the Ethernet cable plugs into the port. This switch still has the same model number as before, but it is now version 8. Version 7 of this switch is depicted in the photos with the port lights on the front of the unit. Regardless of which version you have, the unit's performance remains excellent, and it is highly recommended if you require additional Ethernet ports in your home.
Update: The TL- The SG1008D that was shipped was not the same as the one that was described: The speed indicators shown on the front of the unit are not present; The box comes with a two-year warranty. Two product descriptors show years rather than lifetime. I'm eager to put the unit to the test and see if it works as advertised and corrects the previously incorrect information. It's a stylish and light-weight unit. Within 30 days, I will reply to this comment and share my thoughts on the product. Update: The unit was returned for the reasons stated above, but I also discovered that when two devices required bandwidth, the transfer speeds dropped disproportionately (e. g. 175 Mbps for one device, less than 100 Mbps for both devices).
This was part of a gold box deal. What you pay for is exactly what you get. For about a week and a half, it worked perfectly. After extensive troubleshooting and resetting routers over and over, I returned home to find nothing working. When I turned off this switch, everything went back to normal. I fired up the 4 port netgear it replaces and everything worked fine, so I connected this one back up and boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, boom, With it, I threw it in the trash.
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